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I have a 1995 Gran Am that is overheating. I have changed everything but the raditor. On days that is hot it heats to 220 and keeps on going. Cooler days it is o.k. All Sensors have been changed and rad. Cap.
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i would open the raditor and check it has liquid in it to start. (do this with a cold engine) if not fill up if there is i would get it drained and then refill.
Did you put thermostat in correctly? cooling system should eventually bleed itself of air, you will just need to keep filling. Make sure your not adding straight coolant/antifreeze.
Changing the fluild ( all of it) might fix it if your lucky. Something overheating sounds possible. Any cooling system problem can cause this and cleaning the cooling system and flushing out the transmission cooler in the raditor may go a long way towards fixing your problem. dity raditor and or coolant will cause this problem. I you clean everything real good and then go and drive it and it goes longer but still does it your in for another rebuild. this time put in a new raditor to make sure the transmission lasted as long as it's supposed to. It's possible the throttle pressure was'nt set right and the trans upshifts too early and therefore the transmission gets too hot cause the engine is going too slow to make good transmission pressure and the slipping transmission overheats. again even after corrected it'll still do it as the transmission internal seals are adamaged by heat and it'll need to be rebuilt again.
You either have the thermostat in upside down or you have an air pocket and the system needs to "burp". Sometimes this can be done by warming the engine and letting it cool down.
First make sure the cooling system is full. This might require letting it cool and filling it more than once though the main raditor cap. Then it needs looked over for leaks. If it won;t stay full it'll overheat. The hose from the recovery tank to the raditor connection at the cap is a problem spot and it the raditor can't **** the coolant from the tank back into the raditor the engine will soon get low. If these things are alright then you neeed to watch it heat up, and see what's happening. The engine should worm up and as it does the upper raditor hose will warm and but hot but not right away. The side of the raditor should start to warm up soon after that, Touching the raditor it should warm up evenly from top to bottom if it doesn;t it's clogged. If the hose and engine get hot and the pressure inside the hoses rise but the raditor says cool then the therostate is sticking and needs to be changed. If the whole radidor gets hot till everythings too hot and the fan does'nt come on then you need to test the fan and it's fuses and connections. The cooling fan will be comanded on if you unplug the coolant temperture senser that's pluged into the side of the therosate hoseing as it's where the upper hose connects to the engine. If the fan seems to be coming on and hot air is coming off the back of the fan and it's still getting too hot and you've decided that the whole radidor is getting evenly hot then the engine may have an issue. Exhaust clogged up ( cat canvertor, muffer bent pipes) The check engine light might be on and the reasons it's on need to be examinded.
When you said you replaced all the cooling system parts, you mean the raditor, the hoses, the water pump,the therostate, the raditor fan and it's relays and sensers. If you've done all of this and you correctly purged all the air out of the system then The engine can be making too much heat another way. The coolant temperture senser can say that the engine is cooler than it really is ( makes a rich mixture, to warm the engine) The therostate may be installed unside down or is open all the time or is missing. ( the therostate needs to make the car get up to 200degrees F or the raditior may not get hot enough to remove enough haet to cool the engine. ( hot is good too hot or too cold is bad). Let's say all the cooling system work is good and you did'nt mix more than one kind of antifrezze ( they jel up and not cool.) The exhaust can be stopped up ( causes low performance too) Take out the oxagen senser and connect a pressure gauge ( leave the snser plugged in and grounded) If the pressure goes any higher than 5 Lbs. reving it or anytime then you looking for a clog. A good system revved up and heald staedy should show a vacume. The timing can be wrong ( low performance too) The timing chain can skip time and the measureed compression will be lower that 150 LBS. With the chain skipped the ingtion timing will be slow and that will cause overheating all by it'self. The engine may need an oil change, Gas in the oil from short trips and running too cold sometime. Overheating will rurine the mototr oil and it being bad will make the engine heat. The engine turning hard ( turning the engine by hand you should feel 3 compression shrocks per turn and it should turn easy except as it pressureizes each cyclinder, ( they should all feel the same) the oil should look clear and black, not brown. If it's some other color, coolant may be getting in the oil, The exhaust should'nt smell sweet ( antifreeze leaking into the combustion ) with the car running and the cooling system full with the cap off it shouldn't bubble or steam come out ( it tells their is a leak in the engine to the coolant and it'll blow bubbles in the coolant and the hot exhaust will heat the coolant more than the raditor will remove. It certainly should'nt bubble at all started cold and full.
The fan is known as a traffic fan because it usually goes on in heavy traffic. However, it should go on whenever it gets sufficiently hot.
If you have a temperature gauge on your car the needle shouldn't go more than 1/2 way up, or the temperature gauge if digital should not go above 220 or 230 deg. F (in GM cars) during even hot day operation.
If it goes to 260 deg. F or above, you have a problem.
If the fan does not go on with the a/c then you may have a relay or electrical wiring break that prevents it from going on when needed.
Is the fan now working? Your engine will continue to overheat if you have not fixed the fan. Check the fuse for the fan, connectors, and replace the fan if necessary.
The problem with these jeeps is that the older they get the more clogged the radiator geats.
The radiator in the Cherokees are only a single row of tubes.
You can try to flush out the radiator, but replacing it with a heavy duty type is probably a better option.
Your car is not getting enough flow to cool down the engine.
Also you want to check that the electric fan is coming on. There is a coolant sensor in the radiator.
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