Rust (metal oxide) never held anything that tight, what you are dealing with is scale - the stuff that is formed when an electrolyte comes into contact with iron or steel and it begins destroying it and in the process it changes the dimensions of the item, making some things smaller and some bigger.
The best thing to hit a reluctant brake disc with is a large dead-blow mallet, usually after heating the disc for between 2 and 5 minutes with a medium propane torch.
Bear in mind the shock of hitting it will be transferred to the wheel bearing which will survive but will not be improved by the experience and ultimately the life of the bearing could be shortened. Because of this it is best not to strike the disc aimlessly but to make every blow count.
Once the old disc has been removed the new disc must be fitted to a thoroughly cleaned hub mounting face, bolted into position and the axial runout checked. For quality work 0.002" is the limit and for old cars and rough work 0.004" If the axial runout exceeds 0.004", sooner or later a brake judder is likely to develop.
Are you in an area where they really salt the roads a lot ? It could be rusted. IF that is the case, you can soak the contact areas with some rust cutter. Let it set as long as you can. I'm guessing you are doing a brake job, so soaking the pads won't matter.
Here's a video on removal -
How to Install Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors 2007 09 Chevy Equinox
Very common and due to rust. Soak it with WD40 and let stand overnight and then use a large blunt object to knock it loose.
SOURCE: I have a 1979 Chevrolet
Remove caliper and nut to axle should come of with a little help of a rubber hammer. Knock bolts out from the front and drive new ones in from the back. You can use a lugnut with the flat side down to help pull them in and a hammer to help. Hope this helps.
SOURCE: Rotor cap on my 2000 dodge durango stuck and will not budge.
take a pair of channel locks and rotate it back an forth until you dislodge any material that is wedging it in position
SOURCE: 2006 Silverado - remove front rotors
Yes the torx screw must be removed and you are right the other two threaded holes you can use two bolts screw them in there after you remove the torx and it will push the rotor off the hub and the best way to remove the torx is with a impact driver it is like a screw driver you change the bits but you hit the end with a hammer which the tool then twists and removes the srew you can find them at any tool store prolly even autozone... and if you dont use bolts to push the hub off just use a brass hammer and pound off the rotor
SOURCE: how to remove and replace front brake rotors chev colorado
Time to buy yourself a good shop manual. You say it is both a 2006 and a 2008.
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