My husbands 97 chevy pick up with the vortex engine stalled while i was driving it the other day acted like it ran out of gas stalled 8 times in 4 miles but then would restart each time we replaced the fuel tank fuel pump and sending unit in February 2011. after it stalled he changed the cap and rotor didnt solve the problem with a test drive ended towing it home.Will not start at all now.Purchases a fuel pressure guage tester yesterday with Haynes manual says fuel pressure should be 60-66 psi. when key is in the on position guage is reading 55# then drops to 17-18# . when cranking the engine over it is reading 40 # then drops. Is it suppose to drop or hold the pressure?

Surges under load but only while going uphill Page1 - Chevy High ...

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Mar 6, 2011 - 14 posts - ‎8 authors
Trying to help out a friend. ... The truck starts, runs, and drives fine until you get to a hill. When going up hill it begins to surge, almost stalling but not quite. ... rubber fuel lines suck shut under a heavy load and act like that. .... tranny fluid level o.k.? ya got me stumped. runs great when it's on a flat surface?

Ford 460 engine - RV mechanic

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Will not take gas going up a hill but will maintain speed at 55 mph. ... Want to do a diagnostic test on my 1997 F250 with 460 engine. ... only get to about 40 miles an hour if i push it the engine acts like its running out of gas,thank you .... The truck hesitates on acceleration, while driving on flat surface is fine, however climbing ...

rough idle, stalling, loss of power. - CarGurus

Check to see if the VAT is causing the hassle and shutting down the ignition after it starts.

I have a 2007 Honda Fit and I had the same thing happen to me. It was soooo frustrating. The first 10 minutes after turning on my car, I couldn't press the break or the engine would turn off completely. It would turn off at stop signs and red lights. But after driving for a little bit, it would break just fine. My husband and I researched a lot online and found a lot of people saying the problem was that it needed a valve adjustment. We were reluctant to pay for a formal diagnosis so we called a couple local Honda dealerships and asked about getting a valve adjustment. They both acted like that was crazy and said Fits don't even need a valve adjustment. I finally took it in for a diagnosis and they called me the next day and said the problem was defiantly the quality of my fuel. They told me to go to Chevron and use Techron. I disagreed with them because I only ever get Techron gas from Chevron so that wasn't the problem. They didn't charge us for the diagnosis but I wasn't going to just pick it up without it being fixed and my husband was sure it needed a valve adjustment. So we took a gamble and had them do it. When we picked it up, it ran perfectly (even with the same tank of "cheap gas"). It's been several months now and it has never turned off on me since! So glad my husband knew what to do and that my car is fixed!

I was given a 1994 s10 Chevy Tahoe vortex blazer??????? It's either a S-10 pick-up or it's a Tahoe or a Blazer not all three . So which is it ?

How about the pick up coil in the distributor? A trick we used to use back in the day was to tap the distributor housing with a hammer, key word tap. If the engine missed or stalled than the pick-up coil was replaced.

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Definitely sounds like a fuel problem. I'd change fuel filter and check fuel pump. If pump is running it could still be partially clogged. Try a fuel rail pressure test with a knowledgeable mechanic.

It sounds like you may have picked up some small debris from the bottom of the gas tank when you ran it empty. You may need to run a fuel/injector cleaning solution through the next tank of gas to clear the debris and consider changing your fuel filter too. Sea Foam is a great fuel additive and I recomment trying it full strength. Hope this helps!

I had the same problem with my 1992 S10 Pick Up. Found the problem to be with the fuel pump. Replaced the fuel pump and it ran like a charm.
The fuel pump is located in the gas tank.

Your battery may be at it's very very end of it's life or is already in the battery heaven and no boosting is going to bring it back. Start with replacing the battery, if the money is tight do what i do and go to the Salvage Yard. The average price there for a good battery is $15,00 to $35.00, depends on the yard. Got mine for $15.00 and it may need to be replaced now, it's been almost 4 years. You want to pick one up that has the highest cold cranking amp (CCA) that you can fit in your car and there is date of service on the battery you want to look for. A bad Battery will cause your engine to stall if it's no longer holding a charge. Start with that and then we can worry about the harder things. Note: if the Volt drops less then 10.5 volts, the ECM will shut down the engine. Good luck and hope this helps. Keep me posted. 

Check the ignition module. My car would run fine until it came up to full temp and then run bad. I continued driving the car while trying to diagnose the problem. It got worse and then one day the car stalled as if it ran out of gas (still had plenty in the tank). I was able to coast it into a parking spot and called for a ride. Upon returning, I tried to start it, started right up and ran fine. On the way home it started acting up again (once it was up to temp). It turned out to be the ignition module.