Exhaust Pipe/Flange Gasket

Do you mean broken off and stuck inside or broken off and fallen out? Broken off and fallen out in this case is a good thing. Sounds like you mean the exhaust is broken at the manifold but what isn't clear is which piece, the manifold or the exhaust pipe. The manifold is a part of the engine, the exhaust pipe is connected to the manifold via the flange you speak of so if it is broken (coming from the engine as a base point) before the flange you need to change the manifold (less likely - hardly ever breaks - usually made of cast iron or cast aluminium) or where they typically break just after the flange (exhaust pipes are notorious for rusting out here, you will need to replace the front exhaust pipe and donut (gasket within the flange). Due to the high heat in this area it is extremely common for the bolts holding the pipe to the manifold to not just be ceased to it (lube will probably do no good) but to actually weld (or forge if you will) themselves to the metal of the pipe, in which case you need to cut them out with a torch. A good mechanic can usually do this without damaging the manifold. That is why it is a good thing if they have broken off and fallen out, much easier to change then welded in bolts (which would not fall out). I say replace the front exhaust pipe because without knowing which year your protege is or if it has an after market exhaust I don't know for sure if it is a one piece system or more than one piece. If it is a one piece you will need to either change the whole thing or do some cutting and welding to piece a section in. In which case, I do not recommend cutting the new piece you purchase but if the old exhaust on the vehicle is in alright shape from the muffler back you may be able to section it off and just replace the front section. Piecing it together would require at least one more piece, one to contact the old pipe to the new which would also need to be welded on but this method can still be cheaper (most of the time). Anything other than a simple in/out replacement will require torches and obviously if the bolts are welded in it is not a simple in/out job.

Have you been to your local junkyard yet? And are you referring to the gasket, or the flange, or the piece of exhaust pipe? You can get the gasket at any auto parts store, as well as the piping which will have the flange already on it. If you are trying to find the are on the car that it's mounted in, that;s even easier: lay under the car (either supported on jackstands only or if you can squeeze under while it's on the ground go for it) and put you hand on the (hopefully cold) manifold. Trace that down the piping until you get to what will look like an odd muffler. You just found your catalytic converter and the pipe that connects it to the manifold. Hope this helps!

Catalytic Converter Removal & Installation 2.2L Engine To Remove:
Catalytic converter 2.2L engine

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Disconnect the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connector.
3. Remove the exhaust manifold pipe flange mounting nuts from the catalytic converter.
4. Remove the catalytic converter flange mounting nuts from the muffler.
5. Remove the catalytic converter from the muffler.
6. Remove the catalytic converter from the rear hanger bracket insulator.
7. Remove the catalytic converter.
8. Remove the (HO2S) from the catalytic converter.

To Install:

1. Install the (HO2S) to the catalytic converter.
2. Install a new gasket and the catalytic converter to the muffler.
3. Install catalytic converter to the catalytic converter hanger.
4. Install the catalytic converter flange mounting nuts to the muffler flange.
   • Tighten to 26 ft lbs (35 Nm).
5. Install the catalytic converter flange mounting nuts to the exhaust manifold pipe flange.
   • Tighten to 26 ft lbs (35 Nm).
6. Connect the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connector.
7. Lower the vehicle.

------ Catalytic Converter Removal & Installation 4.3L Engine To Remove:

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Raise and support the transmission.
3. Remove the transmission support
4. Disconnect the left and right pre-converter heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connector.
5. Disconnect the post-converter (HO2S) connector. Muffler flange and gasket
   
   
6. Remove the catalytic converter flange mounting nuts from the muffler.
7. Remove the catalytic converter from the muffler.
8. Remove the exhaust manifold flange mounting nuts from the catalytic converter. Catalytic converter 4.3L engine
   
   
9. Remove the catalytic converter from the support bracket insulator.
10. Remove the catalytic converter and gaskets.
11. Remove the heated oxygen sensor.

To Install:

1. Install the heated oxygen sensors as needed.
2. Install a new gasket and the Install the catalytic converter to the support bracket insulator.
3. Install the catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold flange. Install the mounting nuts.
   • Tighten to 39 ft lbs (53 Nm).
4. Using a new flange gasket, install the catalytic converter to the muffler. Install the mounting nuts.
   • Tighten to 30 ft lbs (40 Nm).
5. Connect the left and right pre-converter heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connectors.
6. Connect the post-converter (HO2S) electrical connector.
7. Install the transmission support.
8. Lower the transmission.
9. Lower the vehicle.

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It looks like you can cut them and replace them with new bolts and nuts.

Item Part Number Description 1 52 Exhaust Inlet Pipe 2 N803420-S2 Exhaust Manifold-to-Inlet Pipe Bolts
(4 Req'd) 3 5E212 Three Way Catalytic Converter 4 5230 Muffler 5 N620482-S2 Exhaust Inlet Pipe-to-Converter Nut
(3 Req'd) 6 5B266 Exhaust Converter Inlet Pipe Gasket 7 N620481-S2 Nut 8 5E269 Exhaust Converter Frame Bracket 9 N620481-S2 Nut 10 5260 Exhaust Outlet Pipe Frame Bracket 11 5E269 Exhaust Converter Frame Bracket 12 39006 Screw and Washer 13 5E241 Exhaust Converter Outlet Gasket 14 5G215 Exhaust Pipe Flange Hold Down Spring 15 N802641-S2 Nut and Retainer 16 — Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) A — Tighten to 34-46 Nm
(25-34 Lb-Ft) B — Tighten to 20-25 Nm
(15-19 Lb-Ft) C — Tighten to 34-46 Nm
(25-34 Lb-Ft)

Local muffler shop can weld it back together. Or if it's at a joint that has a flange, then the flange gasket can be replaced. Are the two pieces held together with bolts or are they welded.

Changing the oil pan gasket on a GMC Yukon XL is realtively simple, but does require removal of the exhaust pipe. You will need a new oil pan gasket and a new exhaust pipe flange gasket.
Put the car on ramps or jacks to access the undercarriage.
Remove the exhaust pipe by removing the 3 nuts holding the exhaust pipe flange to the exhaust manifold. These nuts often rust and prior application of penetrating oil may be required to remove them without damage. Once the pipe is unbolted, work the exhaust system loose from the hanging brackets. In most cases the entire system does not have to be removed since there is enough room to remove the pan with only the front hangers removed.
Drain the oil from the engine
Remove the 10 mm bolts holding the pan to the block.
Remove the old gasket material and scrape any remaining gasket from the block and pan.
Install the new gasket. Forma-Gasket or a similar product may be used in small quantities to "glue" the new gasket in place and prevent shifting while the pan is reattached to the block.
Reinsall the 10 mm bolts in a cross pattern to ensure the gasket is compressed evenly. Do not overtighten the bolts.
Replace the pipe to flange gasket between the exhaust pipe and the exhaust manifold with a new part.
Reattach the exhuast pipe to the hangers.
Install the 3 bolts connecting the pipe flange to the exhaust manifold.
Fill the engine with oil.

Have you checked the flex pipe section under the engine, and the gasket between the manifold and cat/flex pipe section? Those are two places they usually start to leak from either a blown gasket, or the flex section rusts out under the protective covering.

it can leaking at a number of places
it could be the exhaust manifold itself or the flange where the manifold and exhaust pipe meet or at any of the joints on the exhaust pipes. or it could even be in the actul pipe itself. if you are on a tight budget you could go and ask a shop for an estimate on what it would cost to have the leak repaired.as many shops offer free estimates. sometimes the franchise shops will even fix it for free if it is a real quick fix. my wife had a flange put in for free at a shop because it only took the guy 10 min. to do it.

You can normally buy those from any local parts store or you could get an exhaust gasket maker and make your own its quite simple alls you need to do is trace your old gasket on.
Hope thatl be of help

Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the engine oil from the engine crankcase.
3. Remove the exhaust flex pipe retaining nuts from
the exhaust manifold.
4. Remove the exhaust flex pipe retaining nuts from
the catalytic converter or the connecting pipe.
5. Remove the exhaust flex pipe.
6. Remove the oil pan flange–to–transaxle retaining
bolts.
7. Remove the oil pan retaining bolts.
8. Remove the oil pan from the engine block.
Cleaning Procedure
1. Clean the oil pan sealing surface.
2. Clean the engine block sealing surface.
3. Clean the oil pan retaining bolts.
4. Clean the oil pan attaching bolt holes in the engine
block.
5. Clean the oil pan scraper.
Installation Procedure
1. Coat the new oil pan gasket with sealant.
Important : Install the oil pan within 5 minutes after applying
the liquid gasket to the oil pan.
2. Install the oil pan to the engine block.
3. Install the oil pan retaining bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the oil pan retaining bolts to 10 NSm (89 lb–in).
4. Install the oil pan flange–to–transaxle retaining
bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the oil pan flange–to–transaxle bolts to 40
NSm (30 lb–ft).
5. Install the exhaust flex pipe.
6. Install the exhaust flex pipe retaining nuts to the
exhaust manifold.
Tighten
Tighten the exhaust flex pipe–to–exhaust manifold
retaining nuts to 35 NSm (26 lb–ft).
7. Install the exhaust flex pipe retaining nuts to the
catalytic converter or the connecting pipe.
Tighten
Tighten the exhaust flex pipe–to–catalytic converter
or connecting pipe retaining nuts to 35 NSm (26 lb–ft).
8. Connect the negative battery cable.
9. Install the oil pan drain plug.
Tighten
Tighten the oil pan drain plug to 35 NSm (26 lb–ft).
10. Refill the engine crankcase with engine oil.