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Michael van Brunt Posted on May 10, 2011
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I have a street stock dirt track race car with a chevy 350 engine runing a hooly 650 carb stock intake and exhoust have trouble with aceleration on the staitaways what could be my issues

  • Michael van Brunt May 11, 2011

    Carb has ben rebuilt Flow meter is telling me i am flowing 660 CFM could this be to much CFM for a stock motor. could it be to much back pressure with the stock exhaust system. I am getting some oil out of the PCV filter. It does Accelerate but not quick enough for the short Strait aways. I am only turning about 4800 RPM During the race. Also My rear end gears are stock 3.80 And i can change them and run headers and aluminum intake would any of these help me.

  • Michael van Brunt May 13, 2011

    Could it be a Back Pressure issue I am Using Stock exhaust Manifolds and I am allowed to run Headers with 3 inch pipe. I have checked the CFM on the carb and flowing 660 CFM The main Problem is no quick acceleration off the corners it is a small track .3 of a mile the car is set up Great I can run any line. I just need Quicker acceleration on the straightaways the car is only turning about 4700 RPM during the race. Any advice. MIKE

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2 Answers

Azrael SRL

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  • Chevrolet Master 11,800 Answers
  • Posted on May 11, 2011
Azrael SRL
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For your engine at 4800 rpm without a compressor it should get 420 CFM - check that yourself here
http://www.ajdesigner.com/phpengine/engine_equations_air_flow_rate.php
. If you get 660 you are getting way too much air and the fuel mixture is too lean for the engine to provide its optimal power. You will need to readjust the carburetors to compensate - raise the level of the fuel in the bowls.
Using custom intakes and exhaust pipes will only make the problem worse - the air flow would be even greater.
Yes, using a shorter rear gearing (a 4.20 will do) will allow the engine to rev higher and give you more power.
You get oil in the PCV either because the level of oil in the crankcase is too high or the rings on the pistons are worn out, the gases blow by them and take oil droplets with them. Check thie compression and the oil level.

  • Azrael SRL May 13, 2011

    I don't think it's a back pressure problem, more likely it's a camshaft problem: the engine (especially if it's a 70's model) peaks at its rated max rpm and it will no go any further. Installing optimized exhaust will raise that limit to no more than 5200 to 5300 rpm.

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  • Master 2,382 Answers
  • Posted on May 10, 2011
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Hi, you probably need to get carb rebuilt, sounds like either trash in carb or accelerator pump plunger in carb bad. I assume you put filter in the right way around. If 2bl carb cheaper to buy a rebuilt unit than overhaul yours. If 4bl cheaper to get rebuilt by a PRO. Also if doing yourself, when you remove carb make sure to clean out channel and 2 holes in intake that work hot air for choke.

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Hi back again I need to know why I would not get any compression in 1 3 5 7 or 6 can anyone tell me why cause I just rebuilt the motor a1976 Chevy 350 can you help

Hi Pete:
The very first things that I would check would be:
- the rocker arm/valve clearances. If they are too tight the valves cannot seat and you will get zero compression.
- Camshaft timing - Make sure that #1 piston is at TDC when you align the timing dots.
Great old motors! They were my favorites when racing dirt track stock cars in the 70's.
Hope to hear back from you.
Cheers
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I have a 1998 chevy 350 that is backfiring through carbourator. Tried everything, three different mechs cannot solve. Please help, Regards, Andre

just a thought, but , if engines are basically stock in nature, putting high performance electrics into them like MSD distributor was a wrong decision . I would replace them with a more stock distributor setup, my reasons are based on my own experience with my 1988 gmc 350. tryed to get a greater spark, more bang for my buck, it ran , but when my mechanic tryed to perform an emissions test , I had your same problem, even fire exploding out of carburator, he literally blew a gasket @ me, almost burned his arm off. he races cars for a hobby, first thing he said was to put back the stock distributor & coil, I did , success ! in coclusion, you have too much fire (spark) and your timming might need adjusted a bit ! HOPE THIS SHEDS SOME LIGHT !
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I need to know what size of carburetor i need for a 1978 chevy with a 350 engine?

This is a complicated question. It depends on how you plan to drive the car.
A 500 cfm Holley would probably be more than enough unless you are using the car on a track.
300 cfm can probably work but may not give you much more performance than a stock Quadrajet.
Holley is the best for modifying a carb to a specific engine. You can pick the jets and other parts to your needs.
Quadrajet was stock on GM.
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We have a 350 chevy with a two ballel carb,this is in a pure stock car we drive at are local track the problem is it back fire when i let off the gas. runs well all the time other when i let off it what...

Check engine timing, it sounds like it is retarded-if you advance the timing just up to the point that it knocks (warmed up, under load) and set it back 2-3 degrees it should not pop through the exhaust, if it pops through the intake you may have a valve issue (weak spring, leaking valve).
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I have a stock chevy 350 of which i just installed a edlebrock intake and edlebrock 600 w/electric choke runs good but has delay on initial acceleration after it catches up takes off really well idles well...

I am not sure what type of Carb you have but I will assume it is a Holley ( Most Popular ) The accelerator pump arm on the carb probably needs to be adjusted.It is adjuster by bendinding the end of the arm. Also the accerlerator portion of the carb could be a bad one.The other possibility is the metering jets are too small to feed your demands of your engine on hard aceleration.Or your air/fuel mixture is incorrectly adjusted and it is runnig to lean or to rich.
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I race a 1994 saturn on a dirt track. My car runs

Is it a stock engine?

If so check your ECTS water temperature SENSOR not sender, it's located on the right side of the block towards the bottom drivers side engine compartment.

Change the harness connector to it as well it usually goes bad due to corrosion, the original ects sensor was plastic which cracks, the replacement is 8 bucks at auto zone and is brass.

If this goes bad your engine will run rich, waste a lot of fuel and foul the plugs causing the engine to cut out.

If this is fine then check your ignition system for failures due to vibration.
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Engine swap 5.0 vortec to 350 non computer controled

The computer runs the Transmission from the signals the throttle position sensor, crank shaft sensor, and cam shaft sensor. Your going to have to replace the transmission with an older transmission like the turbo 350 or turbo 400. When it's time to get the car e-tested, that's when your going to run in to problems, due to the year your Chevy is. If your Chevy was a 1985 then you could go with the carb system but with being the newer OBD11 system, your going to have an off road only vehicle with that swap. Why would you want to replace the engine with the 350 carb set up??? There are things you can do to tweak the one in your Chevy free of charge.
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Aftermarket intake, camshaft and either a good set of heads or port/polish what you have. If you go with a cam, go with more adv. duration and duration and .050. I like running a .525 lift, .230 dur. @ .050 and .292 advertised duration. Get a good set of springs and valves. This cam should get your redline around 6200. If you're using this engine on the street, I prefer the Performer RPM with a 1" spacer. This provides plenty of velocity to the heads. If you can find a set of camel hump heads, casting number 041 you'll love those or have your heads ported. I'd run a Edlebrock 1407 carb. with this set up if you're using it on the street. If you're using this engine for strip duty as well, use a single plane intake like a Victor Jr. Professional Products have a nice selection of single plane intakes for a very low price. I've bought one myself and really liked it.
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Stock horsepower - 1984 GMC C3500

I own a shop, and build a lot of these engines. I have a race car & truck in which I built, so horsepower is something I know a little about. Most of these engines are rated around 190 - 200 horses, but when put on a dyno can be as much as 225, or as little as 175 or 180. Since its a truck engine it has more torque than an engine that was put in a car, and it also should be a four bolt main engine. The good thing about this engine is; One can get a lot more out of these with a little work. Matter of fact, its not that hard, or expensive to see as much as 400 horses from that engine, when rebuilt with some high performance parts. One can add just a few things such as headers, good intake, dual exhaust, flowmaster mufflers, and a better igniton system, and hit 300 - 325 pretty easily. Glad to help out, Good Luck!!!
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