Question about 2000 Chevrolet Malibu

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My 2000 chevy malibu won't get any gas/electricity to the engine. I just replaced the 02 sensor and head gasket. put new seal in water inlet. It ran fine until the last step listed. It will start when I put starter fluid in but then immmediately shut off. I have gas in the car, the fuel pump is fine.

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  • Chevrolet Master
  • 1,055 Answers

Check the fuel pressure - sounds like either a fuel filter, regulator or fuel pump problem.

Posted on Jan 17, 2018

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6ya6ya

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 2000 chevy silverado 1500 4.3 eng

Chevy Trucks, Blazers, S10 pickup and the like will vapor lock ecspecially the 2000 models. Do not tighten the gas cap past 1 click. There is a tube that runs from the top of the tank down and this gets hot and collapses or burns in half. We just bought a reinforced rubber tube cut it to lengh and use it instead of part and it's worked grat for 2 years so far.

Posted on Feb 01, 2009

Anonymous

  • 295 Answers

SOURCE: HELP! HELP! SOMEONE PLEASE ! 2001 chevy blazer fuel problems

I would check to be on the safe side the fuel filter is going in the right direction. The arrow is pointing towards the engine away from the fuel tank, Then you need to make sure the fuel pump wiring connections are good contact and did not come loose when driving.

Posted on Mar 18, 2009

Bruce Hathcock

  • 3600 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 2001 chevy malibu and it wont start it

fuel pump most likey.

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

blueextc3221

blueextc3221

  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 Chevy Malibu, 89,000 miles, 3.1 engine, won't start

CLICK HERE for the injector schematic.
CLICK HERE for the Ignition schematic.

Since the PCM uses info gatheres from the crank and cam sensors to calculate ignition - and there are no OBD codes - in all likelihood, the PCM itself is bad.

The Ignition Module, also transmits to the PCM.

It appears after all your testing - that the PCM is at fault.

It does not error report on itself (unfortunately).

The ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No adjustment is necessary (distributorless ignition) or possible.

Please see the following....

The ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No adjustment is necessary or possible.
The engines covered by this manual are equipped with distributorless ignitions, ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as applicable. No adjustments are possible. If ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose and repair the problem as necessary.
Ignition timing is the measurement, in degrees of crankshaft rotation, of the point at which the spark plugs fire in each of the cylinders. It is measured in degrees before or after Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke.
Ideally, the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder will be ignited by the spark plug just as the piston passes TDC of the compression stroke. If this happens, the piston will be at the beginning of the power stroke just as the compressed and ignited air/fuel mixture forces the piston down and turns the crankshaft. Because it takes a fraction of a second for the spark plug to ignite the mixture in the cylinder, the spark plug must fire a little before the piston reaches TDC. Otherwise, the mixture will not be completely ignited as the piston passes TDC and the full power of the explosion will not be used by the engine.
The timing measurement is given in degrees of crankshaft rotation before the piston reaches TDC (BTDC). If the setting for the ignition timing is 10 BTDC, each spark plug must fire 10 degrees before each piston reaches TDC. This only holds true, however, when the engine is at idle speed. The combustion process must be complete by 23° ATDC to maintain proper engine performance, fuel mileage, and low emissions.
As the engine speed increases, the pistons go faster. The spark plugs have to ignite the fuel even sooner if it is to be completely ignited when the piston reaches TDC. Spark timing changes are accomplished electronically by the engine and ignition control computers.
If the ignition is set too far advanced (BTDC), the ignition and expansion of the fuel in the cylinder will occur too soon and tend to force the piston down while it is still traveling up. This causes pre ignition or -knocking and pinging-. If the ignition spark is set too far retarded, or after TDC (ATDC), the piston will have already started on its way down when the fuel is ignited. The piston will be forced down for only a portion of its travel, resulting in poor engine performance and lack of power.
Timing marks or scales can be found on the rim of the crankshaft pulley and the timing cover. The marks on the pulley correspond to the position of the piston in the No. 1 cylinder. A stroboscopic (dynamic) timing light is hooked onto the No. 1 cylinder spark plug wire (2.2L engine only, on the 2.4L engines, special adapters are needed) . Every time the spark plug fires, the timing light flashes. By aiming the light at the timing marks while the engine is running, the exact position of the piston within the cylinder can be easily read (the flash of light makes the mark on the pulley appear to be standing still). Proper timing is indicated when the mark and scale are in specified alignment.


WARNING When checking timing with the engine running, take care not to get the timing light wires tangled in the fan blades and/or drive belts.

The engines covered by this manual are equipped with distributorless ignitions, ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as applicable. No adjustments are possible. If ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose and repair the problem as necessary.




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Posted on Aug 18, 2009

Anonymous

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 chevy c15 5.7 SFI SYSTEM

My truck did this after I replaced the fuel pump. Turned out to Fuel Pressure Regulator. It would crank and crank but never start. It's located underneath the black plastic manifold on the side of the injectors.

Posted on Feb 19, 2010

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Well, a faulty water pump could cause the engine to overheat fairly quickly, but additional pressure in the cooling system is usually caused by a leaking head gasket.

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I have a 2002 pt cruiser. I had a used motor installed in it and less than 2000 it starts over heating. After changing the thermostat I was told that the head gasket was blown. I had the same shop that put...


I think the head gasket has blown again. If the head was not skimmed correctly or installed correctly it will blown the gasket again. The fact that the water is bubbling in the reservoir but the gauge staying in the middle means the water is not actually boiling but venting air/gas from the cylinders to the water reservoir. Check for a whitish grey substance in the inside of the oil filler cap indicating water getting into the engine oil. Also with start up - the engine will misfire badly but improve after a while. Take it back to the mechanic as he should guarantee his workmanship.

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My 99 chevy malibu ran out of water and now it will not crank. It makes a grinding sound when i try to crank it, and it also shoot water from engin. i can see water dripping from the motor when i put...


Sounds like you blew a head gasket or even worse. Get a pressure tester from your local parts store and pressure the system up. Most of the time I've found bad intake gasket and the bypass elbows bad. Parts don't cost much but takes a few hours to fix.

Dec 22, 2017 | 1999 Chevrolet Malibu

1 Answer

My '99 chevy malibu ran out of water, and now it will not crank. It makes a grinding sound when i try to crank it, and it also shoots water from the place, i guess, where the head gasket is. I can see...


if ran it with ouut water / coolant for to long possible blew up engine --if water going out as fast as putting in --freeze out plug gone or damaged --head cracked --engine block cracked

Aug 06, 2017 | 1999 Chevrolet Malibu

1 Answer

Replaced the water pump, thermostat, intake seals (top and bottom), had the radiator inspected and flushed, checked the fuses, and took it to the local auto parts store and ran the electrical test which...


You can do a few quick checks: turn your heater on full blast in side the car and start the engine. As the engine heats up, you should feel heat blowing inside the car. If not, coolant is not circulating. No circulation can be caused by an air bubble caught in the radiator after it was flushed. Look inside the radiator to check the coolant level. It should be within an inch of the top. Don't remove the radiator cap when it is hot, you can be burned by steam. Leave the cap off and start the engine. As it heats up you should see movement in the coolant if you rev up the engine. If you find no circulation, the new thermostat may be bad or not opening at the proper temperature. Check the fan to be sure it is coming on as the engine heats up. The fan is electric and is designed to cycle on and off to maintain a steady temperature in the coolant. If it is not operating properly, engine will overheat. Hopefully when the radiator was flushed, the fins were also "blown out" to allow good airflow through the radiator, if not clean the fins with a good blast of a garden hose until all the dirt, dust and bugs are gone. These are simple tests. If the engine has overheated, there is a good chance you may have warped the engine head. This is beyond the repair capabilities of most drivers. Again, simple tests are: pull your oil dipstick. If the oil is frothy and the color of hot chocolate, you have water in the oil. If you can see spots of water clinging to the dipsitck, you have water in the oil. Check your new coolant. If there is oil in the coolant, (frothy brown layer or sheen on top of coolant) you have oil in the coolant. Either condition indicates you have a blown head gasket caused by warping the head by overheating. Blown head gaskets often cause overheating. The fix is to remove the head, have it planed and rebuilt and reinstall with new head gasket. This procedure is complex and expensive. Do it yourself requires a head gasket kit and planing and rebuilding the head. Expect that repair to exceed $600.00. Good luck, hopefully you will find a circulation problem.

Sep 12, 2010 | 2001 Chevrolet Malibu

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