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Posted on Aug 03, 2017

Petrol, 2.0L passat SE 2002 stalls when up to temp at any speed, difficult to start afterwards codes 18010, 16705 otherwise perfect, what is wrong with it?125k miles, had 2 cam belt kit changes, water pumps and thermostats, head gasket, oil cooler, throttle body clean and new seal. New vac pipes, oil breather tubes and 'stub', air filter and yet to do most upto date oil filter and oil change.

5 Related Answers

emissionwiz

Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 01, 2008

SOURCE: Engine warning light and engine vibration 2002 VW Passat

The flashing is telling you that the engine is mis-firing, the dealer will run a test to determine the cylinder that is mis-firing, chances are it is something simple

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Bill Hackett

  • 383 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 21, 2009

SOURCE: TIming Belt 2000 VW Jetta GLS 1.8T

lrb2199: What this shop has suggested in terms of replacement is pretty much the norm.
1st, if the timing belt lets go or if it jumps time you are going to be hocking the kids to pay for the repairs.
You are looking at a Diesel engine which gets a little on the toasty side to begin with. The motor oil sometimes, depending on the selection may not be too kind on the oil seals.
When you are replacing the timing belt, there is not much more effort involved to remove the front crank and cam seals and replace them with new ones because you are right there! It's a matter of sliding a gear off or unbolting a gear to gain access to a seal.
As for the Water pump, Water pumps don't last for ever and will start to seep through what is referred to as the "WEEP" hole.
If the seal fails, antifreeze will leak onto the timing belt. Antifreeze is a very slippery substance and can potentially cause the engine to jump time. So, you have a water pump that is 9 years old and HOW MANY MILES ON IT? Personally, I would suggest putting another one on. Thermostats also have a limited service life. The part is not that expensive and with the repairs being what they are, often shops throw the labor in on replacing some parts such as thermostats if they are not a big deal. Main drive belts, again, it is a wear item, it could be well worn, possibly may have another 5,000 miles on it, but you have the opportunity to have a new one installed for just the cost of the part rather than pay labor 6 months down the road. The valve cover has to be removed to access the timing belt on some engines because of the way they are configured. Again, the part may not be that expensive, and the opportunity is there to do it while the timing belt is being replaced.
OR, the costs are nominal. Valve cover gaskets on the turbo diesel VW's do start to leak, so take advantage of the opportunity.
I can understand exactly where you are coming from because it is frightening sometimes to hear people tell their stories about what they had to pay for repair on their cars.
Brake shops as an example (NOT ALL OF THEM) seem to be notorious for selling expensive work which may not really need to be done. Example: I have been in business for 28 going on 29 years. I do not sell calipers, rotors, brake master cylinders and other costly items on the majority of the brake work which comes through my shop. WHY? Because they do not need those parts!
I had a customer who learned the hard way. We had given him a quote for brakes. In this case he did need rotors on his Mercedes.
WE use "ATE" rotors and "TEXTAR" pads which are original equipment parts. They cost a little bit more, but I don't have comebacks (complaints). The husband had to leave town and the wife thought we were too high so she called one of the national chains brake shops. They suckered her in at a price over a hundred dollars lower than mine. When she left their establishment her repair bill was a little over a thousand dollars more than my quote.
They sold her calipers, rotors, brake master, system flush, and a hot wax enema! I don't see how they can get away with things like that? I know for a FACT what that car needed because the car has been in here for regular service for over four years. His wife just thought she could save some money! I guess she did HUH?
Anyway, it sounds like your guy is on the up and up.
Got any more questions? I'll be happy to answer them.
Good Luck

Selvol

James Williams

  • 115 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 18, 2009

SOURCE: oil in water resovour vw 2002 passat

Could be just the OIL COOLER. VW IS CORRECT.
If the oil cooloer fails internely you will have a mix of coolant and oil. In the engine and in the Radiator,

But not to say the other guys were wrong...

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Aug 05, 2009

SOURCE: 95 Jetta GLX VR6 Water Issue

i have the exact same problem going on. I just got this car the other week but have been losing my mind trying to figure this out.
mine is the vr6 as well. when i take the little resevoir hose off from the top it just blows steam no hot water while the car is running. but my other vr6 car pumps water not steam. i am trying to determine if it is the headgasket or the water pump. my exhaust is not white smoke, it does not have water in the oil, and does not have oil in the coolant.
if you have solved this, i would love to know email me [email protected].

thanks so much!

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Dec 13, 2009

SOURCE: oil in water resovour vw 2002 passat

This is not a head gasket problem, it's the oil cooler.  
Water in oil= head gasket - will also overheat, bubbles in expansion tank and loss of water.
Oil in water = Oil cooler. You will also have with non of the above symptoms.
Don't wast hundreds of pounds having your head gasket canged, there is nothing wrong with it!

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