Electrical problems I was using the tester light on the switch for my power seats and i think something grounded out. Now the power door locks and windows don't work.I also don't have an owners manual for the fuse diagram.
Well i dont know if this may help at all but my boyfriend had the same thing almost with his explorer. He had now window power or lights inside of the car. He found out that it was a fuse that was unmarked was blown. Make sure you check every fuse in the box on the driver side. There was one listed as lights and windows but it wasnt that one. It was actually a totally different fuse. If this does help im sorry. I'm not and expert. This was just from experience.
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Here are the codes you posted along with the possible issues that may have caused each code to be triggered. It's possible the circuit these switches share has a problem that needs to be diagnosed.
It could well be a problem with the wiring or a problem with the connections between the switches and the Multiplex Control Unit, or possibly with the Multiplex Control Unit itself.
B1129
Driver Side Door Lock Knob Switch Signal Error
Faulty Driver Side Door Lock Knob Switch
Driver Side Door Lock Knob Switch harness is open or shorted
Driver Side Door Lock Knob Switch circuit poor electrical connection
Faulty Door Multiplex Control Unit
B2077
Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 1 Signal Error
Faulty Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 1
Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 1 harness is open or shorted
Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 1 circuit poor electrical connection
Faulty Right Power Sliding Door Control Unit
B2078
Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 2 Signal Error
Faulty Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 2
Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 2 harness is open or shorted
Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 2 circuit poor electrical connection Faulty Right Power Sliding Door Control Unit
B2079
Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 3 Signal Error
Faulty Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 3
Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 3 harness is open or shorted
Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 3 circuit poor electrical connection
A electrical short circuit keeps blowing the fuse . Looking at a wiring diagram an using a DVOM - digital volt ohmmeter to test the electrical circuits is how to find the problem . With not having the vehicle here to test i would only be guessing as to what the problem is . Plus you need to train to learn how to fix these type problems . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SO-eKuhCOqc
You need to look an see what else that fuse powers ,fuse's sometimes power other thing's besides what the fuse is called .Power locks fuse # 32 20 amp. Does the car have keyless entry ?
xTooltipElement
Service Information
1999 Chevrolet Monte Carlo ' Monte Carlo, Lumina (VIN W) Service Manual ' Body and Accessories ' Doors ' Description and Operation ' Document ID: 292071
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Power Door Locks Circuit Description
Models Without Keyless Entry
When either door lock switch is pressed in the power door locks system, all doors lock or unlock in unison. Each lock can also be operated manually from the locking knob.
The locks are operated by reversible actuators that receive voltage from the door lock relay assembly's two built-in relays. The relays energize the actuators by applying voltage to one of the terminals and ground to the other terminal. In order to reverse the actuators, the polarity to the terminals is reversed.
The door lock switches are usually closed briefly. If the door lock switches are held closed, a circuit breaker in each actuator will open to protect against damage. The circuit breaker resets only after voltage is removed from the actuator.
Lock Operation
Pressing the lock position on either door lock switch sends a voltage signal in CKT 195.
Pressing the lock position turns on the lock relay located inside the door lock relay assembly. The lock relay completes the circuit that supplies voltage to CKT 295. CKT 295 is the voltage feed to the actuators.
At this time, the unlock relay is not energized. When the unlock relay is off, CKT 294 is grounded, which provides a ground path to the door lock actuators.
The entire action described completes the electrical circuit the actuators in each door, thus locking the doors.
When the door lock switch is released, the lock relay contact closes to ground, and the actuators turn off.
Unlock Operation
Pressing the unlock position on either door lock switch sends a voltage signal in CKT 194.
Pressing the unlock position turns on the unlock relay located inside the door lock relay assembly. The unlock relay completes the circuit that supplies voltage to CKT 294. CKT 294 is the voltage feed to the actuators.
At this time, the lock relay is not energized. When the lock relay is off, CKT 295 is grounded, which provides a ground path to the door lock actuator.
The entire action described completes the electrical circuit to the actuators in each door, thus unlocking the doors. The polarity of the voltage to the actuators has reversed, causing the actuators to run in the opposite direction in order to unlock the doors.
Models Equipped With Keyless Entry
All door locks operate the same as vehicle models equipped without keyless entry, except the left front door lock.
Lock Operation
Pressing the lock position on either door lock switch sends a voltage signal in CKT 195.
Pressing the lock position turns on the lock relay located inside the door lock relay assembly. The lock relay completes the circuit that supplies voltage to CKT 295. CKT 295 is the voltage feed to the actuators.
At this time, the lock relay is not energized. When the lock relay is off, CKT 295 is grounded, which provides a ground path to all door lock actuators, except left front door lock actuator.
The left front door actuator is grounded through the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver, RCDLR, CKT 694. The RCDLR has a built-in relay. When the built-in relay is de-energized, the relay provides a path to ground to the left front door actuator.
The entire action described completes the electrical circuit to the actuators in each door, thus locking the doors.
When the door lock switch is released, the lock relay contact closes to ground, and the actuators turn off.
Unlock Operation
Pressing the unlock position on either door lock switch sends a voltage signal in CKT 194. The signal is sent to both the unlock relay located inside the door lock relay and the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver, RCDLR.
Pressing the unlock position turns on the unlock relay, and signals the RCDLR to unlock the left front door. the unlock relay completes the circuit that supplies voltage to CKT 294. CKT 294 is the voltage feed to the actuators, except the left front door lock actuator.
The left front door actuator receives voltage through the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver, RCDLR, CKT 694. the RCDLR has a built-in relay. When the built-in relay is energized, the relay provides a voltage to the left front door actuator. The RCDLR energizes the relay when it receives a voltage in CKT 194.
At this time, the lock relay is not energized. When the lock relay is off, CKT 295 is grounded, which provides a ground path to all door lock actuators.
The left front door actuator is grounded through the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver, RCDLR, CKT 694. The RCDLR has a built-in relay. When the built-in relay is de-energized, the relay provides a path to ground the left front door actuator.
The entire action described completes the electrical circuit to the actuators in each door, thus locking the doors.
When the door lock switch is released, the unlock relay contact closes to ground, the RCDLR left door unlock control relay contacts close to ground, and the actuators turn off.
I would think you have ground problem , all these systems must share a common ground point , body ground . Probably behind the instrument panel or one of the right or left kick panels . You could test if you knew how to do a voltage drop testing . The easiest to get at would be a door switch , with a volt meter test power and ground while trying to open window or door lock . I will post a video off of youtube on voltage drop testing , the two guy's giving the training are service professionals . and teachers . Copy of Voltage Drop Essentials TST Motor Age Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know
I know they have a trend to go on the earth in the doors. main ground is behind the dash, take the panel out and looking up you can see it, usually if this has gone hear you lose dash lights and a list of other stuff from heater control etc. there is also a earthing point under the battery and one under the windscreen cover. there is also one under the centre console near to the hand brake. one above the the glove box on pass side. if you have problems with the ground it is some time better just to make your own. find the ground wire and drill a hole in a good spot. and use a self tapping screw and earth it from there. if this is the only problem you have the ground wire may have broken some were in a moving part or even one of the seat runners. heated seats would not work if you have them fitted.
How to diagnose this problem ? Viewing wiring diagrams to see what all is invovled in these electrical circuit's , check power supply's an ground connection's using a DMM - digital multimeter !
What type power seat's ? does it have memory ,heated an cooled etc ?
Power Seats System Description and Operation
There are 2 options of power seat systems available in full size trucks. The first is 6 way driver and passenger power seats without memory. The second is an 8-way driver seat plus 4-way lumbar with memory, heat and optional cool function. While the passenger has 8-way power seats with heat and optional cool function. For the driver memory seat operation, refer to Memory Seats Description and Operation. Power seats without memory are completely controlled through the power seat switch. Battery voltage is supplied to the power seat switch through the power seat circuit breaker. While the seat adjuster switches are in an inactive state the switch contacts are closed to the power seat switch ground circuit. When a power seat switch is pressed to an active state the switch contact is closed to the battery voltage supply circuit. Each seat adjuster motor is controlled by the power seat switch through 2 motor control circuits. The seat adjuster motors are bidirectional and the direction of adjuster motor rotation is determined by which of the adjuster motor control circuits is switched to battery voltage while the other remains grounded.
If it has memory seat's there is a control module !
Battery voltage is supplied to the driver seat module through a 25 A circuit breaker. The driver seat module supplies the seat adjuster switch assembly with a battery positive reference voltage. While the seat adjuster switches are in an inactive state the switch contacts are closed to the adjuster switch common circuit.
Both right side windows have a seperate power supply from the left side window's ,has RT DOORS circuit breaker CB1 - 25amp. location left instrument panel fuse block . Circuit breaker's very rarely fail .Do the door lock's work on that side of the vehicle ? The windows won't work with their own switche's ?
The DDS controls the passenger window through a GMLAN message to the PDS. When a power window switch is activated in the up or down positions the PDS supplies power and ground to the window motor control circuits to drive the window motor in the required direction. Prior to activating a power window motor the PDS will supply the control circuit with a low current bias voltage in order to determine that a short to ground condition does not exist, and during window motor operation the PDS continues to monitor the motor current to verify proper window motor operation. (Scan tool support is available for this system)
Check PDM fuse 4 15 amp ,this supply's B+ voltage to the DOORLOCK/WINDOW switch passenger side . Check for broken wires inside the flex boot from the body to the passenger door .
Check the fuse and circuit breaker "A". I have the same problem except I am missing the circuit breaker. There was a circuit breaker that was jury rigged with some wires that worked for awhile until the wires broke.
Look for broken or corroded wiring in the door, especially where the cable goes from the body to the door. You will probably have to remove the door's interior trim panel for testing and inspection.
Visual: a wire with a nick in the insulation surrounded by a greenish stain is probably corroded through. The wire would have to be cut and spliced at that point. Use an automotive grade self-sealing or heat shrink ene-to-end splice, or put heat shrink tubing on the wire, solder the splice, then shrink the tubing over it. If the wire is part of a wire bundle, tape or zip-tie the splice to the rest of the bundle, other wise secure the cable to a support (away from possible contact with moving parts!) at or near the splice. If the door or the frame around the door is heavily rusted, you may have a bad ground connection.
Electrical: use a voltmeter or 12v tester to check for power in the door. Check the wiring to the lock and window switches first (especially red or pink). If you don't find any that read at or near the battery voltage with the vehicle accessories turned on (driver's door working), then you know it's a wiring problem. Measure voltage between device connector terminals and a good frame ground point (there may not be any power at the window or lock motors unless the corresponding switch is activated).
If you have a test light or voltmeter I'll try and walk you thru this.
How your system works is the switch has power to it from fuse 19 in the under dash fuse panel(15amp) on the WH/VT wire,this is the same on both switches.
when you go to the lock postion the drivers switch will get power on the VT wire and in the unlock postion it will get power on the LG wire. On the passenger switch in the lock postion it will get power on the PK/YEand in unlock on the PK/LG.
Now this will fed to the GEM module which piggy backs onto the fuse panel.Then the GEM will provide power and ground to the door lock actuators in the door.
Now if you have power leaving the switch like stated I would then remove one of the door panels to access one of the actuators. Then measure voltage and ground at the actuators while you activate the door lock switch.It should have power on one side and ground on the other in one postion then when you go to the other postion on the switch this should switch, previous wire that was hot should now be ground and previous ground should now be hot.
Make sure you test it for ground as well as power you can do this by hooking your test light to a power source instead of ground and when u get a ground of course it will light.
Now the test I just provided will eliminate the door lock switches and the door lock actuators. If you do not have the power and grounds as listed then the problem will be either wiring or GEM module.
to repair this problem you must remove floor lights from seats and check the circuit for either a short or a stuck switch use a multi tester this can get to be irritating as the short may be not directly behind switch could be along wiring that runs through car my suggestion if your not electrically proficient is take it to an electromechanic shop or simply unplug the light from socket to avoid draining the battery.
Sounds to me like this which is not grounded or they have text the wrong wires can burnt the switch up somebody needs to pull out the door panel and use a wire tester to see if there's any current if that don't help I would ask the dealership mechanic
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