Mechanic changed the idle sensor. now truck will not start.whats wrong

There is a vacuum line to the brake boost, it is probably leaking.

If you have not run the fault codes then that would be a good place to start. It will save you money as it will pinpoint the failing sensor.

1. yes a 1992 Honda accord has a map sensor and what accord do you have engine wise ?? because theres different codes 2. it could be a idle air control valve because if they get dirty they can cause the car to rev high low or even stall and cause the car to run crappy.

try finding a mechanic with an old style oscilliscope tune machine so you can actually see what the mixtures and spark are like running i suspect cam or crank angle sensors

Ask the parts store to pull the cides with the OBD (on board diagnostic) tester and tell you what is wrong.

It sounds like it is working backwards. Around the time your truck was made the industry had different emissions standards for trucks and cars. There were less controls on trucks.

There were vacuum controls that would increase idle speed when the engine was cold. The way this was done is through a water temperature sensor that is commonly called a vacuum tree. It is called a tree because it is shaped like a tree trunk with a few branches and each branch has a vacuum hose. As water temperature increases the vacuum routing changes. The cold setting makes an idle step-up dash-pot raise RPM and close the choke plate. As the water warms, the internal parts of the vacuum tree move and change the vacuum ports.

When the ports change, RPM drops and the choke plate opens and low idle speeds are restored. With the choke plate open high speed operation of the motor is assured without bogging down.

I would say most of what can be wrong is cheap to fix. A new thermostat, perhaps a new vacuum tree. Your problem can also be the vacuum lines are not connected to the correct ports. One thing many people do is to adjust the idle speed at the wrong time. The step-up cams are not in the proper position and when stuff starts working everything is out of adjustment because the changes were made at the wrong time.

This is a job for an old school mechanic.

Idle Air Control Motor That Is Dirty, Or Faulty. Good Luck

I'm assuming that this reading is at idle? The range for oil pressure is more like 30-40PSI at idle and 10-20 more at speed. The reasons your pressure is reading too high could be:

--The gauge or the sensor itself is bad (not uncommon)
--The mechanic used the wrong oil viscosity when changing your oil, and the thicker oil than specifications call for is causing higher pressures.
--The mechanic accidentally knocked off the wire to the oil sensor when changing the oil
--A bypass valve in the pump or filter is clogged and causing the high pressure.

This is a relatively new car and if this problem developed immediately after the oil change I'd suspect the wrong oil was used or the wire to the sensor was knocked off. If the problem developed near the oil change, but not right after, I'd suspect it was coincidence and that there is a problem with the gauge. Go back to your mechanic.

Head seals?? Do you mean head gasket? So it overheats & high idles? It almost sounds like the wrong head gasket was used (its possible) also, if the vehicle overheats, have you looked at the water pump? I would worry about the overheating more than the high idle.