The horn won't honk. What do I need to do to fix the problem. What does it mean to have service ride control show up/

USA SPEC CAR ? (MEANS SOLD THERE FIRST) OR VIN TELLS THIS.
I read the SM, service manual to you, horn schematics.
on 2009 cars, best is check all fuse just in case network errors are cause.
ok no BCM here.
so yes the relay clicks , and closes and honks the horn
shows 2 horns but using ground a23 and a24, got rust there>?
the fuse drives a fuse called HORN
10amp
if you do a 2 mean test, and gay1 honks, and guy2 listens to horn really and you hear it click , that tells you 2 things, horn button good
and CLOCK spring, horn pin not broken
and like magic if it did click, now you found it using EARS.

the book says
engine room R/B and J/B (horn relay)
engine bay fuse box has the relays. not cab.
again USA car left hand drive, not UK or other RHD cars.world wide

did you even look first in the fuse box, or just want us to?
ok did, there is none.

if it has one it marked horn.
not all jeeps have a fuse here, (traditional)
some have an magic electronic current limit on it.
that just works and takes no user actions. ever....
we've used these in industry since the 70s, and is just catching on in the car world. (same on military guns and fuses hate each other, boom , pop no joy, )
did YOU scan the pcm first. (NO)
did you clean off the rust on the bottom of the horn bracket next.
usa horn has 1 horn
outside is 2. (top cause of horn fail , rust near fender at horn)

so my wild guess is you are in USA right. yeah, matters .
the owners manual shows no horn fuse, just read it for you.
The fsm shows, NO FUSE. strike2.
so the FSM schematic shows, the horn driver on page 8w-13-10
found it. its not a FUSE !!!
TIPM page 16 shows the TIPM has no FUSE.
if the TIPM main power fuse blows, massive failures all over car
that mean like i said, the TIPM uses and electronic fuse
it called current regulator, if you short it out, it roll back current
all free, no parts to change and cures its self automatically, with the fault is cleared. Its not a fuse, its current limiter.

so lets play your game the correct way
you say "why is my horn dead. all else works"
I say,
1:scan it first. the scan tool tells you what failed.
2: then tests the horn by hand, (bench testing, )
3:or clean its ground then hot wire it. beeps now.
4: if this all fails the dealer can honk the horn via there fancy factory scan tools, (we cant) and if fails honk the check voltage to the horn if 12vdc the horn is bad ,if 0v the TIPM is bad.
end story.

this a new digital horn, (not actual horn) but the control
are digital, that means the switch for the horn is digital
and the alarms sends , a communication on the network
to sound the horn.
if the TIPM hears the button or the alarm active (network sent)
the TIMP then activates the horn driver electrons
if it cant it records warnings on the scan tool called DTCs.

so short answer
1: get car serviced
2: get car scanned,
there is NO FUSE.
Yes, everyone says check fuses first. but not this car and not that circuit. its and exception to the rule.

replace it from any reliable auto parts dealer.

horn dead, how to fix it?
replace the horn fuse yet for 25cents?:
You can guess, and replace horn then relay then switch.
you can learn to use a voltmeter and not guess.

2 choices there. or get it serviced.,
any volt meter:
1: meter leads across horn contacts (body and pin)
12v honking, horn bad
2. METER on horn relay (if it has one)
it has 4 pins, 2 are coil and 2 are contacts.
coil has 12v honking but no output is a bad relay
if no 12vdc across this relay coil ,means big trouble in the steering
wheel or air bag, clock spring failure or horn switch before that.
now , do not play with air bags in the zone (dash)
or you will be hurt if it deploys.
you must defect the bags first per the fsm the factory service manual tells you how to do this and not get hurt. read it. and win.

login to alldata.com and read
or buy a real FSM and read how to fix the horn, it even has a chapter
called Horn.

FSM = factory service manual

the horn button is dead< and the sounds from horn via the antithieft system is dead too? (mine are defeated on fob clicks, by me.,,)

on my car only the driver can honk. horn.



does car run perfect (other shoe drops) Head lights. not dim

cluster battery lamp not showing charge system failure?

first check fuses , the one labeled horn is top choice.

on mine, its fuse m22 and m23

in the underhood.

Totally Integrated Power Module oi TIPM



did you sCAn it after fuse, if the PCM sees errors to the TIPM above

that can in fact make lots of things fail. so Scanning is always #2.

if you see comm errors,. you will not fix this. get it serviced.

or reset every thing and pray.



my wranger has 2 horns, so its near impossible for both to fail .

(actual horn) but there are many submodels of wrangler and was not stated in your post which one, mines an X.body 2 door.





you can do 2 things, to cars, gue$$ or tests. and danger (air bags)

what do you want to do?

you dont need us to guess. right? our guess is as good as dice roll.

use a voltmeter (walfart $10)

touch the black meter lead to base, of horn (this is called ground)

then the other meter red lead to the horn pin.

honk the horn. if its not 12vdc now, then the problem is up stream.

move the black lead to the car body and keep red same.

and bot 12v now? yes, then the horn base is rusting clean it.

fixed now.

ok got 0v, again? its upstream. problem .



the horn systems are now complex , no more just 3 parts.

switch, relay and horn. ,

it now is digitally controlled. , that is correct.

the horn switch is a digital. device. ONLY.

Flow of logic:

the horn switch closes.

the 2 wire close and goes to the dash cluster controller. (brain)

this brain sees the switch closes and sends a CAN-buss network

serial command (called comms) to the TIPM

the TIPM then sends 12vdc to the horns, via fuse 23.

m22 is right

m23 is left horn fuses





on mine the relay can not be changed,

open the TIMP box, mine is hinged to front, dumb idea if ever.

the under that lid are all fuses names and relay names.

the words like like micky mouse wrote them , weak, and blurry.

on mine, there is no horn relay. (must be a high power transistor driver in the TIPM electronics board.



so now lets play dealer or ASE shop. just one example.

he sees all horns dead, full time. all ways from sunday.

he checks fuse m22, m23.

when honking, the horns do not get 12vdc to them.

he hot wires one horn (disonnected) it honks loudly.

ok horn is good.



he then checks with his scan tool that the horn switch is in fact working and sees the CAN-buss sends out the command.

to honk, it does.

but why does it not honk, ?

he then checks TIPM programming to make sure its not scrambled.

it\'s not, so the TIPM is bad.

he pulls battery neg (oops lost nav and radio codes ! read FSM on this)

and then removes the TIPM and puts it back reseating it.

and retests. it fails. (hope and luck can happen)

but it didnt.

the TIPM is bad.





how is that.?

the horn is simple , a horn a relay and switch, and fuse 15?.

but is complex by other factors.

1: the clock spring . no air bags in 1991, so very easy.



there are 2 ways to diagnose any horn..

1: hot wire it, does it now honk? if yes, hot wire the relay does it honk now?

2: or use any voltmeter ever made and find out why.



#2 is the save way.



id hot wire the horn and make sure that 1991 ground bolt

mount is really still at ground potential. id bet that bolt has

long sense rusted, and is useless, like most are by now.



the fuse and relay are both in the PDC

the PDC means, engine bay fuse box in gringo. (non jargon)

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service

here is 93 for free.

see horn page one and the 2 tests.

or see the schematic.

at there, see the fuse box see fuse 15 (PDC 15?)

same chapter, see PDF page 90 (sheet33)



as you can see if the fuse is good.

12vdc arrives at the Horn relay on 2 pins.

if the horn switch works the relay ENERGIZES (closes)

and 12vdc arrives at the horn, and it honks

if while honking, the horn casing is 12vdc,

then means the horn is no longer grounded, a common happenstance.



if the relay dont energize check the horn ring contacts or connectors to it for continuity.

the relay can be tested, in the car.

like this.

honking

pin 2 and 5 are 12v

pin 1 = 0 volts

pin 4 is 12v, if 0v the relay is bad.



easy huh., ?

bad horn switch or security system when nuts.
you will need the FSM to diagnose this, complex it is.
owning a hybrid means , close by toyota mechanics. all the time.
complex to the extreme. read the FSM , it NY telephone book sized.
be the first clue.

but can be diagnose. we look at the 2 inputs to the horn relay
is either active, at horn honk time
if its the horn line then its bad
if its the security system that is bad.
if its a PITA, pull the relay. end honks for ever. or horn wire.

they mixed up the light wiring with the horn wiring, they're the same connector. lol !!! I'm sure you got it fixed already.

did anyone touch anything.

One honk means all doors are closed. Door ajar you have 2 honks telling you a door is open. My 03 Explorer has had the door ajar light on for awhile