Hitch w/electrical wiring brakes

There are several potential reasons why the trailer lights on a 1998 Mitsubishi Montero might not be working:

1. Blown Fuse: Check the fuse panel for a blown fuse related to the trailer lights. Replace the fuse if it is blown.
2. Wiring issue: Inspect the trailer light wiring for any signs of damage or corrosion. If there is damage, repair or replace the wiring.
3. Bad Ground: Make sure that the trailer lights have a good ground connection. Test the ground connection to ensure it's making a good electrical connection.
4. Faulty Light Bulbs: Check the trailer light bulbs to see if they are burned out. Replace any damaged or burned-out bulbs.
5. Trailer Light Connector: The problem could be with the trailer light connector. Check the connector for any signs of damage or corrosion. Clean the connector or replace it if needed.

If you are unable to resolve the issue, it may be necessary to take your vehicle to a qualified mechanic for further inspection and repair.

Check connection and ground. Since the brake light pin on your wiring harness has power, check that the wiring harness ground pin has zero ohms to ground. If the harness is good and the hitch light works on a battery, then there is either a bad connection from the pin to the hitch light or from hitch light to ground.

Does your trailer have a braked trailer hitch?see http://www.angleseymarinesupplies.com/resources/2000KG%20BRAKED%20TOWING%20HITCH%20KNOTT%20AVONRIDE.jpg.opt372x176o0,0s372x176.jpg The wire runs from the hitch to the rear wheels of the trailer and is activated by a spring in the hitch which gets compressed when the vehicle brakes.

Hi, you have a cut or damaged wire between the left tail light and the license plate. This could have been caused by the hitch installation. The hitch is using the same fuse.

Both the ball and the trailer hitch should be grounds so I'm guessing the trailer brakes have a hot wire touching the frame somewhere but not enough to blow a fuse. Before connecting the hitch to the ball, have someone press the trailer brakes and check between the hitch and the ball with a volt meter for 12 volts. If you do then something is wrong with the trailer brakes. I'm just guessing though.

No it's doesn't come with a hitch. To put one on you'll need to know what capacity hitch you need, towing weight of what is to be towed. A wiring harness to connect to the vehicle's brake lights, taillights and turn signals. U-Haul sells and installs hitches.

Depends on what type of two hitch you use there are three class's class 1 and class 2 and 3. since the path finder is about 3000 pounds if you have the class 2 hitch assemble that will bolt up to the frame your could pull 800 pounds without to much wear and tear on the transmission and more importantly the brakes. The vehicle is not designed with a lot of extra brake on board unless you buy it with a hitch so buy the hitch and be sure whatever you pull has electric brakes you will have to adjust the electric brake controller to slightly apply brakes before you pathfinder applies also you need the right tongue weight the reason for this is to keep your rig your pulling from jack knifeing if you have to slam on the breaks. If you have never pulled before this is the highest I would recommend pulling. I have seen people pull as much as 1200 pounds but it's more wear and tear on the van than it's worth. Hope this helps.

Sometime around 2000, GM started putting trailering pre-wire harnesses in the vehicle. Your truck may have this harness built in and would greatly simplify brake controller installation. Look under the glovebox and see if there is a wire harness tied off. There will be four wires in this harness, which should be run over to the steering column to use it. Most trailer brake controllers are compatible with this harness.
The four wires in the harness are: Red, 12vdc; black, ground; blue or purple, brake pedal; and brown or white, trailer brake wire to seven pin, four pin, or five pin connector at trailer hitch, if your truck came from the factory with a trailer hitch.
If you are adding the hitch and do not have the four wire harness, the under hood wires from your brake controller are Red, connect to one of the studs under the distribution box cover (the distribution box is on the driver's side against the firewall. Underneath the cover are two large threaded studs which are hot from the battery all the time); and the other wire from your brake controller would have to be run the length of the truck along the frame, tied off in several places, to the trailer hitch connector on the bumper. Follow the directions that came with trailer hitch wiring connector to connect this wire to the proper pin in the connector.
If this has helped you, great, and please remember to vote/comment.
Good luck!

Disconnect all that trailer connector mess and start over. Someone messed up. Do you have a 6- or 7- way RV connector, a 4- or 5-way flat (U-Haul) connector, or what? Was an electric brake box installed under the dashboard for trailer electric brakes?

Better yet, sell me your Jeep cheap, it probably can't be fixed, and it's worthless.