How do i get to the top nuts theres a bracket in the way

2001 Lincoln Continental 4.6L engine

Alternator replacement

1. Disconnect negative battery cable

2. Drain radiator coolant until coolant has drained from overflow bottle

3. Disconnect overflow hose at bottle

4. Remove 2 top power steering reservoir bolts and position reservoir out of the way

5. Disconnect coolant level sensor and bottom hose from coolant overflow bottle

6. Remove retaining nut and bolt

7. Remove coolant overflow bottle

8. Remove drive belt

9. Remove 4 fasteners from top alternator bracket and remove bracket

10. Remove attachment bolts and alternator from vehicle

11. To install reverse proceedure

12. Fill radiator and overflow bottle

13. Bleed air from cooling system

NISSAN STANZA WAGON - Manual Transmission

Q. Where is the starter on a 1986 nissan stanza station wagon and how do you get to it ?

Due to limited access to the starter, it is recommended that the transaxle be removed when servicing the starter.

REMOVAL:

1. Cold vehicle.

Remove 2 mounting bracket bolts, 10 & 12 mm (Figure 1).

Remove top starter motor bolt 14 mm with universal & long extensions.

Raise vehicle on hoist.

Remove front splash pans 10 mm.

Automatic transmission: Drain 2 qts out.

Remove rt-ft wheel 21 mm., & tie rod (Figure 3), axle cap, cotter pin, adj-nut & rubber washer.

Remove ball joint nuts 17 mm., left lower control arm 19mm. & swaybar bracket 14 mm. (Fig 2).

Remove axle nut 36mm (Figure 4), the front tube, catalytic converter heat insulators 10mm, ctr ex-tube 17 mm., and front tube from exhaust system (Figure 5).

Remove long bolt from ft engine mount (next to radiator), 17mm socket (Figure 6, Item A).

Remove tension rod mount 14 mm. Has adj-bracket with rubber insulators (Fig 6, Items B, C).

Remove right side drive shaft bolts that hold shaft to bracket mounted on engine (Fig7) 12mm.

Remove rt-driveshaft.

CAUTION: Transaxle side seals are cut by spline teeth.

Install hoist type transmission jack and wooden block under the transmission/engine. Be certain the transmission is safely balanced on the hoist.

Remove 5 engine crossmember mounts (3 bolts, 2 nuts) 14mm.

Remove nut that attaches crossmember to engine mount.

Loosen stabilizer bar mounts to allow adequate clearance for crossmember to be removed.

Remove following brackets to allow starter assembly to pass through bottom:

tubular support bracket - engine to transaxle

angled support bracket - driveshaft bracket to engine mount

manifold collector stay - (bottom bolts)

Loosen top bolts, remove bracket above driveshaft-holding bracket 14mm.

NOTE: This bracket is slotted to allow it to slide out without completely removing the bolts.

Remove bottom starter motor mounting bolt.

Separate starter assembly from bellhousing, DC all cables/connectors, remove starter motor.

When installing starter, connect cable, install/torque starter bolts.

1990-93 Accord

1. With the ignition OFF, disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the power steering pump. Refer to Section 8 for the complete procedure.
3. Remove the cruise control actuator but do not disconnect the actuator cable; simply move the unit out of the way with the cable attached.
4. Unplug the multi-pin electrical connector.
5. Remove the terminal nut and remove the wire from the terminal.
6. Loosen the adjusting bolt; remove the alternator nut. Fig. 3: Alternator mounting on 1990-93 Accords
   
   
7. Remove the belt from the alternator pulley.
8. Remove the adjusting bolt, the lower through-bolt and the small support stay.
9. Support the alternator. Remove the upper through-bolt and remove the alternator.
10. If desired, remove the alternator mounting brackets. To install:
    
11. If the alternator brackets were removed, reinstall them. Coat the bolts with a thread sealer or liquid thread lock. Install the bracket bolts and tighten them to 36 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
12. Fit the alternator into place. Install the upper through-bolt and tighten it to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
13. Install the small stay, the lower through-bolt and the adjusting bolt. Make certain the adjusting bolt is properly installed.
14. Install the belt. Install the alternator nut. Adjust the belt tension. Tighten the alternator nut to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
15. Connect the wire to the terminal and tighten the nut.
16. Engage the multi-pin connector to the alternator.
17. Install the cruise control actuator.
18. Install the power steering pump.
19. Connect the negative battery cable.

try not to kill yourself.
You need a spring compressor for this job.
Three nuts on top , two at nuckle , disconnect any brake hoses or wires attached to strut if present ,
If brake hose goes through the bracket on the strut , and there is no options but disconnect brake line , I usually cut bracket carefully the way I can split bracket and take hose out without disconnecting the brake line.But make sure that it cut really nice so you can put it back together with locking spring.
After that , take strut assy. out and COMPRESS THE SPRING (spring compressor) ,after-take center nut on top of the strut out and you done. Memorize the way (mark it) spring was sitting , and sequence
for the parts and put it back together .
Installation - opposit of removal.

PLEASE DON'T FORGET TO RATE!!!!

Removal & Installation

1. Lower the antenna and remove the luggage compartment trim panel.
   
2. Disconnect the lead-in cable from the antenna and ground strap.
   
3. Disconnect the antenna motor wires at the connectors and disconnect the control box connectors.
   
4. Remove the top mounting nut and stanchion assembly.
   
5. Remove the two nuts retaining the antenna bracket assembly to the quarter panel.
   
6. Remove the antenna assembly from the vehicle.
   

Some antennas require a special socket to remove the locknut


Once its loose the nut can be removed by hand. Sometimes it can be twisted off with a needle nose pliers, but that usually ruins the tool


The antenna mounts in the luggage compartment against the support member


The motor and housing sit on a stand that is bolted to the support member


Unplug the antenna lead from the staff tube


Unplug the connector to the motor


Unplug the connector to the relay


Its easier to remove the antennae from the support to gain access to the ground strap screws

To install:
NOTE Correct sequencing for installation is important to prevent water leakage or dimpling of the quarter panel

1. Connect the antenna cable, power connector and control box connector.
   
2. Insert the antenna mast through the quarter panel hole and position bracket on mounting studs in the luggage compartment.
   
3. Install the stanchion assembly.
   
4. Loosely install the two bracket retaining nuts.
   
5. Install the top-mounting nut.
   
6. Tighten the bracket retaining nuts.
   
7. Install the ground strap.
   

Unfortunately, there's a hidden 10 mm nut on the backside/lower part of the Alternator bracket that needs to be loosened before rolling the splined bolt in front, to 75 inch pounds. It was originally made to "jam" within the skinny part of the bracket in the back when loosening it, but it just rolls within the bracket not allowing the belt to be properly tensioned. To preform this operation now, you must first remove the air cleaner box, mass air flow sensor, the hoses and bellows going to the throttle body and only then, can you take a 10 mm open end wrench and place it directly over the nut to help "jam" it while unscrewing the bolt on the front side. In tightening the belt with the 10 mm nut still tight, it will crack the front bracket of the Alternator every time. Sometimes you can't even see the nut, but reach below the power steering pump and to the bottom of the Alternator and you'll notice a "I-Beam" type of cavity on that bracket leading towards the driver's side of the car. Use your little finger to feel it so you can place the wrench directly over top of it...not on it for the wrench will not fit that way. After your belt adjustment is done, you'll have the same problem in tightening that nut back up. Whatever you do, don't take the nut all the way off! It will only lead to your frustration in putting this "Nylock" nut back on. A 3/8" or 1/4" air ratchet works the best on the 13 mm bolt on the front side of the Alternator. Actually, if you don't have a 10 mm wrench, use a thick bladed flat screwdriver to jam the nut, so it won't turn while you're loosening the front bolt.

"00 Buck"

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
   
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Unfasten the retainer(s), then remove the hydraulic flex hose bracket from the strut bracket. If equipped with ABS, the wheel speed sensor cable routing clip is also attached to the strut assembly bracket.

1. Support the rear knuckle, suspension and brake components before removing the clevis bracket-to-knuckle attaching bolts. Do NOT allow the weight of the knuckle and related components hang without support when the strut is removed.


WARNING The knuckle-to-strut attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during removal. Remove the nuts while holding the bolts stationary in the knuckle.

1. Hold the bolt with a wrench, then unfasten the 2 clevis bracket nuts attaching the strut to the knuckle.

Fig. Fig. 2: Location of the knuckle-to-clevis bracket bolts

1. Carefully lower the vehicle, then open the trunk. Access to the rear upper strut mount-to-strut tower attaching bolts is through the trunk of the car.
2. If necessary, remove the carpet from the top of the strut tower. Then, remove the rubber dust shield from the top of the strut tower for easier access to the upper strut nuts.

1. Loosen, but do not remove the 4 upper strut mounting nuts. Then, while supporting the strut assembly, fully remove the 4 strut mount attaching nuts.

1. Remove the strut assembly from the knuckle by sliding the knuckle out of the clevis bracket on the strut, then remove it from the vehicle.

Carefully pull the strut assembly out of the vehicle
To install:

1. Position the strut back into the vehicle with the 4 studs on the strut mount assembly through holes in the strut tower of the vehicle. Install the 4 strut mount-to-body attaching nuts onto the mount studs. Tighten the nuts to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
2. Install the dust shield into the opening on top of the strut tower. Install the carpeting back on top of the rear strut tower.
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
4. Install the knuckle into the clevis bracket on the strut assembly. Install the 2 clevis bracket-to-knuckle attaching bolts and nuts. Hold the bolts with a wrench while tightening the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
5. Install the brake hose bracket to the strut bracket and secure with the retaining bolts. If equipped with ABS, the wheel speed sensor cable routing clip is also attached to the strut bracket.
6. Install the wheel and tire assembly on the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts evenly, in sequence, to 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
7. Carefully lower the vehicle.
8. Have the toe checked and adjusted as necessary.

Sounds similar to a problem I had...felt like a tire out of balance in the 50-60 mile per hour range. I just replaced the front transmission mount and problem is gone. This mount is very visible between the radiator and engine/transmission. There is an aluminum bracket mounted to the transmission with three studs/nuts. The front transmission mount is rubber with a stud/nut from top and bottom. The top stud goes through the aluminum bracket. The rubber around the bottom stud was torn on mine (but you cannot see until removed). First I removed the nut on the bottom of the mount. Then removed the nut on top of the mount...there were small holes in the metal which I placed a small screwdriver into to keep mount from turning. Then I removed the three nuts on the bracket. I located a sturdy area on the bottom of the transmission and jacked it up (do not jack on oil pan). I was able to jack up a few inches until I could wiggle the bracket and mount free without disconnecting anything else. Assembly is basically the reverse. Transmission mount costs about $65.

its held in by the bracket on the botom of it and also the chrome nut arount the top of it... remove the nut from the top and the bolts from the base support bracket and then remove the antenna and power wires.. when installing replacement antenna secure the top nut first. then bolt base and reconnect antenna wire and power plug

there are 4 nuts on the top under the hood where the strut mounts to the fender, remove these. CAUTION:....DO NOT REMOVE CENTER NUT ON STRUT ASSEMBLY!!!!! jack the vehicle up and support with a jack standCAUTION:...NEVER WORK ON A VEHICLE NOT SUPPORTED BY JACK STANDS!!!!! remove the wheel/tire there you will see (2) bolts/nuts for the lower bracket of strut assembley.(one will have a slotted hole and one will have a regular hole in the bracket) using a marking pen, mark the position of the slotted bolt on the bracket(this is for alignment purposes) then remove both bolts Note:... these are metric 18mm nuts . now use a pry bar to move the strut assembly from the hub assembly this will allow the strut to fall down from fender mount. You will now need a coil spring compression tool to remove the strut from the coil spring. Installation is in reverse order. remember do not remove the nut on the strut shaft unless you have the compression tool in place and clamped down....please rate this solution........thanks