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Fairly loud hissing noise under steering column inside and around hydro vac under hood when applying brakes or turning steering wheel. 2008 1 ton Dodge Cummins, 60m miles. No noticable loss of boost. Unable to locate source of noise.
Thanks, Gary
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this might help: Here is the Technical Service Bulletin that maybe of help, worth looking into but can't guarantee that it would fix your problem Steering - Steering Column Clunking When Turning TECHNICAL Bulletin No.: 01-02-32-001P Date: November 25, 2009 Subject: Clunk Felt/Noise Heard From Steering Column, Steering Gear and/or Front Of Vehicle During Turning Maneuver and/or Steering Wheel Rotation (Replace Intermediate Shaft As Directed) Models: 2001-2004 Buick Regal 2005-2008 Buick Allure (Canada Only), LaCrosse 2000-2008 Chevrolet Impala 2000-2007 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1998-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue 2004-2007 Pontiac Grand Prix Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2008 Buick LaCrosse/Allure. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-02-32-001O (Section 02 - Steering). Condition Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the vehicle while driving during a turning maneuver. 1. Locate a large area (parking lot) where the vehicle can be turned in a tight circle. 2. Turn the steering wheel to the right and/or left all the way to the steering lock, then off the steering lock a 1/4 turn. 3. Drive the vehicle approximately 5 km/h (3 mph) in a circle, preferably over rough pavement or seams on the road surface. 4. Drive the vehicle straight ahead at idle speed while applying and releasing the brake pedal. Listen/feel the steering wheel for the clunk/noise condition. 5. If a clunk is felt in the steering wheel, the MOST likely cause is the I-shaft - not the steering gear. Continue with the correction. Correction DO THIS - Replace the intermediate shaft DON'T DO THIS - DO NOT lube the intermediate shaft Replace the existing intermediate shaft
Hi Shelly, Your explanation is a little short on detail. I suggest that you take a length of plastic tubing and while the engine is running, and the hissing sound is evident, place one side of the tube to your ear move the other end to the different units fitted under the dash until the noise is loudest. Once you've done that you can identify where the defective joint or unit is. Regards John
Normally a hissing noise when the engine is running is a vac leak. I'm not aware of anything behind the speedo that would be affected but you might check for vac hoses. Might be the power brake booster leaking vac but that is in the engine compartment.
Hello! There are power steering fluid in/out hoses but no vacuum lines...It sounds as if the pump needs to be bled of air or the belt is loose...Belt should move about 1/2 to 3/4"...Bleeding is as follows... Guru...saailer
ImportantPower steering fluid level must be maintained throughout bleed procedure.
Fill pump reservoir with fluid to minimum system
level, FULL COLD level, or middle of hash mark on cap stick fluid level
indicator.
ImportantWith
hydro-boost only, the oil level will appear falsely high if the
hydro-boost accumulator is not fully charged. Do not apply the brake
pedal with the engine OFF. This will discharge the hydro-boost
accumulator.
If equipped with hydro-boost, fully charge the hydro-boost accumulator using the following procedure:
2.1. Start the engine.2.2. Firmly apply the brake pedal 10-15 times.2.3. Turn the engine OFF.
Raise the vehicle until the front wheels are off the ground. Refer to
Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle
in General Information.
Key on engine OFF, turn the steering wheel from stop to stop 12 times.
Vehicles equipped with hydro-boost systems or longer length power steering hoses may require turns up to 15 to 20 stop to stops.
Verify power steering fluid level per operating specification. Refer to
Checking and Adding Power Steering Fluid
.
Start the engine. Rotate steering wheel from left to right. Check for sign of cavitation or fluid aeration (pump noise/whining).
Verify the fluid level. Repeat the bleed procedure if necessary.
Yes, your brakes are boosted by the power steering pump rather than by vacuum. I don't think it's air in the system. More likely your pump has failed, but you can try bleeding the pump. Here is a procedure from autozone.com:
Observe the following: Use clean, new power steering fluid type onlyHoses touching the frame, body or engine may cause system noise. Verify that the hoses do not touch any other part of the vehicle. Loose connections may not leak, but could allow air into the steering system. Verify that all hose connections are tight.
NOTE
Power steering fluid level must be maintained throughout bleed procedure.
Fill pump reservoir with fluid to minimum system level, FULL COLD level, or middle of hash mark on cap stick fluid level indicator.
NOTE
With hydro-boost only, the oil level will appear falsely high if the hydro-boost accumulator is not fully charged. Do not apply the brake pedal with the engine OFF . This will discharge the hydro-boost accumulator.
If equipped with hydro-boost, fully charge the hydro-boost accumulator using the following procedure:
Start the engine.
Firmly apply the brake pedal 10-15 times.
Turn the engine OFF
Raise the vehicle until the front wheels are off the ground.
With key in the ON position and the engine OFF , turn the steering wheel from stop to stop 12 times. Vehicles equipped with hydro-boost systems or longer length power steering hoses may require turns up to 15 to 20 stop to stops.
Verify power steering fluid level per operating specification.
Start the engine. Rotate steering wheel from left to right. Check for sign of cavitation or fluid aeration (pump noise/whining).
Verify the fluid level. Repeat the bleed procedure if necessary.
Observe the following:
Use clean, new power steering fluid type onlyHoses touching the frame, body or engine may cause system noise. Verify that the hoses do not touch any other part of the vehicle. Loose connections may not leak, but could allow air into the steering system. Verify that all hose connections are tight.
NOTE
Power steering fluid level must be maintained throughout bleed procedure.
Fill pump reservoir with fluid to minimum system level, FULL COLD level, or middle of hash mark on cap stick fluid level indicator.
NOTE
With hydro-boost only, the oil level will appear falsely high if the hydro-boost accumulator is not fully charged. Do not apply the brake pedal with the engine OFF . This will discharge the hydro-boost accumulator.
If equipped with hydro-boost, fully charge the hydro-boost accumulator using the following procedure:
Start the engine.
Firmly apply the brake pedal 10-15 times.
Turn the engine OFF
Raise the vehicle until the front wheels are off the ground.
With key in the ON position and the engine OFF , turn the steering wheel from stop to stop 12 times. Vehicles equipped with hydro-boost systems or longer length power steering hoses may require turns up to 15 to 20 stop to stops.
Verify power steering fluid level per operating specification.
Start the engine. Rotate steering wheel from left to right. Check for sign of cavitation or fluid aeration (pump noise/whining).
Verify the fluid level. Repeat the bleed procedure if necessary.
sounds like your hydro-vac went bad. this is located by your master cylinder inline. it uses your power steering pump to give boost to your brake system instead of a vacumn booster
I have a 2006 Mazda 6 wagon - same car under the skin as your fusion. If you have a telescoping steering wheel, it might be that the grease they used for the steering column is substandard. I just fixed my clunky steering by releasing the telescoping/tilt lever and pushing the steering wheel in and out a few times (i repeated twice after 2 short test drives with the problem improving each time); this eliminated the noise. Blogs for the Mazda 6 indicated this. Give it a try as it's a free fix. If the problem comes back, and some indicate it will, the dealer may need to relubricate the steering column with a better grease. This is the fix for the Mazda6.
You may look or feel the back side of the steering wheel, looking for 2 screws that hold the airbag to the wheel, these will be internal torq type screws (star) you may have to rotate the steering wheel 90 degrees to access the screws. You should first disable the airbag, by removing the airbag fuse, and or by disconnecting a yellow connector located near the base of the steering column. under the knee bolster.(panel below column). Once the retaining screws are removed, lift bag and disconnect the 2 connector to the airbag, the ground for the horn, and the horn contact wire, which requires you to push down and twist counter clockwise, damage to the horn contact ring will occur if you try and just pull connector from the ring. Now you can remove the steering wheel, may require a puller, and the you will have access to the turn signal switch.
power steering pump failing .your truck has the hydro brake booster system.your steering pump control steering and brakes if power steering fail your brakes will also fail.
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