Things to test when checking cooling system
<p>A leak detection additive is available through the
parts department that can be added to cooling system. The additive is
highly visible under ultraviolet light (black light) (1). Pour one ounce
of additive into cooling system. Place heater control unit in HEAT
position. Start and operate engine until the radiator upper hose is warm
to touch. Aim the commercially available black light tool at components
to be checked. If leaks are present, black light will cause the additive
to glow a bright green color.<br />
<p>The black light can be used in conjunction with a pressure tester to determine if any external leaks exist .<br />
<p><b>PRESSURE TESTER METHOD</b><br />he engine should be at normal operating temperature.
Recheck the system cold if the cause of coolant loss is not located
during the warm engine examination.
<br />
WARNING
<p> HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.<br />
<p>Carefully remove the radiator pressure cap from the
filler neck and check coolant level. Push down on cap to disengage it
from the stop tabs. Wipe the inside of filler neck and examine the lower
inside sealing seat for nicks, cracks, paint, dirt and solder residue.
Inspect the radiator-to- reserve/overflow tank hose for internal
obstructions. Insert a wire through the hose to be sure it is not
obstructed.<br />
<p>Inspect cams on the outside of filler neck. If the
cams are damaged, seating of the pressure cap valve and tester seal will
be affected.<br />
<p>Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to radiator filler neck (1).<br />
<p>Operate tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15 psi)
pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or bulge while testing,
replace as necessary. Observe the gauge pointer and determine the
condition
of the cooling system according to the following criteria:<br />
<p><b>Holds Steady:</b> If the pointer remains steady
for two minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in system.
However, there could be an internal leak that does not appear with
normal system test pressure. If it is certain that coolant is being lost
and leaks cannot be detected, inspect for interior leakage or perform
Internal Leakage Test. Refer to <a>INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION</a>.<br />
<p><b>Drops Slowly:</b> Indicates a small leak or
seepage is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or slight
leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator, hoses, gasket edges and
heater. Seal small leak holes with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent).
Repair leak holes and inspect system again with pressure applied.<br />
<p><b>Drops Quickly:</b> Indicates that serious leakage
is occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If leaks are not
visible, inspect for internal leakage. Large radiator leak holes
should be repaired by a reputable radiator repair shop.<br />
<a></a>
<p><b>INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION</b><br />
<p>Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a small
amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in the pan, it will drain
first because it is heavier than oil. An alternative method is to
operate
engine for a short period to churn the oil. After this is done, remove
engine dipstick and inspect for water globules. Also inspect the
transmission dipstick for water globules and the transmission fluid
cooler for leakage.<br />
<br />
WARNING
<p> WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER TOOL
INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW PRESSURE TO EXCEED 145 KPA (21 PSI).
PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION LEAK IS PRESENT.
TO RELEASE PRESSURE, ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN REMOVING
TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER
PRESSURE.<br />
<p>Operate the engine without the pressure cap on the
radiator until the thermostat opens. Attach a Pressure Tester to filler
neck. If pressure builds up quickly it indicates a combustion leak
exists. This is usually the result of a cylinder head gasket leak or
crack in engine. Repair as necessary.<br />
<p>If there is not an immediate pressure increase, pump
the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated pressure is within system
range of 110 kPa (16 psi). Fluctuation of gauge pointer indicates
compression or combustion leakage into cooling system.<br />
<p>Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic converter, <b>do not</b> remove spark plug cables or short out cylinders to isolate compression leak.<br />
<p>If the needle on the dial of pressure tester does
not fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an abnormal amount
of coolant or steam. This would be emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant
or steam from exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gasket,
cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.<br />
<p>A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into
cooling system is provided by a commercially available Block Leak Check
tool. Follow manufacturers instructions when using this product.<br />
<p><b>COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST - WITHOUT PRESSURE TESTER</b><br />
<p>DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If the solution is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for reuse.<br />
<br />
WARNING
<p> DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK DRAIN
PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAINCOCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.<br />
<p>Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat
removal(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE). Remove accessory
drive belt or (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).<br />
<p>Add coolant to radiator to bring level to within 6.3 mm (1/4 in) of the top of the thermostat housing.<br />
<br />
CAUTION
<p> Avoid overheating. Do not operate
engine for an excessive period of time. Open draincock immediately after
test to eliminate boil over.<br />
<p>Start engine and accelerate rapidly three times, to
approximately 3000 rpm while observing coolant. If internal engine
combustion gases are leaking into cooling system, bubbles will appear in
coolant. If bubbles do not appear, internal combustion gas leakage is
not present.
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