Car starts but would not drive pass 20 mph car will start jugging and trying to quite running

Take extra caution while performing dirve cycles on public roadways. Drive cycles can be difficult to follow under normal driving conditions. Begin by: - Start the engine. Idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on. - Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. - Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes. - Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. - Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at ¾ throttle. - Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. - Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. If all other emissions systems are functioning properly, completing the drive cycle above will set the "readiness flags" required to pass the smog check. It will not hurt to perform the drive cycle 2 or 3 times before the smog test.

its probably sticking check where it goes to on your transmission

1. The testing has to start with the vehicle under 122 degrees F. Start the engine and idle for 2.5 minutes in Drive (auto) Neutral (MAN) A/C and rear defogger ON.

2. A/C OFF, accelerate to 55 MPH at 1/2 throttle and then 3 minutes of steady state cruise at 55 MPH.

3. Clutch engaged (MAN) no braking decelerate to 20 MPH.

4. Accelerate to 55-60 MPH at 3/4 throttle and 5 minutes of steady state cruise at 55-60 MPH.

5. Decelerate, no braking to end the drive cycle.

In some cases the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will go into a logic lock not letting the readiness monitors run. Removing the battery cables and touching the two together will normally take care of the logic lock condition.

150 miles at least also check ur air filter change nice clean one

You mean PCM most states read the readiness monitors depending on the state on how many they allow not to be completed. The first one on the list that is hard to get run and pass is the EVAP Because this requires the car to be cold and fuel tank must between 15%-85% and both air temp and coolant temp with in 10 degrees of each other. Start car let idle for 5 -10 minutes Then drive car normally no hard accelerations or quick stops bring speed to 50-60 mph and coast down to 20-15 mph without brake pedal input repeat this twice.Then bring speed to 58-62 mph and set cruise control run for 12-16 miles exit freeway caught a red light or stop and idle 2 minutes shut car off rest for 5 minutes and repeat freeway drive. then redo morning cold start again . then have some one test the generic readiness monitors to what needs to run and attempt again. California before 2000 1 can be incomplete after 2000 all have to be completed which is hard some will not run for 800 miles.

CHECK YOUR AIR FILTER IT SOUNDS LIKE ITS TOTALLY DIRTY ALSO HAVE YOUR GAS FILTER CHANGED IT MITE BE CLOGGED NOT ALLOWING GAS TO GET TO THE INJECTORS ALSO YOU FUEL PUMP MITE BE ON ITS WAY OUT

Try turning HVAC knob to the off position before you start the engine.

possible fuel pressure regulator leaking high pressure fuel into attached vacuum hose

I have the same problem with my bimmer.To find out if the fuel pump problem take fuel pump out and get something kinda nock on the pump put it back in and start the car. It will run but not 1 or 2 days it will die again. You know that mean.Replace the pump.

THrottle position sensor check that.