So my jeep is in horrible condition and my bank accounts are beginning to look the same it had issues running frequent stalls now it will turn over crank and immediately die things I have fixed recently fuel pump and filter exhaust system and piping tps sensor iac sensor crank and cam sensor PCM harmonic balancer timing chain and gears new battery pcv and ccv valves distributor cap rotor primary coil spark plugs and wires and none of the above have fixed my issues when I crank the engine it feels like something is kicking the front of my car and then it dies the entire body shutters and dies.

• Code P0136: O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 2) what can cause it Faulty Bank 1 O2 sensor 2
• Exhaust leak in front of sensor 2
• Intake Leak
• Corrosion in connecter
• Frayed or broken wiring

go to repair shop urgently before its too late............

all stalls end in CEL check engine light on. that is normal
but CEL glow. when engine running , means you had a failure, and it stored DTC error codes, so scan it.
lots of causes. huge list.
get a tune up , tops list.

SCAN it to be sure all sensors work. running.
all fuses in car good.
by stalls , i assume the engine stalls and engine RPM is 0 RPM.
the stall cause the whole dash to light up, all the warning lamps come
on (self test) oil , charge , CEL. come on.
what is important is the stall and the cause.

i will tell you the 3 ways.
lost electrical power to engine EFI system (seems not)
bad engine, (lost compression hot)?
bad spark , spark died.?
bad fueling, lost all fueling (starves and stalls or floods and misfires horribly and stalls (black spark plug tips are big time clue)

if non eof the rings a bell.?
get the car serviced.

this car is newer nicer car, you (we) can scan and drive and log data.
allowing faster easy diagnosis.

check the driveshaft end joints (check when not in tension) and check for excessive play in the differential yokes. Aside from up and down play make sure they do not turn excessively before wheels begin to turn. If you find no problems there then you may have a transfer case problem. End joints fail far more frequently than do transfer case internals or differentials (unless you run them low on lube) So it's a good idea to check them before worrying about large items.

Could be the cps, however it also sounds a lot like a failing fuel pump. Check to see if you can hear the pump running right after it stalls and you turn the key back on. If not, the pump is beginning to bind.

Most frequent causes of that condition are either the fuel pump or the crank position sensor. Both really need to be tested but if when you turn the key to the on position right after it stalls, you cannot hear the pump running in the fuel tank, it's a good bet that is your problem. When the pump is beginning to fail, it gets hot and binds. As soon as it cools down it will work normally. Generally the interval between when it starts back up and stalls again will get shorter and shorter as it gets worse. Pretty much the same thing can happen to cps. That does require testing with a digital ohmeter to validate failure BUT it may read as good if it isn't in a stall condition.

check intake manifold air temp sensor and engine coolant sensor...one may be out of range but not enough to turn on dash light. tests and specs can be found in chiltons or haynes, test is done with digital multi-meter.

check to see if your fuel pump is kicking on. could have some intermiten problem

Timing belt could have skipped a tooth.

Horrible vacuum leak could have started. Listen for suction noises when you raise the hood.

Someone could have poured sugar in your tank.

You could have put diesel in your tank instead of gas.

Could be a bad MAP sensor, TPS sensor, etc.

Need more details to be precise.

As far as the guage issue it is most likely a problem with the body control module, have a trouble code test run on the BCM to determine the issue, the stalling is caused by the loss of the idle strategy learning when the battery went dead, the best thing to do is the following procedure I use to clear this issue.

Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls (or very low idle) near or at idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve, they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.