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Sir i have a problem in om 403 v10 engine i wnt to know the correct injection pump timing ,, marking FB ...... and my problem in the flywheel side the are marking,, 0,T,,,,05,,,,10,,,,,!5,,,,,,20,,,,,,,,25,,,
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Timing a Ford 7500 turbo backhoe involves adjusting the timing of the engine's fuel injection pump. Here are the general steps to time a Ford 7500 turbo backhoe:
Locate the timing marks: Look for the timing marks on the engine's flywheel and the timing cover.
Clean the timing marks: Clean the timing marks to ensure they are visible and easy to read.
Rotate the engine: Rotate the engine in the direction of normal rotation until the timing mark on the flywheel lines up with the pointer on the timing cover. This indicates that the engine is at Top Dead Center (TDC) on cylinder number one.
Remove the fuel injection pump: Remove the fuel injection pump from the engine.
Adjust the timing: Rotate the fuel injection pump until the timing marks on the pump housing line up with the timing marks on the engine. The exact timing specifications may vary depending on the engine and fuel injection pump model.
Reinstall the fuel injection pump: Reinstall the fuel injection pump and secure it in place.
Verify the timing: Rotate the engine again to make sure the timing marks still align correctly.
Test the engine: Start the engine and test it to ensure that it runs smoothly and efficiently.
It's important to follow the specific procedures and timing specifications provided in the engine's manual or by a qualified mechanic. If you're unsure about timing your Ford 7500 turbo backhoe, it's recommended to consult with a professional mechanic or technician.
The best way to begin would be to find and accurately mark TDC. This is only possible by using a dial indicator on top of the timing cylinder (usually but not always No 1). Access to the piston top can often be achieved by removing the injector and a few engines have a facility to attach a probe for timing purposes.
Once there is an accurate TDC mark the next thing is to measure the circumference of the flywheel and calculate and mark the exact distance BTDC of 3 degrees.
Measuring the flywheel is not an option if the engine is installed but counting the teeth of the flywheel ring gear is a suitable second option and it is fairly easy to calculate how many degrees apart each tooth is...
if the pump is gear driven you will have corresponding timing marks on the idle gear and the crank gear
the degrees on the flywheel are are fine tuning the pump injection timing
If it is belt driven look for timing marks on the timing housing or block and make sure that all timing marks ( crank, cam ) all line up as well
you haven't given which make , model,year of engine type of fuel pump, make of fuel pump and the only clue is the flywheel
the injection timing mark is normally denoted as a lightning symbol and you will find it anywhere between 14 degrees btdc to 22 degrees btdc
or it will be set at the degrees btdc r recommended by the manufacturer
It has to be exact because after that mark will be down on power and too far advanced will melt pistons
if you know where the timing marks are supposed to be the use the old method of cam/crank timing to check and adjust to where the marks will be. Remove no 1 injector and turn the engine over until no 1 piston is coming up on injection stop when you reach TDC. mark on flywheel of harmonic balancer. If there is valve clearance ot both rockers turn the engine another 180 degrees and bring the piston to TDC again. watch the rockers and if you turn back a few degrees or turn forward a few degrees you will see ( in the forward direction) the exhaust valve closing and at the same time the inlet valve will be opening. This is known as valve rock. As you move the piston bacvk and forward over TDC you will see the valve movement. set on TDC and check the timing marks with the positions indicated. Remove and reposition the cam shaft gear to achieve the correct mark alignment or pull the cam shaft out just enough to realign the teeth to the mark. At the most you will be about 1 tooth out. The pump timing will be out 180 degrees as you are setting the valve timing on the induction stroke and you will need to turn the engine 180 degrees to compression stroke for the pump timing marks to line up. the injection mark on the flywheel is what you are looking for and when it is at the correct number of degrees as indicated by injection / lightning flash sign then the marks for the pump should be just about lined up
I have been doing research on the Delphi pump and it apparently is associated with lucas/cav and as such is timed by the use of a dial test indicator that, through the use of a plunger and cam, runs on the cam block in the pump and determines when injection begins. Initial timing is to set the flywheel on the injection timing mark and the pump flange mark set on the timing case mark. To get it exact I would recommend that you have a diesel pump shop do the timing using the correct tools. As the pump is not electronic as such (from my research into Delphi ) it is basically a manual injector with a electronic controlled governor. Any way the best advice is to have a pump expert set the timing.
Instructions Things You'll Need:·Set of quarter-inch drive sockets Quarter-inch drive ratchet Set of half-inch drive sockets Half-inch drive air gun Set of metric wrenches Special tools for holding camshaft timing #2065-A and injection pump #2064
Step 1 Remove the accessory drive belts and the accessory drive belt tensioner. Remove the upper timing belt cover and the valve cover. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the No.1 cylinder is atop, dead center, with the flywheel timing marks aligned.
Step 2 Install the special tool setting bar (#2065-A) on the rear of the camshaft. If it does not fit, turn the crankshaft once more and line up the timing marks again in the hole of the transmission housing.
Step 3 Insert locking pin #2064 into the injection pump to hold it in position. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolts, the crankshaft pulley and the lower timing belt cover. Loosen the tensioner pulley nut and allow the tensioner to move away from the belt. Loosely tighten the nut to hold the tensioner out of the way. Remove the top guide pulley and the timing belt.
Step 4 Make sure that the timing mark on the flywheel is lined up and that the camshaft setting bar and injection locking pin are in place. Loosen the camshaft bolt a half turn and tap the sprocket with a soft mallet to loosen it off its taper. The sprocket should move freely. Install the top guide pulley and torque to 18 foot pounds of torque.
Step 5 Install the new timing belt, starting on the right side and working counterclockwise. Keep the tension on the right nontensioned side. Loosen the tensioner pulley nut. Using the two-pin wrench, turn the tensioner pulley clockwise until the notch and raised mark are aligned. Torque the tensioner pulley nut to 15 foot pounds of torque. Make sure the flywheel timing mark is still aligned.
Step 6 Torque the camshaft bolt to 33 foot pounds of torque. Remove the locking pin from the injection pump and remove the camshaft setting bar. Turn the crankshaft two turns and check the alignment on the flywheel. Make sure that the setting bar can be inserted easily and that the injection pump locking pin can be inserted. Install all components in reverse order of removal and torque the crankshaft bolt to 18 foot pounds of torque.
My Recommendation - Pay an authorized VW mechanic $500 to replace the timing belt water pump an tensioner, and sleep better knowing that the job was done right. Just too many places for a novice car mechanic to screw up.
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below the cam gear on the side where your belt snapped is where the V notch that is an upside down cut away on the metal backing plate behind the gear nearest the cylinder head matches up with a cast block with a ball bearing in the middle in the 6 o clock position on the cylinder head. looking at it on the right side it is a cast almost machined straight edge up and down. On the left of the block it is something like C shaped. if you drew a circle and then on the right side cut one third of it off with a straight line, put a steel ball in the middle about 5 mm thick, that is the mark for the engine timing and you need nothing else, no TDC on the Crankshaft etc.
on the back of the fuel pump flywheel there is a key way type notch square looking cast into the wheel. it is about 2mm x 2mm in size. this gets lined up with the cast aluminium mounting for the injection pump. there is on the outer most point of the casting that the injection pump in mounted on a horizontal line cast into the very outer most point possible of the casting. This horizontal line matches up with the key way type notch on the fuel injection pump flywheel.
It still needs to be timed but you wont bend any valves breaking the injection pump.
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