If the tempo gauge never gets above 1/4 you probably have a thermostat stuck open. The thermostat is under the housing bolted to the top of the engine that the upper hose runs to.
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I don't know what manual pier is looking at but there are many things that are wrong with the answers he has given you.
"You should be around 150 degrees if you are much over that is to hot"
Really, so why does the factory use a 190 degree thermostat that opens at 190 degrees and regulates the engine temp around 190 degrees?
"How ever it is a possibility and is easily checked . when the engine is cold when you first start it up squeeze the upper radiator hose
with your hand if there is pressure on it the thermostat is closed when
it heats up it should open and there will no longer be pressure on the
hose if it dose this the thermostat is working correctly"
Really, so pressure doesn't build in the system as the system gets hot? There will be no pressure on the upper hose when the engine is cold whether or whether or not it is running. As engine warms up the coolant warms up and expands. This is why they use a radiator cap that has a pressure relief valve and a coolant recovery tank. When the coolant is hot the cap allows the expanding coolant to enter the recovery tank. When the cooling system cools down the cap will allow the coolant in the recovery tank to be sucked back into the radiator.
"Now that i think about the thermostat could not cause the engine to run
to cool just heat up slower but has on effect on the opperating that the
engine will reach on its owen .It would make the engine take longer to
reach opperating tempture."
Really? If the thermostat is stuck open its going to allow the engine to run cooler. It will be more noticeable in area with cooler climate or that experience a true winter. It has to run cooler because there is nothing regulating the engine temperature.
"Its open most of the time anyway"
In the summer maybe but in the winter its opening and closing all the time.
"The air is getting warm that means that the system is opperateing and
collant is flowing through it."
This is correct!
"The problem is the system is not holding
pressure It could be the radaitor cap but more likely its the radiator
it self"
It doesn't matter if its holding pressure or not. In fact you can remove the radiator cap on a properly functioning cooling system, start the engine, let it idle, and when the engine is up to temp it will blow strong heat all day long out of the vents whether its 60 degrees out or -20 degrees out (Fahrenheit)
"As far as P0401 code code goes this could be setting it off the ECT
engine collant tempature sensor is related to this to the engine temp is
reading to low its measured off the housing for the thermostat and that
would create problems with the fuel trim in turn createing problems
with engine vacuum. The canaster vent solenoid may play a small part in
the vacuum issue but would not set this code by it self"
There are so many things wrong with this I don't even know where to start!
Is this a s-10 blazer or an early trailblazer (4.3 v-6 or 4.2 inline 6)?
The P0410 code is a secondary air injection code. I didn't think they used that system on the s-10 blazer but it is used on the trailblazer and has several know issues.
As far as the heat replace the thermostat. the directions I gave where for the 4.3 liter and it will take about 5 minutes to replace. Well worth the time to have good heat out the vents. The 4.2 is a little more involved. If you have that engine I can give you some tips on replacing that thermostat.
:) wow... thanks. s-10 blazer
When you said out of coolant you meant the recovery tank, right.
It is normal for these engines to develop an intake gasket leak. The most common place is in the intake valley on the front of the engine right below the A/C mounting bracket. If it is leaking the sooner you fix it the better as the coolant will cause pitting in the aluminum lower intake manifold and heads potentially ruining them. The lower intake gasket is a fairly involved job.
no...the whole thing. radiator took almost whole jug of coolant. Just so you know you are starting to speak a foreign language to me. I was really hoping this would be a really easy fix. Then when I found i was out of coolant, I thought that would fix it. My car has issues.....I don't want put any money into, as I am hoping to find something new soon. I went to the place where I usually have my work done and he said maybe thermostat or flushing the heater core...wont know till he looks.....
As far as getting heat back it should be an easy and fairly inexpensive fix.
As far as the intake gasket leaking they do this really slow over time and generally you wouldn't notice until you either had no heat or until the vehicle overheated. The shop should have you sweating in no time.
Good luck, lraykovitz. Thanks for using Fixya.com
Thank you :)
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These engine are not supposed to run to hot it makes the intake manfold gasket leak if they do. You should be around 150 degrees if you are much over that is to hot . When you added antifreeze you need to mix it 50 50 with water to much antifreeze to water will keep it from heating up. You could try putting a peice of card board 2 feet square in front of the radiator when its real cold that will give you more heat but you need to remove it when the wether warms up. Its to cold to be working cooling systems this time of year
Its unlikely that the thermostat is the problem . Most blazers have 4.3 engines and have vary large cooling systems to keep this engine cool . How ever it is a possiblty and is easly checked . when the engine is cold when you first start it up squeeze the upper radiator hose with your hand if there is pressure on it the thermostat is closed when it heats up it should open and there will no longer be pressure on the hose if it dose this the thermostat is working correctly
Now that i think about the thermostat could not cause the engine to run to cool just heat up slower but has on effect on the opperating that the engine will reach on its owen .It would make the engine take longer to reach opperating tempture. Its open most of the time anyway
maybe, going to work on it after work. i went and had car scanned ....said secondary air injection system fault....any thoughts on this?
What code did it it give you . You see i have a blazer to and all of the manuals including the emissions If you can give me a code i can figure it out Although i don't see how an injector issue could make it run cooler hotter yes So give me a code and i'll read about it
P0410
I do have the check engine light on normally because of the EVAP canister and my ABS and Brake lights are on because of ??????????
Yes P0410 is what is called the AIR . secondary air injection system . But its not a part its a part of the system as a hole . And the system works in conjunction with fuel trim EGR flow ignition system I/M inspection/ maintenance OBD 11 self test and the EVAP system . And also is derictly related to engine vacuum witch is why your ABS light is on too. I need more time to read and think this over can you give any more information that may be helpful in diagnossing this . I'm thinking this is vacuum related
Yeah, few years ago, had to unplug the evap to install a hitch. evap didn't get hooked back up for awhile and when it did, the clip broke and i think it may be taped in there, i don't remember. So if you think the p0410 code is related to that, than stop looking into it. What I do care about is getting my car warm again and how to do that.
SO are you saying that you have no heat or the heat is not working good enough
not good enough.......only warms up part way 1/4 or less instead of up to 210(half way mark) and only blows warm air.
The air is getting warm that means that the system is opperateing and collant is flowing through it . The problem is the system is not holding pressure It could be the radaitor cap but more likely its the radiator it self . I has a similar problem with mine about 4 years ago mines a little older 98 . I brought it to a radiator shop that i had been dealing with for years to have it pressure tested . The guy took one look at it and said its shot . And i said how can it be shot it dosn't leak and he said i'll prove it to you . So he put it in the tank and put pressure on it . It looked like a bubble bath it was leaking every ware . Its just it comes out in such a fine mist that you never see it leaking You said your system was low where did the collant go if you don't have a leak. So check the cap after its been running for a while if you have no pressure and it should be slightly over 14 lbs if you din't have this then go back to the first suggestion and put a peice of cardboard between the heat exchange for the AC and the radiator this will give you some heat until the spring when you can work on it . As far as P0401 code code goes this could be setting it off the ECT engine collant tempature sensor is related to this to the engine temp is reading to low its measured off the housing for the thermostat and that would create problems with the fuel trim in turn createing problems with engine vacuum. The canaster vent solenoid may play a small part in the vacuum issue but would not set this code by it self
Do what you want . How ever its easy to shoot people in the back and i didn't see and brillant sulitions on P0410 and i know it was your radiator right of the bat . Mabey you should drive around with your radiator cap off
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maybe, going to work on it after work. i went and had car scanned ....said secondary air injection system fault....any thoughts on this?
:) wow.... thanks. S-10 blazer
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