My front wheel keeps migrating to the back of the wheel well what causes this

Hello. It seems the left front wheel bearing is either 'over torqued' and/or low to no grease. These 'issues' will cause that wheel bearing to overheat. Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.

wheel bearing failure allows wheels to lean it that top
next is ball joint failure followed by suspension bush failure
Take it to an accredited suspension shop and when finished with the repairs have a wheel alignment done

Blister or broken steel braid in tire. Lug nut torqued properly? If you suspect tire, move it to the back and see if the noise/vibration migrates with it. The only other guess would be your wheel bearing is failing.

Warped or out-of balance brake rotor? Also keep in mind that loose rear differential trailing arms that allow the rear differential to squirm around can also cause steering wheel shake.

Several things could cause it, from bad wheel bearings to worn ball joints...
Get your alignment checked. While they're doing it, a good shop will tell you if anything needs replacing to keep alignment true. Be sure and tell them about the brakes causing a shudder. It may be related, or your brakes might need attention. Good luck.

lift the front wheel off the ground and fill the pump resovoir to the max, then slowly turn the wheels from full lock right and then to full lock left, recheck the fluid level and top off as ness, repeat until the air is gone, then let stand and allow the remaning air bubbles to migrate to the pump, then recheck in after everything is cold.

first check rear differential wire harness to ensure no broken wire or plug. check. next back wheel sensor maybe malfunctioning/broken. next wrong brake assembly installed on vehicle.also water may migrate into plug and rust connections causing a error code

You probably bent the rim slightly or knocked off a wheel weight, just get your front wheel re-balanced.

Alignment causes a pull not a vibration, and it takes a hard hit to bend a frame.

I bet you this is not more then a 50 dollar fix.

Cheers,

There are issues with the 4x4 system I.w.e ends ingesting moisture/water into vacuum actuation system causing no 4x4 or ratcheting outboard I.w.e ends. (Even if you don't go 4x4'n ) pull off vacuum hoses @ I.w.e ends and check for moisture/water/rust also the I.w.e is not part of the wheel bearing itself It is the part on the axle side (inboard) of the spindle. (EVEN DEALERS CAT LISTED WRONG)Many shops just replace the wheel bearing side this may fix the symptom but not the true cause of damaged I.w.e. ! Check with a reputable dealer they should have info on this condition and repair procedure.


The integrated wheel end (IWE) system contains the following:

Vacuum reservoir
IWE solenoid
IWEs (spring loaded vacuum hubs)
Vacuum hoses
Check valve
The IWE system uses vacuum hubs that engage the front wheel hubs to the front half shafts or disengage the front wheel hubs from the front half shafts.

The IWE solenoid receives engine vacuum from the vacuum reservoir.

When the 4-wheel drive system is in 2WD mode, the 4x4 module (PCM)supplies a ground path to the IWE solenoid to apply vacuum to the integrated wheel ends (disengaging the front hubs from the front half-shafts). In 4WD mode, the 4x4 module (PCM) does not supply the ground path to the IWE solenoid, vacuum is not applied to the integrated wheel ends and an internal spring keeps the front hubs engaged to the front half-shafts.

Good luck and check the vacuum line, start with the simple. Keep me posted, be glad to get your 4wd working again.