When in drive .at low rpm i get a irratic idle and loss of power ,using a lot of gas when this happens,if i give it alot of gas it seems to come out of it at high rpm ,wonce it shifts into overdrive it shakes saverly and no power

well gee, there are 50 reasons.
did you scan the PCM yet, if not ,why not?
when the idle surges, that means.
NO RPM ranges stated, if super low rpm check EGR.

1: engine lean and ISC dead, or cant handle the huge engine power drop..The PCM can even make this worse!, buy hunting the ISC to find spec, idle and failing... to...
2: or any of 50 other things causing huge engine power drop and PCM can't maintain idle controls.
super lean burn.(bogging)
super rich burn, misfire for 50 reasons.

i cant hear your engine,nor feel it, or see it shake from gross misfiring.
no can i drive it and see/feel power loss,
can I?
asking net bunny's this (blind as bats)
is "OVER THE TOP" no?
so here , ill toss the dice for you
and guess gross misfiring.
ever get a tuneup this decade, if not bingo , no?

and the others...

http://jeepdied.com/Misfire101.html

link even has the 50 cause list, to show the futility of guessing!
we do 1 to 10 tests. and find it.
for sure.

as you can see EFI systems are complex.
gue$$ is not only expensive but can net you 2 problems easy.

run the fault codes first to find the faulty sensor

Automatic transmission ??
Check engine lamp illuminated ??
Cold engine idle speed ??
Warm engine idle speed ??
IAC (Idle air control) system operation ??

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ralph_2f0886b7d6af32ce

ok , i guess you are saying the engine stalls when I use heavy electrical loads (like head lamps or brakes or even blinkers)
and when you shift from park to drive.
ok , if the engine RPM is 800 before the stall, then that is a total loss
of engine power with lost of idle controls.

The big load is in DRIVE on automatics huge going to DRIVE.

if battery voltage (yes, a 10 buck walfart meter works) can see 13.3 to 15vdc idling at 800 or more RPm.
the Alternator does not work below 800 so , dont expect it to.

so, if rpm in park is below 800 then we fix that first, see why?
if idle drops below 800 this is caused buy many things.
one vital fact missing is you didnt say, if I drive it like a stole it.
that is aggressive right foot. , do you have full engine power, now?
ignoring stalls. (see my drift there, "is engine power good;?)

battery volts above 13.3vdc.
idle at 800 and stalls in DRIVE (shifted)

• low fuel pressure.
• never ever tuned up this decade, with all spark parts bad.
• ISC stuck( idle speed controller (it lets in more air , in DRIVE)
• low engine compression.
• other complex ,fueling issues, (ask) and lots of tests. (ask)

if no tachmeter in car or tool box, repairs get dicey.
hard,
it takes tools to diagnose and fix cars.
go tools? or willing to buy them
if not,? get it serviced.

fuel vent canister especially if you OVERFILLED the tank

check your catalytic converter, and check to see if you have oil in the water or visa versa

buy new spark plugs. i had same problem

what you can do to test the idle control motor, is spray some brake cleaner or other thin, clean finishing solvent on it to let it release when the gas pedal is released. it may just be getting hung up after the vehicle warms. hope this helps

Is the engine light on? Check the air inlet hose between the throttle body & MAF sensor for cracks or leaks. Try unplugging the MAF & see if there is any difference

You will need to change the o2 sensors, your car is running in limp mode (giving to much gas)
Most common problem if you need additional help
hope this helps