Should the tensioner plate move while the engine is running. Engine bay has been recently cleaned, believe dirt to to be on belt, hence noise, but since looking have noticed the tensioner plate seems to be vibrating when running. Citroen Dispatch 2.0 HDI 2004 Regards Mike

Hey, Make sure the vehicle is on a flat surface and the engine is cool. Disconnect the battery to prevent accidental starts. Before removing the old belt, note its routing across the pulleys. Some vehicles have a diagram under the hood. If not, take a photo for reference. Most vehicles have an automatic belt tensioner. Use a serpentine belt tool or a suitable wrench to move the tensioner, relieving tension on the belt. Once the tension is relieved, slide the belt off the pulleys. Carefully remove the belt from the engine bay, making sure not to damage any other components. Route the new belt around the pulleys according to the diagram or your reference photo. Ensure that the belt sits correctly in the grooves of the pulleys. While maintaining tension on the belt, use the tool to move the tensioner again and slip the belt into place. Once installed, give the belt a few turns by hand to ensure it's seated properly and running smoothly over the pulleys. Double-check that the belt is properly aligned and tensioned.

I hope this will help you kindly double check before starting your car

Sounds like your belt tensioner or idle pull bearing froze up on it. Take belt off and check those components. Hope this helps

Did you recently replace the belt? If so, did you get the right belt ( not to short or to long). If not, was there any noise before it stopped moving? If the belt hasn't been touched, then it sounds like another component has seized and isn't allowing the belt to move. You could have oil, transmission oil, or anti-freeze on the belt / pulleys allowing it to slip. Belts become glazed with age and also need to be replaced. I would start with checking all the pulleys for smooth noise free operation, then clean all the surfaces, and change the belt. I like the Goodyear Gator belts.

Sounds like you have a serpentine belt that has locked up and burnt or broke. Probably due to an accessory like alternator AC, compressor, idler or tensioner failure.

Hello, There are several things which can do this. First, cut off the A/C and then rev the engine as before. If the chirping goes away, the noise was either the A/C clutch or the Serpetine belt slipping with the load. For the A/C clutch, you can try a little rust removal between the drive plate and the pulley with the engine OFF. You can use sandpaper and try to knock off the rust. Then put a little oil on to condition the metal. Then try it with the A/C on.

If the chirp is still there, you have to check bearings on the Pulley tensioner, Alternator, Water pump, and Power steering. It is possible for the Pulley tensioner to have a weak spring or you may have a stretched Serpetine belt. This condition would cause the belt to skip under a load. If the belt is checked with small cracks, just replace the belt. Take off the tensioner and compare the spring tension and wobble in the pulley to a new unit at the Autoparts store.

If still no success, the chirp could be a water pump bearing. The old way off using a piece of wood on the housing of a part while the engine is running is dangerous, but effective. I believe you should have already found your problem before this measure is needed. Dry Serpetine belts make quite a lot of noise and is probably your problem.

I hope my Solution is very helpful to you.

hi this could be numerous things, you need to clarify that it is coming from the engine bay, but normally, this is the sign either of a slipping worn serpentine belt, as the engine runs, the belt is slipping and hence the squeal noise, or it might be one of the pulley's, like a tensioner pulley, or even the water pump if the bearings have gone u/s, there's a couple of things to look at first, hope that helps please vote thanks

Misalignment of the belt, incorrect belt, worn or loose tensioner, Too tight of an adjustment (many service centers do this on purpose so when the belt breaks in it becomes properly adjusted, I do not believe in this philosophy), The belt is actually one long belt called a serpentine belt.....

Do you have a digital camera? Take pictures of your engine bay,especially the belt routing and save them to your computer for later viewing.
Next push down on your belt with enough pressure to see which pulley arm moves.This is your tensioner,if you put a box end wrench on the bolt of that pulley you can push down on it and release the tension on the belt for removal.
Then look at your pictures as to how the belt was originally installed.You'll need to move that tensioner enough to replace the belt.After replacing the belt make sure it's on 100% before starting the engine.

2.4L Engine
NOTE You may need DRB scan tool to perform the crankshaft and camshaft relearn alignment procedure.

1. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   • Negative battery cable
     
   • Right front wheel and inner splash shield
     
   • Accessory drive belts
     
   • Crankshaft damper
     
   • A/C compressor/alternator tensioner and pulley assembly
     
   • Lower front timing cover
     
   • Upper front timing cover
     
   • Right engine mount
     
   • Engine mount bracket
     
   
   NOTE This is an interference engine. Do not rotate the crankshaft or the camshafts after the timing belt has been removed. Damage to the valve components may occur. Before removing the timing belt, always align the timing marks.
   
2. Rotate the crankshaft until the Top Dead Center (TDC) mark on the oil pump housing aligns with the TDC mark on the camshaft sprocket (located on the trailing edge of the tooth).
   
3. Loosen the timing belt tensioner lock bolt.
   
4. Insert a 6mm Allen wrench into the hexagon opening located on the top plate of the belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the top plate clockwise until there is enough slack to remove the belt.
   
5. If necessary, remove the camshaft timing belt sprockets.
   
6. If necessary, remove the crankshaft timing belt sprocket using removal tool No. 6793, or equivalent.
   
7. Place the tensioner into a soft-jawed vise to compress the tensioner.
   
8. After compressing the tensioner, insert a pin (a 5/64 in. Allen wrench will also work) into the plunger side hole to retain the plunger until installation.
   

Camshaft and crankshaft alignment marks—2.4L engine




To lock the timing belt tensioner, be sure to fully insert the smaller Allen wrench into the tensioner as shown—2.4L engine





Installation of the timing belt, notice the camshaft alignment— 2.4L (VIN B) engine


To install:

1. If necessary, use tool No. 6792, or equivalent, to install the crankshaft timing belt sprocket onto the crankshaft.
   
2. If necessary, install the camshaft sprockets onto the camshafts. Install and tighten the camshaft sprocket bolts to 75 ft. lbs. (101 Nm).
   
3. Set the crankshaft sprocket to Top Dead Center (TDC) by aligning the notch on the sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing.
   
4. Set the camshafts timing marks so the exhaust camshaft is 1/2 notch below intake camshaft sprocket. Make sure the arrows on both camshaft sprockets are facing up
   
5. Install the timing belt starting at the crankshaft, then around the water pump sprocket, idler pulley, camshaft sprockets and around the tensioner pulley.
   
6. Move the exhaust camshaft sprocket counterclockwise to take up the belt slack.
   
7. Insert a 6mm Allen wrench into the hexagon opening located on the top plate of the belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the top plate counterclockwise until there is no slack on the belt. The tensioner setting notch will start to move clockwise. Watch the notch and continue rotating the top plate counterclockwise until the setting notch is aligned with the spring tang. Using the Allen wrench to prevent the top plate from moving, tighten the tensioner lock bolt to 220 inch lbs. (25 Nm). The setting notch and spring tang should remain aligned after the lock nut is tightened.
   
8. Rotate the crankshaft 2 revolutions and recheck the timing marks.
   
9. Check the spring tang is within the tolerance window. If not within the window, reinsert the Allen wrench and into the hexagon opening located on the top plate of the belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the top plate counterclockwise until there is no slack on the belt. The tensioner setting notch will start to move clockwise. Watch the notch and continue rotating the top plate counterclockwise until the setting notch is aligned with the spring tang. Using the Allen wrench to prevent the top plate from moving, tighten the tensioner lock bolt to 220 inch lbs. (25 Nm). The setting notch and spring tang should remain aligned after the lock nut is tightened.
   
10. Install the engine mount bracket.
    
11. Install the front timing belt covers.
    
12. Install the A/C compressor/alternator tensioner and pulley assembly.
    
13. Install the right engine mount.
    
14. Install the crankshaft damper
    
15. Install the accessory drive belts and adjust to the proper tension.
    
16. Install the right inner splash shield and wheel.
    
17. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
    
18. Perform the crankshaft and camshaft relearn alignment procedure using the DRB scan tool, or equivalent
    

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sounds to me like the belt is just sliding on the crank pulley. Could be a separated harmonic balancer. Check the big pulley on the bottom.