Question about Ford Escort
My brothers 2000 ford ranger the fuse went out to the speed sensor. I change the speed sensor because it did not shift out of 1st gear and the speedometer stopped working. I then found out the fuse was missing in the fuse panel. My brother could not tell where the fuse went but when I put a fuse in it started shifting and the speedometer started working. everything was good. You should have a code if it is the speed sensor.
Posted on Aug 15, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: vehical stuck in limp mode
This only applies if you have an allison transmission, which based on the problem you are reporting I would guess that you do.
It sounds like your vehicle is stuck in limp mode. This is probably due to a bad NSBU switch(Neutral, saftey, back up) (if you have an allison transmission. Prior to 2002 the NSBU switches had a very poor seal which resulted in water intrusion into the NSBU switch causing corrosion. If the switch is corroded it is likley confusing your transmission. Unfortunatly you cannot repair the bad switch, it needs to be replaced. If you order one through Chevy it will cost around 200 dollars. I found one at merchant Automotive for 91 dollars. ( http://www.merchant-automotive.com/allisonnsbuswitch2001-2004.aspx ).
The switch is relativly easy to replace. the electrical connections are the hardest part as they are glued into the switch. A little heat from a butane torch should soften it up and make the connectors slide off more easily. Other wise you may have to break the NSBU switch appart to remove the connectors.
I replaced the switch for the first time and it took me 15 minutes.
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
If you look at your valve cover its at the back on the right, it comes up and then its an elbow, it comes over the top of the valve cover then down. the PCV valve is either the elbow or the piece in front of the valve cover after the elbow.
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
Do you hear a 'click' when the key is turned to start? Have someone try the key while you listen under the hood. It should be the starter solenoid clicking. You need either a test light or voltmeter to test further. One large terminal on the solenoid has the large wire from the battery positive, and should always show voltage/light at all times. Test the other side of the solenoid (large terminal) that is connected to the terminal on the starter motor. It should show light/voltage when the key is turned. If it doesn't, the solenoid must be replaced. If it does show light/voltage, then the starter motor is defective (probably brushes). If you get no click when turning the key, test the small terminal on the solenoid, you should see a voltage/light change when the key is turned. If you see a change, but no click, the solenoid coil is open or the case of the solenoid is not grounding where it is mounted. Try loosening the mounting and re-tighten. If no help, replace the solenoid. If you see no change at the small terminal, remove the wire from it and using a spare piece of wire, touch the small terminal to, first, the large terminal that the battery is connected to, then to the the mounting bolt for the solenoid. If the solenoid is good, the starter should operate with one of these two tests. In that case, the starter position of key switch is open--replace the ignition switch.
Posted on Sep 15, 2009
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