Earl that ended back in the 70s; there are NO caps. and the battery does not go dry on any USA car, with calcium lead batteries, Delco called then freedom batteries back in 1970 and is now on all cars. OP what is IT, what told you that, must we guess. btw the volts are good. 13.3 to 15v is spec, running.
The car you have, no engine stated, my guess 2.7L V6 H27, the PCM saw the battery voltage drop too low cranking (in Alaska?) or you ran it low. (lights left on) or pulled the battery, so reset the DLC using a scan tool and see if the error comes back , no not good, if yes, then the battery may be weak(get it tested,
next time say what IT means.
the cluster display
the scan tool
or what the Autozoned guy yelled his shoulder.
he didn't state what the reading was from... so i gave him a lead to where to get it load tested for FREE
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If the caps are removeable from the battery, check and fill with distilled water
check battery terminal connections and clean corrosion from them
check drive belt to the alternator to see if it's stretched / worn
but you really go to get a charging system check and battery load test... free at my local autozone or advance auto parts
i'm guessing if those volts are just for the battery while the vehicle is NOT running, we can't really tell until the tests are performed.
the charging system / alternator / drive belt may be starting to get worn and/or the battery is not holding a charge (is it the original battery? cause anything over ~6 years and some batteries will go bad)
earl are you 100 years old.? caps ended long ago, 1970, why ask someone to dig up acid on a freedom battery , calicium lead , is never done like this. ever. why advice such wild risky actions?\
he has a modern car and yes,these new cars cry every time the battery volts dip too low, for many reasons. even too cold.
apparently some of those batteries have removeable caps still.... depending on which brand
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SOURCE: Alternator or Voltage regulator
if you can carefully put a metal wrench on the rotating pulley of the alternator and felt a magnetism attracting the metal wrench, then your alternator is charging. if there is no magnetism, then the alternator is not charging...
another test is to measure the voltage on the small wires that went in to the alternator that says "F" for field, it should measure battery voltage...that is the voltage from the regulator..that means your regulator is working...but the altrntor is not..
without that battery voltage, then the regulator is he culprit...
pls be carefull...
hope i was able to solve ur problem..
pls rate me.. tnx, drcool..
SOURCE: Service Charging System
DONT START THE CAR///IGNITION ON//PRESS THE GAS PEDAL DOWN 3 TIMES SLOWLY//THEN START THE CAR. THAT RESETS THE COMPUTER AND THE CHARGING SYSTEM WARNING LIGHT.
SOURCE: Alternator charging problem
well if the alternator is not putting out at least 13 volts when it running most likly its bad i would take it some place and have it checked again
SOURCE: MX5 not charging battery. If i disconnect the
usually cars stall when running and the batterie is removed, indicating a bad alternator.
perhaps your batterie is bad
SOURCE: cadillac escalade ext will not start dic message
A battery can read 12 volts yet be weak in cold cranking amps, try a jumpstart and if that works have your battery load tested. Im betting your gonna find the battery fails the load test, meaning it needs to be replaced..
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Did you solve the problem? could you email me please [email protected]
those readings if engine not running may be OK, but put under load, you'll see it drop below 9.X Volts, it's a weak battery. and there's usually a date of manufacture code sticker on the side
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