I don't know what year your truck is but most 4wd engagement are controlled by the computer--take to advance auto have them put it on the computer to check system codes--you may have another issue arise do to the wiring being shorted when they were cut.
SOURCE: wiring diagram for 1988 ford f250 4x4 460 cu in
Try having a look here:
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152801cd403
Hopefully this gives you what you need. If not, I can keep searching or see what else we can do.
SOURCE: how to replace outside mirrors on a 2002 ford f-250 super duty
you need to remove door trim panel there are (2) 7mm screws that hold panel on .. 1 is behind the lower red light lens and the other is behind switch panel for the power window switch . remove both screws and remove small black panel above door trim by pulling strait off .(now there are (4) 11mm nuts the hold mirror on 2 are behind the small rubber plugs in front of door that you can see with panel on and the other 2 are under panel that you can see after panel is removed . the wiring need to be disconneced you may have to remove speaker for acess to feed new wiring down into the door good luck
SOURCE: need wire color code for ford F-250 tailer towing wiring
http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx. This has the hcarts to help you.
SOURCE: need wiring diagram for 1990 ford f-250 4x4
If you are looking for a complete wiring harness diagram then faxonautoliterature has the original Ford service manual for your truck which has complete diagrams in it. If you are looking for components to check then Haynes Diesel Engine Repair Manual, part # 10330 has good diagrams of components and terminals pinpointed for testing purposes as well as the specs for those tests and a good diagnostic section. Hope this helps.
SOURCE: 1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8 liter v10 is
You'll have to drain system down when cooled off, remove any brackets in your way such as power steering reservoir holding bracket, then remove 2 bolts holding the housing, and remove it. Rad hose should be o.k. to leave on, but if it creates a problem, remove it as well. I'd install a new thermostat and "o" ring complete,then a new gasket as well. Clean all surfaces well before re-installing. Replace any bracket(s) you removed to access housing, after housing is installed. Remember, air valve on edge of thermostat goes in 3 oclock position when re-installed. Also a reminder as well, spring on thermostat goes down when re-installed. After all is re-assembled, re-fill coolant and start engine and run with heater on to bleed out all air. Leave rad cap off and pay attention to temperature gauge and when you see it getting to normal operating temperature, watch flow in rad for increased flow, indicating thermostat opened and coolant is circulating properly. Wait until you see that flow increase 2 or 3 times, and air should be out of system, and top up coolant in rad, put cap back on, and check that return bottle is at proper level as well. Keep an eye for any leaks, and re-check return bottle periodically for first little while, just to be sure all is good. Note: some only use the "O" ring as a seal, and no gasket is required, but just check that at autoparts place where you get part.
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