It has a hard time starting, once started it runs great, no idling problems, I asked about the ISC motor and have another question about it, does it make a intermittent clicking type noise when the engine is not running? I am on a low fixed income and want to make sure that if the ISC motor is the culprit as the costs for this part is nearly 200 dollars. Thank you for your help

which engine the 4AFE or 7AFE toy engine.
?????????????????????????????????
but runs with the fast right foot , trick , right?
and runs perfectly if you keep the right foot happy, right?
all key factors in any engine diagnosis, but im not driving it so.....??

the cars EFI uses a device called and ISC,
this is idle speed controller.
if it sticks closed, it makes starting hard, and hot starts insane hard.
if it sticks open , hard starts, and when does screams.
some time the iSC is ok, but the engine runs so bad, it can't do its job.

clean the iSC. then test it. make sure it works. perfectly.
the FSM book covers this.
in fact that toyota engine, Toyota has huge documents on line
better that any car made !!! on how all this works....
Toy rules this roost.

hint on your car, lie (fib) and google search 4AFE (if it is)
Search "Toyota 4AFE iAC or ISC)
and find vast information on IAC and ISC>
some cars have 2 valves , one thermal one electric.
the thermal iAC is only working below 150F.
toy name Aux air? your car has both. 4A

the iSC is electric idle controls. (ECU runs it)
ECU controls it at all times, ECU keep idle correct at all times.
in many cases IAC means ISC,

rule 1 on all otto cycle gas engines.
idle is the last thing to work right.
on EFI , its under control at all times.
but if the engine runs bad, it goes out of control.
IS THE CHECK ENGINE warn, lamp glowing running, ????
yes, why not get the DTC codes, (flash error codes now)
when it runs bad, is it misfiring, and shaking engine, weak power from engine,, bogging, or only stalling.
low rpm is near stall and is same thing.
1500rpm is perfectly normal for any cold engine.
Hot , its not.
first off check all fuses.
The idle controls are called ISC, "idle speed controller"
its a slave valve and ECU logic and servo controls.
the ECU works overtime , keeping idle right.
if the ISC sticks, it fails.
if the EGR sticks open , the ISC loses control
if the you get intake (induction) air leaks it loses control
same for misfire, gross, flooding. same for gross lean.
so how do we do this? find a cause.\
easy we give that long missed 60,000 mile tune up.
and during that i clean the ISC and EGR main valves.
on any old car like this, wow, its sure to be a mess, if not serviced.

then make sure the EGR main is closed,
engine hot.
i see if my ISC is trying to work.
i then check my fuel mixtures. to see if the engine EFI
reaches and holds closed loop.
oops, it cant be cause the 0xygen sensor died, 100k miles ago.
its dead.
no OTC scan tools for 1995 ( sure hackers have em)
so is very hard to get this information, i use a scope to watch my oxy sensor, if stuck rich i fix that first. if stuck lean , i find the exhaust crank causing it. or other cause... long list of tests.

in a real shop the start at the tail pipe end, OMG this puppy is rich as a pig and work forward, is start at the oxysensor
i get it working by any means.,
then fix idle if not already magically working. as most do (cleaned)

here is a very common example.
1: EGR sticks open at idle. IDLE RPM drops like rock. ( it must)
2: ECU sees illegal RPM and opens the ISC fully, to no avail.
some cars EFI hunts the ISC causing surging.
others ECU just slams the ISC wide open and does a software hope thing. in this case, does nothing,due to gross EGR misfire effects.
the idle controls are a SERVO,. a closed loop servo system.
it regulates idle until , something horrible happens.

it fails when conditions are outside it's range of Authority.

why ignore the CEL??????
you cross over the spark wires. lost firing order.
its not PVC but is due.
sure, lost spark, lost spark time, crossed wire.
if spark is good try test fuel
clean the EGR, if it sticks open car will never idle fast.
and will stall.
clean the ISC do the ECU can in fact now control idle.

you are are on track, most here are not.
you did a tune up, that is good , and is first.
bad fuel, car parked for year, dead?
now the 1 question, (after it runs)
can your happy right off save the stall
only this counts..... 1st....

check firing order now that wires are scrambled.
then check for spark on all 4 cyl spark wire ends.
then if spark is good,
and compression, good, 150 not 80psi
you do know this is and inteference engine right? and if not
fresh timing belt the engine will grenade. for sure.
dont listen to dorks telling you, mine didnt, they are idiots.
if you like Russian roulette ? and $3000 new motors are joy?
then skip the belt.

that finishes off a 60k turn up, spark , filters and da belt.
then spark timing.
then fueling.

all the fuel in the world is useless on a dead motor or dead spark'.

fueling is last.
if motor and spark are good, then yes, fueling
try test fuel (spary)
if that works for duration of spray
then check fuel pressure
that be next.
and more... ask

a GM suzuki swift.
G10 or G13 engine? both are EFI no carbs here, in USA. 95.
last carb usa 1994 Isuzu.
OLD gas goes bad clogging that Injector or if MPI ? injectors.
Old spark plugs cant burn old gas, like a double bad effect.
give a tuneup> last decade?
Nix, that sEA-Floam, use Chevron, Techron injector cleaner
its got the REAL clearer called Benzene, costs more but is MORE.
all that said , i never use additives. (snake oil ever)
after all cleaning and injection system correctly is hard work.
so I offer this comment based on, (fast and dirty fix)

sure, ISC dirty, they love to jam parked for a year.
EGR and PCV gasses, there form gunk,
Gunk cloggs, ISC, valve, (electric) idle speed valve
i cant drive car, see if right for overcomes a dead isc easy
if the lower RPM is from MISFIRE< i can hear it and feel it.
and Misfire has over 50 causes, spark plugs bad tops the list.
when it wont start to the operator guide , stated unflood method work. cranking wide open throttle, work?
I bet the PCV is clogged to. valve

steam, is a whole other matter, non of which is good
do a hard leak down test?
new head, was it milled (shaved) or put back not checking
for warp-age like the Service manual directs?
warped head bust be de-warped using baking oven.
Ask your machinist this is knows this very well on alumin, heads.

Id work steam issue, hard and not drive too far, like that,
Most heads replaced, DIY fail.
for 2 reasons,
not dewarped, and not surfaced correctly and other reasons.

2000 Durango,No code thats okay we have the symptom that all we need. Stall when hot.So it stall at idle or if you decelerate then it also stalls.and it start right up. The 2000 Durango is equipt with a ISC (idle speed control motor) and this is mounted on the throttle body.This maintains a target idle speed.The ISC also uses a desired MAP for deceleration.Your solution is a throttle body cleaning,or a ISC (idle speed control) motor.This is the only thing that can cause what is described

long post.
ill reduce it for you.
misfires. (is RPM below 700 then misfire can be normal) for idle speed controls dead.
ISC the isc controls speed, of idle,.
mine stuck like zillion times, in 400k miles. endless.sticking
mine was a tiny gutless stepper motor drive ISC valve.
the cone valve is side gets nasty and sticks (
(PCV gases caused as seen on all engines)
i clean it.
the proof is the easy press of right foot easy raises idle back to 700rpm and engine stops misfiring.
ever get a tuneup this decade or running spark parts 500,0000 miles
for the new world record.?


now the tricky part of ISC, , fully explained in the SM serv. man.
the PCM learns its behaviors.
it learns all hot start settings and cold
so when you key on, it goes to the correct HISTORICAL spot.
if it can move there(sticks) engine car race.
or run too slow,
cold start would be worse, as hot isc is more closed
so if sticks there closed, the next cold start will be horrid
some newer manuals telly you to add 5% throttle if car is hard starting this is so common.

clean it. end story.
ISC

You are in the right area. First I would check that the throttle interior along with the plate itself is spotlessly clean along with the access passages to the ISC. I would remove the ISC and ensure the the valve likewise is spotlessly clean and has good freedom of movement. Plenty of clean cloths and WD40 spray help in the clean up. Make sure the electrical connector withe ISC is clean and tight with no breaks in the loom. Test the engine when all cleaned up and if the idle is still problem then, and only then, consider changing the ISC.

Try setting the idle speed up a little--the racing cam in this engine will not allow idle very well at best. An improvement in the ignition system performance will help starting. This engine wasn't made to poop around in traffic.

FORD IDLE AIR BYPASS

Ford doesn't use idle air bypass to regulate idle speed on its older throttle body (CFI) applications, but uses a solenoid or vacuum diaphragm instead to open the throttle linkage. Idle air bypass is used only on multipoint injection applications. On older pre-OBD II cars, codes 12, 13, 16, 17 & 19 all indicate idle speed is out of spec (too high or too low). Codes 47 and 48 indicate a fuel mixture problem which could be caused by an air leak. On OBD II vehicles (1996 & newer), codes P505 to P509 indicate a fault with the idle speed control system.

The diagnostic procedure when any of these codes are found is to turn the engine off, unplug the ISC bypass air solenoid connector, then restart the engine to see if the idle rpm drops (it should if the ISC solenoid is working). No change would indicate a problem in the motor or wiring.

The ISC solenoid can be checked by measuring its resistance. With the positive lead of a digital volt/ohm meter on the VPWR pin and the negative lead on the ISC pin, measure the resistance of the solenoid. On many applications, the spec calls for 7.0 to 13.0 ohms. If it is out of specs, the ISC solenoid is bad. Also check for shorts between both ISC solenoid terminals and the case.

If the ISC checks out okay, check for battery voltage between the ISC connector terminals while the key is on. Voltage should also vary when the engine is running. No voltage indicates a wiring or computer problem.

engine coolant temp sensor is most likely cracked.. I know it sounds strange but pull it if your looking at the engine it is on the right side of the head Will make the car hard to start, smoke, and the idle will often race up and down.. easy to fix 15 dollars or so..