At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Here are the torque specs you seek:
• Caliper mount bolts are to be set at 74 ft-lb
• Driveshaft axle nut should be at 177 ft-lb
• Hub and bearing mounting bolts should be at 133 ft-lb
I belive that your talking about the bolts that sucure the hub to the knuckle . 50 TO 60 FT LBS is good its not a super critial spec unless for some other reason they are comeing loose witch wouldn't have anything to do with the torque spec anyway . Torque is determined by the diamater and tread pitch as well the grade of the bolt so a grade 8 bolt is much harder and stronger then a grade 2 bolt and the thread pitch is lower on harder bolts so they have more threads per inch . You can also tell by looking at the head of the bolt the more lines you see the harder the steel the bolt is made out of is So like i said its not super crictial and if there lock washers make sure you but them back ware they came from
Those vehicles should have a hub assembly which incorporates a bearing and hub in one unit. To my knowledge the bearing is not serviceable. The hub assembly is bolted to the steering knuckle, so there actually is no wheel bearing torque. The tire/wheel assembly bolts directly to the wheel flange on the new hub assembly.
×