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Most hub nuts are usually standard thread but they can be fitted to a ridiculously high torque setting. This means they can be a ******* to get off. The torque is somewhere around 175Nm, (130ft lbs).
The last hub nut I had to deal with needed a seriously heavy duty breaker bar. A high range torque gun can also be effective.
undo the ball joints at the steering arms , loosen off the lock nuts just enough to unscrew the rods
Right hand side right hand thread , left side left hand thread
If you do not move the lock nut back more than 1 thread then you set the lock nut in the same place on the new rod , you will not need a wheel alignment
If you have to take the lock nuts off to fit to the new rods , measure the distance from the end of the rod to the face of the lock nut and position the lock nut at that distance on the new rods
It's a bolt, and if left hand threads, it will be the first time I have heard of such. No pin would be through the threads. Try the breaker bar or impact gun the other way. If engine tries to turn, pull the starter and wedge a block of wood against the ring gear teeth on the flywheel. Don't know about sables, but thought all crank bolts were regular threads.
Those fan nuts are just tough to get off, however it may have "left-hand" threads. If you can see any threads, look straight down at them...if threads are going "downhill" from right to left, then they are common right-hand threads, Lefty lucy-Righty tighty. However if the threads are going "downhill" from left to right, then they are left-hand threads, and you will need to turn the nut "clockwise" to loosen it. Hope this helps....let me know either way!!
It should be a right hand thread, if you put a breaker bar on the bolt and touch the starter, the bolt should come loose. Make sure the bar is up against something solid on the right hand side of the car, not the radiator hose, or your hand. Hope this helps.
THE thread is a std Left hand to undo But you will need a 3/4 drive100 lbs air rattle gun to both undo and redo up the bolt on front pully.. BUT there is another way and that is as you say a big breaker bar and a good socket, but you will have to take off the starter motor and put a good fitting bar into the starter ring teeth and turn it to the top and dont let it slip out of the teeth and once locked into place gently put pressure on and undo the bolt..
But its unusual for the seal to leak on its own as its mostly due to either the front pully has worn a grove in it or the crankshaft bearing is also worn, so check the front pully for wear first. Ron
itll come just use a bigger diameter hose and higher pressure. You can use alil heat if your replaceing the hub and bearing but i still wouldnt recommend it.
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