If the windows don't
work, any of several issues is likely to blame, including no electricity, bad
switches, bad motor, damaged window regulator, or even a broken wire.
Automotive power windows
use a switched motor to operate a mechanical window regulator. This regulator
moves the pane of glass into the door.
To check and confirm the fault try this
procedure:--
1) Open the fuse panel and check the fuses for
disrupted elements. The fuse panel at the driver's side kick panel, or between
the dashboard and the door. In some cars the fuses are mounted in the engine
compartment, in front of the driver's side firewall. Check the fuses and
replace if faulty.
2) Test the wiring
harnesses from the fuse panel to the switches and from the switches to the
window regulator motor. If the circuits test fine, then proceed to the next
step. If a wiring harness is shorted or damaged, it will need to be replaced.3) Remove and test the switches
on the driver's side door panel. Pry them up with a screwdriver and pull them
free of the panel's opening. Disconnect the switch assembly from the wiring
harness by pulling the adapter plug from the assembly. Test the switches
individually by touching both sides of one switch with the circuit tester. Each
switch will have two terminals, and if the tester is positive on both terminals
while the window is activated, then the switch is good. Replace the switch
assembly if any of the switches fails the test. Most power window switches come
in assembled modules and cannot be replaced individually.4) Remove and test (if
possible) the power window motor. Turn the armrest bolts and interior door
handle screws counterclockwise, then pull the door panel free from the pop
rivets. Behind the panel are a window regulator, the window glass, and the electric
driver motor. The motor is usually located in the lower right section of the
door. Unplug the motor from the wiring harness and unbolt it from the window
regulator by turning the bolts counterclockwise. Pull the motor straight out,
away from the gears. And check out if motor is receiving exact 12 volts at the
terminals. If not then either motor is faulty or there is a confirm short if
motor is replaced.
5) If all the above
mentioned possibilities are checked out ok then the window regulator needs to
be checked. Inspect the window regulator's joints for rust or stiff movement,
if the electrical system is operating correctly. These joints can corrode or
break, causing the window to stop working. With the door panel off, the window
regulator can be removed and replaced by sliding the glass away from the track
mounts, then turning all mount bolts counterclockwise and manipulating the
regulator out of the door.
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I have a 4 door 1998 Intrigue. The driver side window & rear window won't move. The passenger side front & back work. How do I get the door panel off to diagnose this?
same thing - 1990 Olds 88 - driver's electric window won't go down. I thought it was the mechanism. Could it be a fuse? The window was slow and would work if you "played" with the switch but finally just quit moving. If it were a fuse would it go fast or gradually?
I have a 2006 Mazda 3 and the same issue! All other windows work but the drivers side took a ****, it goes up and down when it wants to, seems to be more adpt to not move when it's cold. So it is not yet completely dead, could that just be the switch?
I am thinking that the switch is good, as it has good resistance thru an ohm meter. I actually think that, since I had the same problem with the window "sticking" that the motor was just slowly going bad. I can actually say this with confidence, since I have tried bridging the power to the wire going to the motor itself....nothing, not even a twitch. I will prob replace and see if that was the problem.
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