I have a 2002 mit. galant 2.4l, my car is not getting a spark at all i change both coil packs, spark plugs, cam postion sensor, crank postion senor and there is not spark at all on my car, timing belt is good it cranks but it just wont turn on.

Well, you probably fixed it or gave up by now, but I'm facing a similar problem. I initially thought it was just my fuel pump, but it turns out that these are the conditions:
* Fuel pump not functioning
* Ignition system not functioning
* Fuel injectors not functioning
* Check engine light *not* on
To cut to the chase, I finally did the "free rental" of a diagnostic code reader from O'Riley's and the stupid thing had a diagnostic code, even though the light wasn't on. It said "crankshaft position sensor" and I began disassembling the timing belt covers to get to it and discovered my timing belt was coming apart. It had apparently either ripped out the wires from the crankshaft position sensor or it slipped, I haven't determined which one yet. Either way, you can pull off the cable going into one of the the ignition coils and stick a 12v light between two of the wires (I forget which) and when you turn the engine over, if the light doesn't blink, it's not getting power.

One of the pins is always hot and one of them is pulled to ground by the powertrain control unit (PCU), which is located behind the glove box and AC/heater blower assembly, against the firewall. However, I suggest getting the code reader first to find out if it actually has a legit reason for cutting off your ignition. If the PCU goes bad, it's $950 from the dealer and between $100 and $200 from eBay. Well, you probably fixed it or gave up by now, but I'm facing a similar problem. I initially thought it was just my fuel pump, but it turns out that these are the conditions: * Fuel pump not functioning * Ignition system not functioning * Fuel injectors not functioning * Check engine light *not* on To cut to the chase, I finally did the "free rental" of a diagnostic code reader from O'Riley's and the stupid thing had a diagnostic code, even though the light wasn't on. It said "crankshaft position sensor" and I began disassembling the timing belt covers to get to it and discovered my timing belt was coming apart. It had apparently either ripped out the wires from the crankshaft position sensor or it slipped, I haven't determined which one yet. Either way, you can pull off the cable going into one of the the ignition coils and stick a 12v light between two of the wires (I forget which) and when you turn the engine over, if the light doesn't blink, it's not getting power. One of the pins is always hot and one of them is pulled to ground by the powertrain control unit (PCU), which is located behind the glove box and AC/heater blower assembly, against the firewall. However, I suggest getting the code reader first to find out if it actually has a legit reason for cutting off your ignition. If the PCU goes bad, it's $950 from the dealer and between $100 and $200 from eBay.