It's at top dead centre on th crank the cam pully marks at top of head and inlet valve just on opening th dizzy pully marks are lined up with the crank locator when you look from th marks and have taken the top off th dizzy and it is exactly at 90 degrees to th block where have i gone wrong? and are there any diagrams or pic's? thanks

If you have the Timing Belt/Chain off try this. I am assuming you have the crank timing mark somewhere near Top Dead Centre, (TDC). Rotate the Crank pulley to the quarter turn position, 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock. Remember which way you turned it! This should level the piston heads out so they are out of the way of the valves. Set your Cam timing marks to their correct positions. Return the crank back to TDC.
*Note* Turn the Crank back in the OPPOSITE direction to the one you used to put it at a quarter turn. Your timing marks should now all line up correctly.

did you change the timing belt ..when the head gaskets are replaced ,,the vehicle got so hot it stretched it out of time ..It is mainly a strong rubber band in my opinion ,,but it will not crank if the belt is out of time totally or if the belt is broke ..takes me as a mechanic 4 hours to do this job

there should be marks on crank pully and cam belt pully. rotate motor until crank pully timing mark is on zero.the cam belt pully should be lined up with its own mark.number one piston should be at the top of its stroke (top dead centre TDC) and number one valves should be shut. if the cam belt mark is not alined with its own mark remove the belt realine the marks and refit the belt

you are in a bit of a bind. Turning the engine over will result in bent valves so do not touch the crank shaft. you have to loose off all the rockers/ cam followers even to the point of removing the cam shaft. having done that remove no1 cylinder spark plug and by the use of a thin piece of wire turn the crank until the piston reaches top dead center. find this by rocking the crank back and forward until the piston dose'n move up or down check for the crank timing mark next replace the cam shaft and position the cam lobes for no1 piston in such a position that the inlet and exhaust valves move slightly up or down when the cam is moved slightly left or right. this is called valve over lap and with the piston on top dead center means that you now have valve timing for the engine. Cam timing marks can be dot on gear to shiny link on chain or if using a belt a dot on tooth lineing up with mould mark or join on head before starting up do a compression check to prove that there are no bent valves. if you are not mechanically minded enough to attempt the valve timing method it may be cheaper in the long term to let a qualified person do the job

okay first you make sure the timing marks on the pullys or gears are lineing up also you find #1 cylinder pull out spark plug place a long phillips head scew driver into the hole turn the main crank it should rise and fall get the lower part of the engine to where the scew driver stops rising and right before it falls you should be at top dead center on the lower part of the engine. turn the cam shaft till the timing mark on the pully or gear is at top dead center (TDC). but you should have timing marks on the crank shaft pully and the cam shaft gear or pully I recomend a chiltons or haynes manual so you can locate these marks.

Remove valve cover and look at cam gears, the marks are on the gears themselves, Three marks on each cam one arrow showing up and two lines that are parrallel to the head and valve cover when at top dead center. The crank mark is on the flywheel pully, this will point up and line up to the mark on the plastic cover when at top center as well. If you would like to see them when car is assembled you need to cut the valve cover correctly so you can still get a good seal. Any honda tuner magazine you buy will have a picture of one done in it, As for the flywheel keep it clean and mark it with a white paint line.

fairly easy ,now remember iam not familar with this engine iam not a dealer mechanic but a back street cowboy ,leave pistons half way down ,remove no 1 spark plug .now turn cams for no1 so the inlet and the exhaust are pointing up at a angle about 20? to the left and the right of the top of the movement .the inlet should be to left and the exhaust to the right .now look at them marks again and maybe they line up with a straight edge through the centre line of the gears.also check out google like everyone else does for the timing marks as they may be on the end of the camshafts .Dont think this engine is valve free ? but again check it as i seem to remember a customer having one and belt broke and i just stuck a new one on .Sorry getting old dinasaur now and cannot remember as well .

It should be top dead center on a compression stroke and all the valve are closed. Both cams have a line the lines up with marks on the valve cover. Basicly the marks on the cams both are set to point to twelve o'clock. The mark on the crank shaft pully points to 6 o'clock or strait down

wat did u do to make u do the timeing az thay r not over head cam. so if u did head gasget u dont nead to do the timing. timeing how to set check the crank make 1piston top dead senter right up top then u nead to go to your cam u nead to find 1 on the cam on the mark on the block there will be a mark or if u r good with motor,s put the cam so u just went past inlet then it fires then out let them u nead to take off your dizzi cap make your points line up get the leads on the dizzi cap right or u will hav fun an games

Required tools: 13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm allen head sockets 19mm socket prybar needle nose pliers If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pullys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS. Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pully ( the 4 allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pully) on the camshaft pullys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pully with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pully with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would reccomend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pullys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhause Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pully, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal. To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponsing line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple. In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long. One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it