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Remove nuts holding master cylinder onto mount. Remove fluid lines carefully, bench bleed new master cylinder then install lines, install mounting nuts then bleed system again applying pressure to clutch pedal several times until no air is seen purging out.
Air in the hydraulic clutch release System. The system consists of the clutch master cylinder, line, hose and clutch slave cylinder. Check the level at the clutch master cylinder. The fill reservoir is along the firewall on drivers side with a black cap. It uses DOT 3 brake fluid. Add fluid if low and pump pedal. If low you have a leak. If full you have a master cylinder internal seal bad so you have to have the master cylinder for the clutch replaced.
Check the level in the clutch master cylinder. If the fluid is brake fluid from the clutch cylinder, you will have to replace the clutch master cylinder. When bad, it is common for them to leak into the car and drip fluid on the carpet.
If you have the tools and so inclined, you can change it yourself. Not very hard,. 2 bolts hold it to the firewall, the pin or clip holding the clutch pedal rod to the cylinder (under the dash), then remove the steel line on the cylinder. (The steel line goes down to the transmission, to the little slave cylinder. After new master cylinder is installed, you need to bleed the slave cylinder to get air out of the lines.)
Open the hood and look for the clutch master cylinder. It is smaller than the brake master cylinder, but should be very near it. The clutch master cylinder is about half the size of the brake master cylinder. Take the lid off and see if it is full. If it is empty, the likely problem is the slave cylinder (which is mounted on the transmission at the other end of the brake fluid line), has failed and needs to be replaced. It will likely not do any good to fill the clutch master cylinder, as you will trap air in the line. The slave cylinder will need to be replaced, and the line bled to get the air out. Be blessed.
I don't know if you have hydraulic clutch cylinder but sounds like it may be bypassing or have air in system. Try bleeding system and checking for pressure when pedal is pushed
hydraulic clutch needs servicing or needs bleeding like a brake system wont work with air in the lines neither will hydraulic clutch's. you shouldnt have to change the clutch just service the slave cylinder ,that should give you back some pedal to use..you might want a mechanic to bleed it or have it replaced.
You've lost the integrity of the clutch hydraulic system. Chances are that either there is air in the system, the slave cylinder or the master cylinder has failed.
First step is to bleed the clutch. See if that's a fix.
A slave cylinder is down on the transmission and is relatively easy to change (only two mounting bolts, one hard hydraulic line, and an accordion-boot covered plunger). When it's changed out, the clutch needs to be bled afterward. If it's a clutch master cylinder, that's where the clutch fluid reservoir is underhood (next to the brake fluid reservoir, just to the right as you face the front of the car). Removal requires undoing the lines coming out of the cylinder, removal of the locating/mounting bolts/studs, and disconnection of the plunger rod from the back of the clutch pedal, way up under the dash. Once it's replaced, bleeding the system is required, and you also may have to adjust the pick-up point of the clutch by turning the nuts on the plunger rod - it only takes a slight turn to change the pickup point dramatically, so go slow with that.
I'd do the slave cylinder first - it's more easily accessible, significantly less expensive, and quicker to change. If it's not a fix, don't feel too badly about changing it since it's only about a $25 part and it is prone to failure, so at the very least, you've eliminated a potential problem down the road. If the slave is not a fix, I'd change the master.
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