1997 BMW 7 Series Logo
Posted on Jul 12, 2008

Transmission failsafe i have a 1998 740il bmw transmission keeps going to failsafeand throws acode 106 speed sensor output what is my first step in fixin

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  • kfm602003 Dec 04, 2008

    my 740i it need more than usual acceleration to take of or move at position d after while it goes very well so my problem when i put the auto transmission on d i accelerate to 1500 to get it move then it goes very power .mechanic told me he couldn't diagnose the problem because of electrical problem block the computer from diagnosing the problem ... what do u think?

  • Anonymous Jan 19, 2009

    ASC light will bome on while driving hard when acelarting when I shut the car off and start up it sounds like its going to stall then the code said trans fail safe.

  • bmwruss Feb 18, 2009

    i have a 97 740 il. Trans fail safe came up. Ran a code test and got a po 720 output speed senser malfuntion. I then talked to a BMW expert. He told me to check the speed sensors at the rear wheels. He said sometimes it gets dirty and needs to be cleaned. I took it out and it was very dirty, had grease build up on it. Cleaned it, but as always my luck isn't that good. I am still getting the same problem. Maybe this might help one of you guys. Good luck, let me know if it works or if anyone knws how I can fix this.

  • dark_man580 Feb 22, 2009

    I have a 1997 BMW 740 il Transmission failsave after the mechanic have tested the spark plug coil. they told me the Trans. computer is dammaged, the car became effortless.

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Benjamin D Dublin

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  • Posted on Dec 07, 2013
Benjamin D Dublin
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after replacing both fuel level senders for fuel gauge, on board computer shows trans failsafe appears from time to time. Can anyone help?

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greg benton

  • 231 Answers
  • Posted on May 13, 2009

SOURCE: 2001 bmw 740il output speed sensor location

hello ryk786, i/m not a hundred percent certain, but I think the output speed sensor is located at the back of the transmission. With the pan removed, if you look at the valve body and see the EDS valves and connectors, look about 2 inches back toward the end of the case and you should see a connector by itself. There should be a retaining torx bolt and spring holding the sensor in place. After installing the new sensor, do not over-tightend the bolt. The torque should be around 5-6 Nm.

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Anonymous

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  • Posted on Jan 07, 2010

SOURCE: i have a 1998 bmw 740il and when i go to put it in

http://www.e38.org/1997Manual-7Series.pdf

Page 63. It seems as though you have your transmission in Manual Program. Normal driving should use Adaptive program.

Or, your transmission is slipping.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Nov 14, 2008

SOURCE: 1998 BMW 740IL WILL NOT START

This happened to mine.

I took it back to the place where i bought it and at this time i still had warranty on it, they went and looked through it and found that the battery cables were bad.

Hope this helps

Anonymous

  • 78 Answers
  • Posted on May 01, 2009

SOURCE: 1998 bmw 740il will not start even with new a battery

If you checked all the fuses try putting the car in neutral sometimes the shifter gets misadjusted and wont start till the car is completely in park.If not check for a lose wire to the starter.If the car has an after market alarm you will have to turn it off before starting there should be a little buuton under the drivers dash or kick panel.GOOD LUCK

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on May 04, 2009

SOURCE: 96 bmw 740il misfire

This is a pretty common problem. I would change your valve cover gaskets. They run around ~ 50 bucks. If they are bad it will leak oil into spark plug well and cause a misfire. Very known on the 740.. Also if tune was not anytime not too long ago id change spark plugs while you at it. Then clear the computer and if you still get misfire on 8 try changing the ignition coil which is right about the cylinder with cylinder ignition coil 5. clear the computer. if you get random misfire and misfire cyclinder 5 after then its your ignition coil. parts store runs around 100 bucks

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I have a hyundai elantra 2000 and I was told that the transmition was bad, my brother replaced the transmition and still doing the same thing as when we had the old one, when you turn on the car it makes...

I have 2002 elantra with similar problem. (but only takes 3 minutes to activate the problem) gets locked in 3rd gear, so have to start from a stop in 3rd, and revs really high when attempting freeway speed. also resets itself when you turn the ignition off, but will come back immediately (4 seconds, i think) as soon as you hit 30km/h the first time. (if you're seeing something slightly different read on anyway, some useful resources here)

So I'll start by saying I haven't fixed my problem yet, but found a lot of detail on it, which I'll share. First, check out http://www.hmaservice.com/ this is hyundai's site for service bulletins and other useful info. Locking into 3rd gear is one of 11 failsafe modes for the transmission, which they refer to as "electrical limp home mode" read the descriptions of the failsafe modes if yours is slightly different.
Second, get someone with an electronic read-out to check your DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble codes) I got mine done at AutoZone, who offers the service for free. Make sure you leave the car running, so the DTC doesn't clear itself, as it does each time you turn off the ignition. You'll probably get one of the four codes P0715, P0720, P0721 or P0722. 715 and 721 indicate a problem with the input speed sensor, which measures the rotation rate of the shaft going into the transmission, and the other two are codes for the output sensor, which reports the rate of rotation of the output shaft. In both cases, the problem can be that the sensor is blown or that the wiring leading up to it has a problem.

Now go back to hmaservice.com and look up TSB (technical service bulletin) 09-AT-016
it has a good picture of where to find the sensors on top of your transmission. there are some others that detail the failsafe modes (search on failsafe). you should have something to go on from here.

Unless your brother moved the sensor over from your old transmission to the new one, the fact that you still have the problem would suggest that the problem is in the wiring harness. Now, if it's a wiring problem, what would cause it to work OK for some time when the vehicle is cold? check to see if you have a puddle of coolant on the sensor when you start, and then look again after the problem kicks in. they put the sensors on top, where liquid can puddle, and beneath the coolant hoses where they often leak, especially after 8-9 years of use.

there is one catch, and that is if I read the info correctly, the 2000 elantra is a whole different series than the 2001-2009, and may be entirely different in codes, failsafes and sensor locations, but the three steps are still the best course for you.
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