SOURCE: How do I replace tailgate handle
I just finished replacing mine. It took about an hour. Here's my step by step.
1. take off the two outside bolts on the inside of the tailgate behind the handle.
2. Now gently pull off the cladding around the latch. It is still held on by two christmas tree style holders.
3. Tie some long ropes to each of the two rods that the handle pulls together. You don't want them getting away from you.
4. Now free the rods from the plastic clamps. This is the point of no return. Mine would not go back together. A small screw driver shoved in from the end along the seam will pop them easily.
5. Now remove the remaining 3 T40 bolts on the back of the tailgate.
6. The handle assembly is now free to come out. Hold on to it as you lift the tailgate back up. Don't shut the tailgate all the way.
7. Work the old handle out. I did not take any of the cladding off. It took about five minutes of gentle manipulations to get it out. I did have to pull on the metal tongue that comes up right in front of it.
8. Pop the replacement plastic clamps into their corrent places in the new handle. Hinge side down. Don't fasten them.
9. Put the new handle in the same way you took the old one out.
10. Attach with the 3 T40 bolts. Dont fully tighten, just snug. I would recommend some blue loctite as well.
11. Now shut the tailgate so that it latches. Place the pull rods in the plastic clamps and fasten them. Don't pull on the rods, just put them in the clamps.
12. Your door should work now. Try it a couple of times. Pull on both sides of the tailgate to make sure each is held tight. If so, tighten up all the bolts, put the cladding on, and your done.
13. If your door won't latch, the rods are being pulled together too much. Undue the plastic clamps, push the rods apart and reset them in the clamps.
SOURCE: How to install rear hatch door struts on a 97Astrovan
in case you havent figured it out, or for the next person that needs help. . .
i needed to replace my rear window struts.
i stuck a flathead screw driver in each of the metal clips at each end of the strut and pryed them loose. the struts popped right off the mounts. i also unscrewed the rear speaker panel so i could remove the wire connecting the strut to the car (rear defroster?) and remove completely. i wanted to take the whole unit to the autoparts store and compare it to the new strut. when buying replacements, i noticed the new struts did not come with the electrical housing on the upper end, just a male thread. i was stumped because i couldnt get the housing off of the old strut . . .i didnt want to damage it trying.
i finally i got the nerve. all it took was a pair of channel locks (pliers). grip the rod tight enough to unscrew the housing from the rod. after breaking loose, it should come right off easily.
i realized after that i didnt need to open the speaker panel and disconnect the wire. i probably could have just unhooked the strut and unscrewed the housing (while the wire remained connected to the van), screwed the new strut back into the housing, and reattached the strut to the van.
installation is the opposite of removal. i also read on a few sites that its a good idea to replace them both at the same time.
SOURCE: how to remove a 1999 civic se left door panel
You'll need to remove screws that are by the door handle, arm rest, under door and side of door and then gently pull back on the panel as there will also be retaining clips attached and you don't want to break them. If needed, you can pull back the weather seal (can't reuse it, but it's not that important) and you will be able to access everything inside the door
SOURCE: 1987 toyota 4runner tailgate window stopped working
If you haven't already done so check fuses and all the obvious stuff first :P
The switch inside the truck and the key switch on the tailgate work from a ground source. That ground can be interrupted by 2 safety switches relating to the tailgate window operation. 1 safety switch is the top removal switch which is depressed when a specific bold that holds the fiberglass top is installed. It is located behind the drivers side trim panel in the cargo area about half way back from the rear seat. When you take that bolt out and take the top off you cant roll the window up. This is however most likely not the problem.
The second switch is actually inside the drivers side tailgate latch. This was the culprit when I had the same problem and seems to be a likely point of failure. First off, remove the switch for the window from the center consol and check the connector for ground on the common contact (usually center but check them all). If there is no continuity to ground then this is a sure sign that one of those safety switches is faulty (assuming no broken wires). You can check the first switch but is most likely a waste of time.
To remove the tailgate latch you first need to get the tailgate open and if your window doesn't work it needs to be rolled down first. Using any small gauge wire attach one end to a ground source and touch the other end to the connector contacts for the window switch you removed. One of the contacts to ground will roll the window down, the other up, and the third will do nothing that you will notice.
After the window is down, lower the tailgate and remove trim panel and everything else necessary to get to the drivers tailgate latch and remove it. It has a 2 wire connector attached to it. After it is removed place a jumper in the 2 wire connector and test your console switch for ground, if it has a ground then that was your problem.
I cant remember if the glass was in the way but if it is you can roll it up with the tailgate down with the jumper method above just have a friend lift the glass as it comes out so it doesn't damage or scratch it and have it braced with a table or something. Don't let the glass out with the tailgate down without helping it, it isn't designed to do so and could damage stuff.
When I pulled the latch and took it apart it was full of mud, I even removed the very tiny switch from it and took the switch apart to clean it. That part was very difficult because the parts were very small and not meant to be pulled apart very easily. The little contact was no larger in daimeter then a #2 pencil lead and only a 1/4" long and spring loaded when you open the switch. I cleaned everything, put it back together and it worked great.
That is until now, 2 years later it started doing the same thing again. I took great lengths in sealing everything to keep mud out and everthing and it only lasted 2 years, oh well. In short, it may be expensive but a new latch assembly might be a good idea. I have to do this job soon myself... again.
I would check for this problem before looking at the relay control because the relay control is a little more difficult to get to.
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