The torsion bar suspension on my 99 silverado is bottomed out. I know about adjusting the torsion keys but the driver side was tightened all the way in since new. Do I need to replace bars, keys, or what can I do?

Your 1993 S10 can only be lowered by using drop spindles or lowering springs.

No, your Honda does not have "torsion bars". You have a coil springs to absorb bumps and give the suspension compliance. A torsion bar was used on many Chrysler products and older vehicles. You may be confusing "torsion" bars with "sway" bars. A sway bar links suspension from side to side to keep the vehicle "flatter" in corners as an aid to handling.

IF THE AXEL IS THE TYPE THAT HAS THE BAR GOING RIGHT THROUGH FROM SIDE TO SIDE THEN YOU WILL HAVE TO BUY A COMPLETE UNIT.

Hello! First diagram is the lower...Second is the upper..Guru...saailer

LOWER IDENTIFICATION:




Item
Part Number Description 1
5495 Stabilizer Bar Link Bolt and Bushing Assembly 2
18A192 Nut, Washer and Bushing Assembly 3
808264 Bolt 4
5005 Frame 5
5B326 Torsion Bar (LH) 6
5B327 Torsion Bar (RH) 7
620481 Nut 8
5C491 Nut and Washer 9
3079 Front Suspension Lower Arm (LH) 10
3078 Front Suspension Lower Arm (RH) 11
3A130 Tie Rod End 12
808166 Nut 13
808167 Nut 14
5K483 Front Stabilizer Bar Link 15
5482 Front Stabilizer Bar 16
5484 Front Stabilizer Bar Bushing 17
3B353 Front Stabilizer Retainer 18
N807396-S100 Bolt A
- Tighten to 40-55 Nm
(30-40 Lb-Ft) B
- Tighten to 150-200 Nm (111-148 Lb-Ft) C
- Tighten to 21-29 Nm
(15-21 Lb-Ft)


UPPER IDENTIFICATION:
Item Part Number Description 1 3C156 Damper Assembly (RH) 2 805348 Nut and Washer 3 - Shock Absorber Insulator
(Part of 18198) 4 3C157 Damper Assembly (LH) 5 3020 Front Suspension Bumper 6 3083 Front Suspension Upper Arm Assembly A - Tighten to 34-47 Nm
(25-35 Lb-Ft)



LOWER DIAGRAM FOLLOWED BY UPPER:



I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

Aint much to a torsion bar, it has 2 identicle ends. Both ends are hexigon shaped. And only one adjustable screw, one for each side. Tighten it, and it will raise the front of your vehicle, loosen it, and it lowers the front of your vehicle. All torsion bars are not equal, so a set amount of turns to adjust is not a fix all solution. Mine is 10-1/2 turns from first thread contact, but, you need about a 1/2 inch of clearance from lower arm to lower bump stop. Or to find the Z hieght of your blazer. Measure from the center of your lower arm bolt/pin to the ground (vehicle must be level). then measure from the bottom of the stearing knuckle to the ground. Subtract the two measurements, you want 4.9 inches(4" 7/8"). The higher you turn the torsion bar to raise your front end. the more problems you will have, especially rough riding.

P.S. You can do this adjustment without jacing up the Blazer. But if you have to tighten the adjustment screw, it can be tough. I suggest jacking up one side, Use a jack stand for safety! make an adjustment, then lowewr the vehicle. rock it back and forth to let the suspension settle and measure again. and repeat till all is well.

if its the old torsion bar suspension then lift vehicle and block it up the remove the end off the torsion bar and move it around a spline or two but you may just need new torsion bars as it is 19yrs old so its sell by date might have expired a slighty

This not that simple Your tortion bars are must have some distortion at this point being a 2000 you will need to estamate some what but it can be done To tighen the tention you adjust the anchor arm bolts at the rear of the bar one on each side you also need a mesurment in the front take some string and strech it tight across the front end wheel to wheel at the bottom of the ball joints for your referance point the lower joint The vehicle should be on flat level ground Tighten the anchor arm bolts one at a time measure the distance from the top of the thearded end of the adjuster bolt to thepoint where it rides on the adjusted bracket then measure the distanct from the center of the bar front to the string when this distance is vary close the suspension should work fine Rember you may have to tighten one bar more then the other to get this but have to take into account bar distorition from years of use good luck

1995-2005 Models NOTE: The following procedure requires the use of the torsion bar unloader tool No. J-36202 or equivalent.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the transmission shield, if equipped.
3. Install a torsion bar unloader tool to relax the tension on the torsion bar adjusting arm screw; record the number of turns necessary to properly install the tool. Remove the adjusting screw and the unloader tool.
4. Unfasten the lower link mount nut from one side, then disengage the torsion bars. NOTE: Note the direction of the forward end and side of the torsion bar being removed
   
5. Remove the lower link nut from the opposite side.
6. Remove the lower link mount, upper link mount nut, upper link mount and then unfasten the torsion bar from the frame.

To Install:

1. Install the torsion bar and support.
2. Install the upper link mount and mount nut.
   • Tighten the nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm) on 1995-96 models and 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm) on 1997 and later models.
3. Place a jack under the torsion bar to release tension, then install the lower link mount bushing and nut.
   • Tighten the nut to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm) on 1995 models, 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) on 1996-98 models and 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) on 1999 and later models.
4. Install the torsion bar unloader tool and tighten the tool against the adjusting arm the same number turns recorded earlier, then remove the tool. This loads the torsion bars.
5. Install the transmission shield, if removed.
6. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.
7. Check and adjust the Z height as outlined in the wheel alignment portion of this section.

Step 1 Jack up the vehicle on the wheel to be adjusted, and set the frame rail onto a jack stand. This is to release the stress on the torsion bar so it can be adjusted easily.

Step 2 Crawl underneath the vehicle and locate the torsion bar mount on the frame. There will be a bolt in the center of the mount, pointing upward. This is the adjusting bolt, and it will accommodate a large-sized socket driver.

Step 3 Adjust the torsion bar. Turning the adjustment bolt clockwise will tighten it, raising the amount of load that can be placed on the bar. This will raise the vehicle when it is taken off the jack stand. Turning it counterclockwise will lower the available spring rate and cause the car to sit lower. Turning it too far in either direction can cause problems, so follow the specific vehicle's manufacturer guidelines when making wide adjustments. Normally, only one full turn will be enough to give the desired result.

Step 4 Lower the vehicle, and check the clearances of the frame to the ground. They should be the same for both sides. If they are not, then more adjustment will be necessary to the torsion bar adjustment bolts.

http://www.readylift.com/t-torsion_bar_keys.aspx

The torsion keys are supposed to give 2-3" additional drop vs.the "free" method. I know adjusting the torsion bars kills the ride but how bad is it and how far can you go???

Believe, 15/16 socket would be the correct size. Also, be aware that they are probably pretty rusted and VERY hard to turn at first. Air tools do no good, so you'll need a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a long pole to put on the end. This is the fastest way to get the torque you need to break those suckers loose. 

I suggest measure and writing down the height about 3-5 spots on each side, whether it be the frame, body, or whatever. Crank each side a few FULL thread turns, then measure again. Once you get about the height you want, measure both side to make sure they're equal. After that, it's best to get a full alignment as some of the suspension will now be at different angles (of course).