I have a 94 4runner,while i was driving the motor quit, found out it's not getting any spark,i have checked the coil and igniter pack ohm's resistance and are within spec's. I've checked all fuse-able link's,and relay's. A friend has a 95 runner and i took all the relay's, ecu,coil, igniter and plugged them into mine and still nothing.

How to Tell if You Have a Faulty Coil Pac How a Coil Pack Works When creating a spark at the spark plug, the fire must initiate from a high voltage supply, so as much fuel as possible burns in the cylinder. Whenever the combustion process is started, the coil pack builds up the energy, as much as 50,000 to 75,000 Volts. When the electronic control module (the car computer) sends the signal to the ignition control, the voltage is released from the coil pack through the spark plug cables to the spark plug.
When the spark travels to the spark plug, it jumps from the spark plug gap to the ground, causing an explosion of the fuel air mixture inside the cylinder chamber Coil Pack Problems Usually, if a coil pack is bad, there will be a loss of fire or spark in one or more cylinders. This causes what's commonly referred to as misfiring. Misfiring can cause drag on the crankshaft, and usually results in a very poor performing engine Common Symptoms of a Faulty Coil Pack A faulty coil pack will generally have symptoms similar to a faulty spark plug. Some of the most common tell tale signs that a coil may be defective include:

• A rough idle
• An unexplainably louder-than-usual engine
• A noticeable lack of power
• A significant drop in RPMs while accelerating for no apparent reason
• A blinking or intermittently activating check engine light
• An active gas warning light when the vehicle has plenty of gasoline
• Smoke from the exhaust emitting intermittently, instead of in a steady strea How to Test a Coil Pack Fortunately, there is an easy way to test the coil packs in your vehicle and make sure they're working as they should. You need to use ohm meter to test the coil pack for continuity. Make sure you have the approximate ohm values for the coil pack. To find this information, research your car's engine on the Internet or purchase a Chilton's or Haynes manual to find out what the mega ohms reading on the coil pack should be. What Coil Pack Works with a Rotary Engine? Most rotary engines require a different type of ignition coil pack. Below are two, one for a standard replacement, and one that is a higher voltage performance type coil pack.
  Original Equipment Replacement
  Beck Arnley is a well known name in the automotive ignition parts industry. They are favored by many mechanics, especially those that work mostly on import cars. The Beck Arnley 178-8025 rotary engine coil pack is a direct replacement for original equipment parts on older Mazda cars with a rotary engine. You can expect to pay about $55 for one.Performance Replacement
  M&W Ignition Systems is a fairly well known name in the import performance market. Their part number PAK005 is a high performance ignition coil pack for the performance enthusiast who isn't afraid to spend a little more on a high quality high performance part. With prices running around $245 for a double coil pack for direct fire ignitions, these coil packs will deliver years of excellent performance.
  When ordering a coil pack for your rotary engine equipped car, you need to know the year and model as well as the engine displacement to ensure you are given the correct parts.

You don't tell us what car you are working on, but generally get parts store to test ignition module, use ohm meter to check cam/crank sensors and coils.

check for lose wiring plugs check crank sensor and ignition modual or coil pack if these check out all good then have ecu checked by a specialist

TIMING BELT BROKEN!!

The fuel pump has nothing to do with spark,common sense

Why would you listen to anyone-- except an experienced
mechanic at a repair shop?

The computer only grounds the ignition system, to
turn off the ignition coils primary windings & collapse the
secondary field windings, to create the spark at the plugs

You need to know what your doing

You need a good blue spark & also know how much
voltage you have

I suggest you don't check anything your not knowledgeable
on,as you may ruin some module or the pcm through improper
testing methods

The fuel pump only runs 3 seconds if the PCM sees no crank
signal

You can check injector pulse as well as spark

If you keep cycling the ignition key ,you fill the cylinders
with fuel & possibly hydraulic the engine & ruin it

I think a repair shop is in order

You did not provide any information on the engine model, whether the misfire is intermittent or consistent, or what you have done to diagnose the problem as a misfire. I'll have to give you a general troubleshooting guide rather than an exact diagnosis. I'll assume you have in some manner determined that you are not getting spark on one or two cylinders.
1. Assuming you know which cylinder is misfiring, remove the spark plug and inspect it for fouling, wear, or breakage. If the plug looks good, measure the resistance between the center electrode and the connector cap. A resistor-type plug may read in the 100,000 Ohm range; a straight-through plug will read much less than 1 Ohm. If it reads infinite (open), the internal resistor is bad. If the plug is worn or the gap is too large, correct that. If it is fouled, you need to investigate and remedy the cause of the fouling.
2. If the plug looks good, measure the resistance of the spark plug wire. It should not be open. It may have a substantial resistance if it is the radio interference suppression type.
3. If your engine uses a mechanical distributor, inspect the cap and rotor, and replace if needed.
4. If your engine uses a multi-coil pack system, and you have a miss on two cylinders connected to the same coil, the problem is either the coil or the ignition pack. Compare the resistance of the coil terminals to ground with the other coil(s).
5. Another possibility is a problem with the ignition driver module. Usually these quit completely (the most probable failure is a coil drive transistor short, followed by a blown fuse), but it is possible for a single output to quit.

check with inline spark tester between the coil and the plug wires for fire. also check the sparkplugs for a fouled out condition. if all checks out then check the coil with ohm meter. unplug the ignition wire connector from the coil. there should be 3 terminals on the coil. connect the ohm meter to the center pin and the other to either outside pin to check primary resistance. then using the ohm meter check the secondary resistance by connecting one end of ohm meter one tower on coil and the other end of ohm meter across to the opposite side of coil to check resistance. primary resistance--0.95- 1.20 ohms secondary resistance-- 11,300 to 13,300 ohms. if it does not check out then replace the coil.

it could be anything but i would say you should check the ignition coils first. you can do this by testing the resistance in the coil packs. make sure the engine is off and the key is not in the ignition. if you set your voltmeter to ohms take the 2 ignition wires off of one coil pack. touch your voltmeter lead wires to the 2 posts on the ignition coil. it should read 4000-8000 ohms if you have a bad coil it will usually be close to 0 ohms. do this test for all coil packs. each coil pack ignites 2 cylinders so if you have a v6 you will need to test 3 packs and 4 packs on a v8

If you have a volt/ohm meter, you may want to first ohm check the resistance between the two spark plug towers on each ignition coil pack. Simply remove the spark plug wires from each coil pack and test. Both (if good) should test about the same resistance, (about 5-7 kOhms, but I don't have the exact specs handy on this particular vehicle. The reading may be higher, maybe around 7-12kOhms) but nonetheless, the reading of the 1-4 coil pack should closely match the 2-3 coil pack. If not, the new coil pack may be faulty and should be returned for a replacement.

Also, when you remove the 1-4 coil pack, take a look at the primary spade connectors (2 lugs) coming out of the ignition module. Make certain these are clean and free of rust or corrosion. If so, simply (and gently) use a finger nail file or 400 (or equivilent) sandpaper to file the corrosion off and re-attach the coil pack.

If one or both of these don't fix the problem, you may have to look at replacing the ignition module. But only do that after exhausting the other simpler and less expensive tests! :)

I hope these tips help you out or at least point you in the right direction! :)

Check the wiring and make sure your getting 12V to the module (under the coil packs) when the ignition key is turned on. If you have 12V then ohmmeter the coils. The primary side is like .5-1.5 ohms and the secondaries are in the 7500 ohm neighborhood. If all this checks out OK the module would be the culprit.