SOURCE: bleed brakes but no pedal
Good! You bled the master cyl. before installation! The proper order of bleeding the lines, is to start with the wheel the greatest distance from the master cylinder. Then work your way to the next greatest distance, and last, the closest wheel. Make sure all air is removed from the lines before you proceed to the next wheel, and frequently check the master cyl. level, because, as I'm sure you know, if you **** in air at the master, you have to start all over again. I'm assuming you don't have a power bleeder, so with a helper do this with car running (make sure it's on safety stands and not going to fall on you!) Pump pedal 3 times, no need to mash the pedal into the floor, just 3 pumps 1/2 way down, hold 3rd pump at half way down level while bleeder is opened, when flow is about to stop at bleeder, close bleeder and repeat til no evidence of any air. Let me know how it goes and if you need any help.
SOURCE: Toyota corolla adjust brake pedal reserve
If you have bleed the entire brake system, your most likely problem is the master cylinder.
SOURCE: my 94 c1500 has very
You still have air in the system. You will have to bleed more. I had to bleed a quart of brake fluid out of each wheel to get good brakes on my 1996 GMC.
SOURCE: 95 ford f250 powerstroke brake
You must inspect ALL Brake lines, flexible and steel, and each corner brake. Look for fluid leaks. If everything below is okay, replace the M/C. I suspect damaged cup or bore. do not rebuild, get a new one. Unlikely too much vacuum.
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