My wife has a 95 900s and we`ve had it for a few years now and can`t find a mechanic who can find a problem. the problem is when at idle on occassion the car will rev so hard it sounds like it`s going to explode then all of a sudden the rpm`s drop and the car stalls!
Check if your idle control valve is working. if it is stuck open randomly it will definetly have the symptoms you describe. this valve controls idle by allowing air to bypass the throttle body the more open the valve the higher th idle. other sensors such as coolant temp sensor, throttle position sensor and air flow sensors all play a part in sending the computer info so the computer can send a signal to the idle control valve. so check all sensors and connections. hope this helps. p.s. the idle control valve is right next to the throttle body/cable
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More information please. What year is this vehicle? Is this a constant high rev or is it surging high then low and back again? Are you sure it is oil from the exhaust? Using a pair of rubber gloves, rub some of this 'oil' between your finger tips, oil will feel greasy. Sometime soot can form in the exhaust, especially on diesels, and when this mixes with water it can look like oil.
This 'Air Noise'. Is it a whoosh, whistle. hiss? This information can give clues as to where the problem is. Air noises, over rev and oil from the exhaust could be more than one problem. Get a Good mechanic to look at this and to check the Turbo and all the pipes for issues.
Any chance this fault has happened just after topping up engine oil. Oil filler cap not seating properly will give same symptoms. The cap and surround have arrows that need aligned in order for it to be fully seated. Check oil cap first.
That's some mileage you've got on the car. It has obviously been well maintained?
Car engines do surge, Deb. Next time you stand next to a bus or truck just listen to the sound of the engine .. an occasional surge and change in the engine note.
It doesn't sound as if you have anything to worry about
The
following are the general instructions on the start of diagnosing any
electronically controlled engine or transmission problem.
The
engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only
for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the
transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in
most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory
of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as
the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done
is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system
for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for
engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained
technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then
based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the
correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer
replaced (known as the PCM or ECM,ECU), which is very rarely the
problem. Other basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical
problems with the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage
on the engine. The transmission can have mechanical issues as well
such as no gear engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure
related problems. Also engine mechanical problems can and do cause
many drive-ability related problem such as rough idle and other
symptoms.
You got ripped off by the mechanic. A good mechanic can pinpoint the problem by using a scan tool. Take vehicle to autozone or similar and have it scanned for codes this will give you a idea what is wrong. I believe the problem is exhaust related because of the blinking light.
Assuming your engine is in good mechanical condition, there are only a few options.
1. You may have a vacuum leak. 2. The pickup in the distributor may be worn to the point that it is sloppy at idle but normal at higher rpm. 3. Idle control valve/motor may not be working properly.
It probably isn't an ignition related problem as the problem would normally get worse as RPM increases. I've seen #2 about 5 times in the past year or 2 so it's not uncommon and would recommend replacing the entire distributor if you come to that conclusion, but would definitely check all vacuum hoses first.
Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve, they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.
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