I have a LEXUS GS300 1993 . It looks like the hood cable has come unattached from the hood latch. I pulled the hood release lever and it did not spring back into place. I tugged on the cable and it came out about 5 inches. There is no resistance on the hood cable from with int the car. Does anybody have any ideas on how to release the hood for a Lexus GS300 1993 ?

SOURCE: Lexus GS300 oil change

check this forum out

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=35469

SOURCE: hood latch won't release

This has happened to me several times, this will take two people, but all you need to do is have one person pull the hood release, while person number 2 pushes down on the hood, and then pulls up...that ought to do the trick

SOURCE: 1994 Lexus LS400 Broken Hood Cable - Hoe could I replace?

you have to route cable along the fender side under the hood like on battery side. you have to run it where it wont get in contact with drive belt.your cable has a ball of metal at the end of it.your hood latch should have a clip where you put your cable in it.you should not have to remove nothing.just drop cable in place.

Jun Magno

• 175 Answers
• Posted on Jun 03, 2009

SOURCE: Hood latch disconnected

small plastic tie straps will do the trick

SOURCE: 98 lexus gs300 codes p1120 p1121

I wanted to start a thread specifically about failures within the throttle body concerning the GS300 (1998 in my case)

My symptons were:
VSC, VSC OFF, and ENGINE Lights would come on, followed by my car going into Limp Mode, where only that last 25% (if that) of the throttle would respond (basically have to floor the pedal to even move at all).

During the mornings, or when the engine was COLD, the throttle operated normal...then once the car warmed up, usually at about 10 mins, the problem would start...it happened intermitantly at first...1 or 2 days over the course of a week, then it became more consitent, until last week it became a daily problem.

The first part I tried was the Throttle Position sensor, which is on the front side of the throttle body, and the easiest thing to replace...this didnt help at all. $300 part from Lexus, $80 part from RockAuto.com (exacly same part toyota OEM)

THE PART THAT FIXED THE PROBLEM:
===========================================
"Idle Valve Motor", which is the larger electrical object next to the TPS on my 98 GS300. Problem is solved.

The Codes I got were P1120 and P1121 - Accelerator Sensor problem. However it wasnt really the Accelerator Sensor, it was indeed to actual electrical Motor that controls the opening of the Butterfly valve inside the Throttle body.

I found the problem by good old trouble shooting, and using an ohm meter to see if the throttle electric motor was getting elev, I found that the elec motor just to the left of the TPS was basically freaking out and shutting down. The Accelerator Pedal Sensor is on the Back-side of the throttle body where the throttle cable connects to, and has a spring on it. It was fine.

GS300's are indeed "drive by wire" concerning the throttle...the cable triggers the Accel Pedal Sensor, which sends a signal to the ECU, the ECU then sends power to the Idel Valve Elec Motor (next to the TPS), which opens and closes the mechanical butterfly valve, then the TPS sensor detects how far the elec motor is actually opening the butterfly valve...its a closed-loop feed-back system, meaning any failure in any sensor will cause the entire systm to fail.

The throttle cable apparently is ONLY there to allow the fail-safe of having that last 10-25% throttle when the electronic system fails...there is a gearbox inside the throtle body which allows the tail end of the throttle to manually engage the butterfly valve...the rest of the time, the butterfly valve is 100% opened and closed via the idle control motor.