Not hearing fuel pump coming on. Checked relay, ok, Have power (using test light) to far right (standing behind car) wire (there are 5 wires counting the ground). I think I should have power to the white/blue stripe wire (second from left). I also checked the fuse on the block right by the battery, it looks ok. Is there another fuse under the dash I might be missing? Thanks,

how about a test for failed fuel pump or damaged wiring to fuel pump

why not post the codes. ???
usa car 96, has many codes, not one, useless or not useful.
(gas cap loose excepted)
Does all lights on car work and radio, bright head lights.?
cranks robustly, ?
spark good,? ECU cuts fuel any time one of 3 park failures, fail.?
so, spark is next.
then if spark is ok then we try test fuel. (spray )0if that fails, cam belt fell off or lost time on cam, every 60k happens.(spec)

if runs and sounds ok on test fuel, good.
crank engine for 5 full seconds, release key does the scan tool show errors. NOW? it will if those 3 spark things above, are failing.
even a dead tacho line can kill all injections.
or if TPS outputpin stuck at 5v due to ground wire to it cut,at TPS,

ok now the relay.
ECU does ground the coil (see schematic?)
but only for 3 seconds, keyon, (repeats key on).
then turns off (all G16s 91+ do that 3 sec rule.)
then the relay closes, cranking full time. look now, 96 relay is on the heater box, behind the glove box, the pink wires are BINGO FUEL.

if that works 12v on pinkk, then check fuel pressure
is car a 2 door? if 2doors, the pit behind left rear tail light
see g402 ground that is pump ground and loves to rust there.(kills pump dead)
as does the pink wires there (rust), (connectors)
see 96 ecu schematic here.

http://www.fixkick.com/schematics-run.html

read the pump page.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/pump.html#pumptests
got 34psi

see how to fix and test pump page
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/PUMP/dead-pump.html

Check the fuel pump relay. As you are cranking the engine, you should hear a whinny sound of fuel being pumped into the injectors. Interval would be about 5 seconds. If you don't hear this sound, relay is shot. You can try swapping the relay of the same number with another function to try to start normally.

the fuel pump fuse is in the fuse panel,using a test light with key on check all the fuses.you say you have checked the wiring so i am assuming you have checked powers and grounds at the pump on the pump wires and not the fuel gauge wires.its possible that you have a bad pump,and yes you can get a bad new pump.was the fuel pump the original problem or did you just start replacing parts without testing.

the oil pressure sensor has a 3rd wire which feeds to the fuel pump .. If you turn the ignition key on and do not hear the fuel pump running for 5 seconds, replace that oil pressure sensor. That sensor does turn the fuel pump circuit off once oil pressure is acheive and the the computer switches the fuel pum relay on to take over running the fuel pump

O.K. this is going to be long but stick with me.
The gray wire that goes to the plug at the sending unit is the one to run the pump. We need to get power to this wire. This wire runs to the fuel pump relay. The relay has 4 pins one is the gray wire-one is the 15 amp power for the pump that has battery voltage with the key in the run and start position. one is ground and one is the relay trigger from the ecm. Pull the relay and look real close on the bottom side of it by the pins there will be numbers 30,85,86,87. 85 and 86 control the relay 30 is the power from the fuse and 87 is the gray wire going to your fuel pump. If you use a test light and see if it lights up between pin 85 and 86 when you first turn on the key (should come on for 5 seconds or so). If not we have a problem on the computer side. If so go to #2 below. If not ground test light and try 85 then 86 if it lights up on one of them when you first turn on key the other post (of 85 or 86) has a bad ground.
#2 So we now know the relay circuit is good Turn key on and check for voltage between post 30 and ground. if there is voltage then run a jumper wire from battery voltage through a 15 amp fuse to post 87 if the pump comes on its the relay if it stays off then there is a open in the circuit from the relay to the pump. don't forget to check for a good connection where the wires go into the plastic on the top of the sending unit. reply if I typed to fast and I can walk you through any step you have problems with.
Good Luck and God Bless

1.Disconnect the battery
2.Replace the fuel pump relay
3.Turn key to on position
4.Connect battery
5.Wait one minute
6. Start the car and hope for the best. Good luck
**Ps make sure your gas tank is topped off i did this after reading numerous post
This worked for me, as far as the "crank but wont start problem" that everyone has been having.

most of fuel pumps were in tank, wire corrodes is harness under right front seat floor pan to tank
if fuel pump buzz is heard and car runs and when it doesnt run you cant hear the fuel pump try
turn ignition off wait 10 seconds
turn ignition to on position to (prime or hear pump buzz)
no buzz fuel pump not working check fuel pump relay(swap with another) and try again?
you could use test light to pump wiring and make sure your getting power to pump on this prime test no power relay or wiring problem.
power at pump, but no buzz fuel pump faulty

I checked all of the fuseable links and they were all good. Next I decided to check all the power wires to the ECM and also the grounds from a wiring diagram because the Mil is controlled by the ecm and the bulb was good. The ecm is located behind the glove box. Bingo, the orange wire was only reading 3-5 volts at the ECM, but 12.5 volts after the fuseable link at the underhood fuse block (passenger side firewall). I ran a temp wire directly from after the fuseable link to the orange wire at the ecm and the ecm turned back on and the Mil or "check engine soon" light came on too. The truck started up and has never run smoother.

Note that at first the truck just stalled out and I could restart it right away with no error codes. Eventually the stalling became more frequent with longer reset times required. Once it threw a "code 54" and I thought it was fuel related as each time the gas stopped and I could still start the truck with gas poured into the TB. Ignition ok. My fuel pump turned on and ran if I tested it. I even checked the pressure regulator and the fuel filter to no avail.The orange wire that powers up the ecm is technically part or the fuel pump relay circuit as it also feeds the fuel pump relay 12.5 volts all the time. The thin orange wire from the fuse block is joined to two other thin orange wires in the large group of wires that heads to the ecm along the firewall behind the engine. I had to dig it out of the many wires to find it and remove a lot of tape. It is amazing to me that this one little orange wire could cause so much grief and be so hard to track down. I could not have afforded to take this problem to the Dealer.

check your fuses under the dash and under the hood