2002 Grand Am 3.4L automatic. Engine will not crank. It will crank if you jump a wire from the battery to the starter solenoid but will then still not start and run. Swapped relays around with no effect. Passlock problem? Nuetral safety switch? How do you test or bypass the nuetral safety switch?

Make sure solenoid wire it connected and good. Try jumping the battary wires at the solenoid to see if solenoid is bad. The starter should crank when you jump wires if not replace solenoid.

if the battery is good.
and charged.
then the solenoid jumped will crank engine,(not start if you keep keys in pocket)
if that hot wire test fails and the battery and its lugs not green.
then the starter is bad.
try using a fresh known good battery first.
or jumper cable (AAA style) jump start it off a running donor car.
if the hot wire fails now, the starter is bad or the enigne is siezed.
can you spin the engine by hand, (using a socket and breaker bar , keys again in pocket::>?)
battery >>>>>>cables>>>>>starter.
this is all it take to crank the engine, just that. if you know how to hot wire a solenoid, do you? the switch below is just a jumper wire or even old screwdriver blade.
http://www.fixkick.com/starter-hotwire.jpg


battery needs to be 12.6vdc rested, is it ? or more.
less is discharged(and normal temps, not -40F)

the oldest GC.
see photo below... jumper at J.
as you can see security has zero to do , here.
if hot wired. zero.

engine will not crank.
if it dont crank it can not start. nor sustain and run.
the first steps are:
1; check all fuses.
2: jump cable start engine, s
starts now, then the battery is weak ,dead or JUST discharged.

the battery must read 12.6vdc rested or its weak.

if jumper fails to start car.
we then hot wire the starter solenoid.
no crank now, the starter is bad
yes, cranks now, the key line is dead
see the 83 tricks here, for making it start.
http://www.fixkick.com/nocrank.html#tricks

same for hot wire trick, (test)

no crank
1: battery dead, not charged. does it jump crank?
2: bad battery (corroded clean em) cables lugs. (4 ends)
3: bad starter /solenoid, assembly
4: engine seized, (turn it by hand you cant?)
5: bad key line, (from key switch to PRNDL to stater , no connections)

jump start it, if passed test, battery bad/discharged , and if fail?
you then (battery is good)
hot wire the starter solenoid, keys in pockets
fail? yes, bad starter, seized engine. turn by hand , now you know.
if passes hot wire test, bad key line. (tiny wire)

easy huh?

COMMON CAUSES OF NO-CRANK NO-START

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Heres a good test to test the solenoid and the starter, make sure the car is in park and turn the key on, using a screw driver jump the solenoid and see if it spins the engine or clicks, if you look at the solenoid you will see a small wire and the two connections for battery cables,locate the connection that the battery goes to ,the other big connection will be the cable to starter, take the battery connection and jump it to the small wire connection, if it clicks then you must have a bad starter or bad connection at the starter, also another test is to turn the headlights on and try to start the car while someone watches the lights, if the lights go out then you have a bad connection at battery or the ground to engine. start with these tests and let me know what happens, good luck.

When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

hit the starter with a hamer if it starts then the starter is rooted

Is your battery is fully charged, your clamps on your battery clean and tight? Try this put your headlights on crank your engine if lights dim serverly and you hear Click..Click...Click..Your starter/solenoid is shot.If it srarts with a jump with the other car racing it's engine it could be your battery does not have the cranking amps.You can try to tap the solenoid with a handle of a screwdriver, or quickly jump the wires on the solenoid and see if the engine cranks.Good Luck