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o replace the front passenger CV axle on a 2001 Chevy Venture, you'll need a set of basic tools. Here's a list of tools you might require for this job:
Jack and Jack Stands:
Used to lift the vehicle safely and provide support during the repair.
Wheel Chocks:
Ensures that the vehicle stays in place while lifting one end.
Lug Wrench:
To loosen and remove the lug nuts securing the wheel.
Socket Set and Wrenches:
Various sizes to remove bolts and nuts securing the CV axle.
Pry Bar or Crowbar:
Helps in removing components like the wheel hub.
Pliers:
Used to remove cotter pins and other small components.
Hammer:
May be needed to tap or gently persuade parts loose.
Torque Wrench:
Necessary for tightening nuts and bolts to the manufacturer's specifications.
Pry Tool or Flathead Screwdriver:
Useful for prying apart certain components.
Hub Puller (Optional):
Sometimes required to remove the wheel hub from the CV axle.
CV Joint Clamp Pliers:
If your CV axle is secured with clamps, you'll need pliers designed for CV joint clamps.
Catch Pan:
To catch any transmission fluid that may leak during the process.
New CV Axle:
Ensure you have the correct replacement part for your specific vehicle.
Wheel Bearing Grease:
Used to lubricate the CV joint and ensure smooth operation.
Service Manual:
A repair manual specific to your vehicle can provide step-by-step instructions and torque specifications.
Always follow safety precautions and consult your vehicle's service manual for specific instructions related to your Chevy Venture. If you're not comfortable with the repair process, it's advisable to seek professional assistance.
start by jacking up car end of cv will have a cotter pin remove it, you'll need a 35 mm or 1 1/2 sae socket to remove retaining nut , after that ues a hard block of wood and strike that with hammer ( NEVRE STRIKE CV END WITH ANYTHIN METAL OR VERY HARD),at this point cv should be loose ,seperate cv from bearing hub you may also have to remove tie rod end to swing it out.ok thats it in a nut shell good luck hope it helps you.
Loosen the lug nuts (turning counter-clockwise) to finger
tight on the front wheel with the damaged CV joint. Buy, borrow or rent a
CV nut socket. Some auto parts stores will sell you one for about $30
and refund your money when you return it. Because the CV nut in the
center of the wheel hub is locked in place with a safety
tab, it is loosened initially with a long breaker bar or a hollow pipe
placed over the ratchet handle to increase the torque needed to break
the nut free. Loosen to finger tightness.
2
Set safety brakes and jack up the front of the car toward the side of the damaged CV joint using at least a 2 1/2-ton jack. Both the car
and the jack should be on a hard, level surface and the lifting point
must be a load-bearing member on the chassis or engine cradle. Place two
jack stands under the front end and slowly lower the car onto the jack
stands so the car chassis is fully resting on the stands. Now, pull out
the jack and move it out of the way.
3
Remove the wheel lug nuts and pull off the wheel from the
hub. If it doesn't cooperate, kick the bottom of the tire sidewall with
the back of your heel or the flat of your hand to dislodge it. Unscrew
the center CV nut. To dislodge the male spline outboard end of the CV
joint that fits into the female spline in the back of the wheel hub,
take the CV nut and screw it back on three or four turns, then strike it
with a hammer to partially disengage the splines.
4
Remove the ball joint stud on the lower control arm from its socket in the spindle behind the wheel
hub, after you remove a locking bolt, cotter pin or other device that
holds the ball joint stud that protrudes from the lower control arm.
Then, wedge a pry bar (called a pickle fork) between the tie rod and
sway bar. To gain greater leverage, insert the pry bar handle into a
length of pipe and apply downward pressure to remove the ball joint stud
from the spindle.
5
Remove the CV joint and shaft. With the lower ball joint
disconnected from the wheel spindle, the hub can be moved to the side
just enough to remove the outer CV joint from the spindle socket in the
back of the wheel hub. Do not stretch the brake line that is attached to
the wheel brake cylinder as you move the hub aside. With the outboard
end of the shaft free of the wheel, pull the shaft straight out from the
transmission housing. Because of the labor involved with repairing or
replacing CV joints, it's more cost effective to simply replace the
entire shaft assembly including the two CV joints and boots.
6
Install the new shaft and CV joint assembly. Clean the
transmission seal that came off the old unit; pack it with grease and
place it over the inboard spline of the new unit before inserting new
shaft into transmission. Make sure splines are lined up before tapping
the other end of the shaft with a hammer to seat it in its socket.
Carefully insert the other end of the shaft back into the wheel hub and
loosely thread on the new CV bolt that came with the assembly.
7
Reinstall the ball joint stud into the spindle by
re-inserting the pry bar between the tie rod and the sway bar and
leveraging down the lower control arm with the ball joint stud
positioned just under the spindle hole. Then release pressure on the pry
bar so the ball joint stud re-seats into the spindle. Push the wheel
hub all the way onto the shaft spline to seat and torque down the CV nut
tight. With a flat head screwdriver tap the lip of the new CV nut into
the groove cut into the screw end. Now, re-attach the ball joint locking
bolt, put the tire back, replace lug nuts and tighten. Remove the car
from the jack stands and finish tightening the tire lug nuts.
There's no repair to the hub bearing assembly, seal unit, to replace first remove axle nut ( 32 or 36 mm) might need some one to step on brake while removing nut, so it done turn on you, remove front brake caliper and caliper bracket, then remove brake rotor, on back side of hub bearing there three bolt's, remove, hub bearing should slide out, some time with a little help from a hammer, install new hub bearing.
In order to change the cv joint, you will need to remove the wheel and the brake caliper and rotor. Raise vehicle on jack stands. Remove the wheel and remove the brake pads and caliper. Tie the caliper up out of the way, do not disconnect the brake line attached. Once the caliper is removed, slide the rotor off. Using the correct size socket, remove the nut in center of hub. Some vehicles have a kotter pin in the shaft just in front of nut. If so, remove pin before nut. Next, you will need to loosen a few bolts that hold the strut to the hub assembly. Once you have hub free from strut, turn the hub either left or right while having someone push in on the cv joint while turning joint left or right. Doing so will allow the joint to slide out of hub. Next, using a pry bar, insert between end of transaxle and transmission and pry out. To install new axle, align the axle with transmission and slide into transmission. Carefully work the other end of axle into the center of the hub assembly. Once you have it in the hub, tap gently with a rubber mallet until you hear it "pop" into transmission. Once it is in transmission, replace the bolts connecting the hub to strut. Replace nut on center or cv joint and tighten just until it seats against the hub...do not overtighten. Replace kotter pin with new pin. Slide the rotor over the studs, replace caliper and brake pads, install wheel and you are done.
CAUTION: Do not loosen the axle wheel hub retainer until the wheel and tire are removed from the vehicle. Wheel bearing damage will occur if the wheel bearing is unloaded with the weight of the vehicle applied.
1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
NOTE: Have an assistant press the brake pedal to keep the axle from turning.
2. Remove the nut and washer and discard the nut.
3. Remove the parking brake shoes.
CAUTION: Do not damage the boot while separating the toe link from the knuckle.
4. Remove the nut and bolt and separate the toe link from the wheel knuckle and discard the nut.
CAUTION: Do not damage the boot while separating the ball joint from the knuckle.
5. Remove the nut and bolt and separate the upper ball joint from the wheel knuckle and discard the nut.
CAUTION: Do not use a hammer to separate the outboard CV joint from the hub. Damage to the threads and internal CV joint components may result.
6. Using the special tool, press the outboard CV joint until it is loose from the hub.
7. Remove the nut and bolt and the wheel knuckle, hub and bearing as an assembly and discard the nut.
(Return to) Rear Wheel Bearing REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
2. Remove the three bolts.
CAUTION: Make sure that the press adapter outside diameter is slightly smaller than the hub outside diameter or damage to the knuckle will result.
3. Using a suitable press, remove the hub from the bearing and discard the hub.
NOTE: The retainer ring is tapered and must be installed flat side down.
4. Remove and Discard the retainer ring.
5. Using a suitable press, remove the bearing from the wheel knuckle and discard the bearing.
CAUTION: The hub and bearing cannot be reused after disassembly.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
you have to replace bearing and hub as a unit.you have to remove remove brakes and caliper rotor set them aside dont disconnect brake line. get a piece of clothes rack wire to hold brake caliper .do not let it hang by brake hose. you got to remove hub nut. best way to do that is loosen it a litttle while tire still on weight of car keep wheel from turning .
Remove the wheel. Remove the ABS speed sensor if so equipped.
Unclamp the brake hose from the shock absorber, but do not disconnect the line.
Remove the brake caliper and hang it out of the way on a piece of stiff wire. Do not disconnect the brake line; do not allow the caliper to hang by the hose.
Remove the brake disc.
Place a dial indicator near the center of the axle hub, and check the backlash in the bearing shaft direction. Maximum is 0.0020 inch (0.05mm). If the backlash exceeds the maximum, replace the bearing.
Usiung a dial; indicator, check the deviation at the surface of the axle hub outside the hub bolt. Maximum is 0.0028 inch (0.07mm). If the deviation exceeds the maximum, replace the axle hub.
Install the disc and caliper. Tighten to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
Remove the cotter pin and install the wheel. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
Remove the lock nut cap. While depressing the brake pedal, remove the center axle nut.
Raise and support the vehicle again and remove the wheel, caliper and disc.
Loosen the 2 nuts on the lower side of the shock absorber. Do not remove the 2 nuts and bolts.
Remove the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod end.
Remove the tie rod end from the knuckle using a joint separator or equivalent.
Remove the bolt and 2 nuts holding the bottom of the ball joint to the control arm and separate the arm from the knuckle.
Remove the 2 nuts from the steering knuckle. Place a protective cover or shield over the CV boot on the driveshaft.
Using a plastic mallet, tap the driveshaft free of the hub assembly.
Remove the bolts and remove the axle hub assembly.
Clamp the knuckle in a vise with protected jaws.
Remove the dust deflector. Loosen the nut holding the ball joint to the knuckle. Use a ball joint separator tool or equivalent to loosen and remove the joint
Use a slide hammer/extractor to remove the outer oil seal.
Remove the snapring.
Using a hub puller and pilot tools or equivalents, pull the axle hub from the knuckle.
Remove the brake splash shield (3 bolts).
Use a split plate bearing remover, puller pilot and a shop press, remove the inner bearing race from the hub.
Remove the inner oil seal with the same tools used to remove the outer seal.
To install:
Place the inner race in the bearing. Support the knuckle and use an axle hub remover with a plastic mallet to drive out the bearing.
Clean and inspect all parts but do not wash or clean the wheel bearing; it cannot be repacked. If the bearing is damaged or noisy, it must be replaced.
Press a new bearing race into the steering knuckle using a bearing driver of the correct size.
Place a new bearing inner race on the hub bearing.
Insert the side lip of a new oil seal into the seal installer and drive the oil seal into the steering knuckle.
Apply multi-purpose grease to the oil seal lip.
Apply sealer to the brake splash shield and install the shield.
Use a hub installer to press the hub into the steering knuckle.
Install a new snapring into the hub.
Using a seal installer of the correct size, install a new outer oil seal into the steering knuckle.
Apply multi-purpose grease to the seal surfaces which will contact the driveshaft.
Support the knuckle and drive in a new dust deflector.
Install the ball joint into the knuckle and tighten the nut to 105 ft. lbs. (142). Install NEW cotter pin.
Temporarily install the hub assembly to the lower control arm and fit the driveaxle into the hub.
Install the knuckle to strut bolts, then attach the tie rod end to the knuckle.
Tighten the strut bracket nuts to 203 ft. lbs. (275 Nm) and tighten the tie rod end nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm). Install the NEW cotter pin.
Connect the ball joint to the lower control arm and tighten the nuts to 105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm).
Install the brake disc.
Attach the brake caliper to the knuckle and tighten the bolts to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
Install the center nut and washer on the drive axle.
Install the ABS speed sensor if so equipped. Install the wheel
Lower the car to the ground.
Tighten the wheel nuts to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). Tighten the hub nut while depressing the brake pedal to 137 ft. lbs. (186 Nm) on 1988-91 models and 152 ft. lbs. (206 Nm) on 1992-97 models. Install the cap and cotter pin.
Remove the protective cover from the CV boot. Check front wheel alignment
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