Windows will not operate--don't know where fuse panel is

You need to see a wiring diagram to see how the ignition switch allows or sends power to that 30 amp fuse. The switch may turn on a relay (maybe the ignition relay) that sends power to the fuse panel. Or the run wire out of the switch may itself turn power on at the fuses. You may have a loose connection behind the fuse panel.
Get a test light, pull the fuse, and check for power at the fuse terminals, with key on. One terminal for the fuse should have power. If not, power is lost between the ignition switch and that fuse. If it does have power, and windows still don't work, check the wire from fuse panel to the master switch-loose or poor connections, maybe a partially broken wire. If it looks good, check the ground wire for the windows. The ground wire originates at the master switch and will go back into the cabin to a nearby ground, possibly behind the left kick panel. If still no help, someone may need a volt- ohmmeter to start checking continuity of wires, voltage drops, etc.

Fuses, relays, and circuit breaker information and locations are given in your owner's manual. An 18 year old car...Have you ever even SEEN the owner;s manual for your car? If it is lost, look for the cabin fuse panel, usually below the dash on the driver's side...most manufacturers use circuit breakers (20 or 25 amp rating) rather than fuses in the power window circuits. I don't know. Pick your answer, and good luck, Carl.

There is no "fuse" for your power windows. ALL of your window circuits are protected by a 25 Amp self-resetting circuit breaker in the Junction Block. Junction Block (JB) is concealed behind the left outboard end of the instrument panel cover.
I don't know which window you are calling a "relay window" but if your other windows are working, this circuit breaker is NOT the problem.

Please also review these articles:
Where's The Fuse?

What Else Could Be Wrong?

There will be a fuse compartment under the dash on the passenger side of the dash. Fuse number 16 Is the fuse for the right rear window switch. If the fuse is o.k and you have a test light or volt meter, know how to use them, and can remove door panels I will be happy to talk you through some diagnostic procedures to see if it's the master switch, the right rear switch, or the window motor.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

{: ) At the underhood fuseblock, the AUX PWR fuse 20amps is for the Instrument panel and center console outlets, while the RR APO fuse 20amps is for the rear console and rear power outlets.
If your vehicle is equipped with an accessory 110vac, there is this PWR OUTLET fuse 25amps also at the underhood fuseblock. See red arrows on the sample diagram below:


Safety reminders: Use only fuses of the same specifications. A higher fuse rating replacement can heat the wirings and could cause fire.

Why would you change a fuse more than once?

Don't you know what a fuse is for?

If it blows out even once,you have a higher
current load than the fuse is rated at, or a
short to ground

Have the items that don't work correctly ,
diagnosed & repaired.

Hi there,

All power windows are controlled by the same fuse.

Therefore, the most logical problem will lie either with the driver's window 'switch' or the driver's window regulator 'motor'.

If you know how to remove the internal door panel to gain access to the 2-wire connector on the regulator motor, undo the connector and using suitable jumper wires, connect each plug wire to a spare 12v battery - this should operate the motor. Then, reverse the wires on the battery and the regulator motor should move the opposite way.

If the motor operates "continuously" in both directions when connected directly to battery power, then the fault lies in the driver's master window switch.

If the motor fails to move "continuously" (ie it stops part way) in either direction, then the motor on the window regulator is faulty and should be replaced with a known good motor.

Cheers,


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Now you have what I will call a very RARE time
when you can check for a blown fuse

It won't fix anything,but if it is & blows again
you know one of your window motors is overloading
the entire sytem.
Bad motor or stuck somehow.

Also some vehicles (most) have a
Delay Accy Module that times out after you open
the door. Radio goes off,windows go to sleep etc.

Don't know where that is