Hi, the PCM relay does run the injectors, but not the ignition. My guess is your ignition switch is stuck closed. You can try pulling up the relay, but I bet you'll still have power to the coils when you do. See if there is power at fuse #7 with the key off--that is a sure sign your ignition switch is closed in the run position. I don't have an exact procedure for replacing the switch, but your looks like the type that is mounted on the column and actuated by a rod running down from the lock. Take the knee kick panel off and see if you can spot it up there. It's held on by 2 screws.
Ignition switch:
Sorry for the delay--so are you saying the switch is good but you can't turn it off because the linkage from the key barrel is fouled? And the plastic part that broke--is that part of the steering column shell? I would think you could get that at a salvage yard or maybe on eBay. The salvage yards usually want to sell the whole column rather than just a piece of one, but it may be easier to replace the whole column than that plastic part. It you can send me a pic of the damaged part, I could better advise you.
OK, thanks for the pic! This is the lock barrel. Let me see if I can find one online.
Excellent photography by the way...I could use more customers like you!
You mentioned a plastic part, but I don't see that so far. Is there a black plastic tab that you had to push down to allow the key to be turned back?
There is a whole column here, but shipping is expensive: http://compare.ebay.com/like/35044417819...
If the 94 model has the same design, here is a breakdown of all the little parts: http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/ful.../...
The part you need may be #70 or somewhere thereabouts. It may be possible to get this from the dealer. I will check.
Here is Ford catalog: http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/Catalo... Victoria#&&/wEXAQUHaGlzdG9yeQUEdHJ1ZbeJQwrDnn1brKWLK+LH7viyyDAr
You may have to cut and paste this link. It has a space in it that violates http URL protocol. I think I see the part you need at the bottom of page 3. Anyway, I think all the parts seem to be available from Ford for a modest cost, so that is where I recommend you get the part. Then let me know if you need help installing it. In the meantime, you may need to remove the negative battery cable to kill the engine and save the battery. OK?
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Fuse 7 is hot as u thought. The switch is new and is removable using the pin as you describe. The problem is that someone must have forced a screwdriver into the old switch and pryed or forced the mechanism inside the housing to break. i can see a plastic piece broken off through a viewing port just above the ignition switch hole. Can this plastic piece b replaced or repaired by removing the inner parts inside the switch hole or does the entire steering mechanism need to be replaced?
Here is the picture.
I sent the picture. The broken piece is under the pen.
Yes
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