I have been recently having problems with starting my car. My car does not start correctly. My rpm is idle at 1 and when i start my car it gradually works it way up to the 1 and sometimes i have to press the gas pedal to even get it started but then it works fine when i drive. When it normally starts the rpm rises above the 1 and returns back to its idle state. Every once in a while when im driving and im stoping the rpm goes below 1 rpm and stalls while running. This problem happened in the summer time but it went away.

Provided that the engine is in good condition (nothing like a pulled stud) Start with the points (0.4mm) Now reset the timing to 5 degrees advance - static. Then Set the valves (0.15mm) Make sure the carburetor is clean and correctly set. To set it, warm up the motor to operating temperature, set the idle at 750 rpm an screw the volume control screw out a few turns. Then screw it back in slowly till you notice the rpms start to drop. Then back it out an 1/8 of a turn to a 1/4 of a turn. Now set the idle at 700 rpm again. It may be wise to check that the butterfly valve shaft has not worn the carburetor. If that happens the engine will run erratically due to the motor receiving a false air supply.

Yes, that is normal operation for an engine. It needs to run at higher idle when cold and the computer does that through the temp sender. Make sure it's not excessive due to any vacuum leaks. This and the AC power loss would be exaggerated if the engine is not running correctly.

Did they replace the idle air control valve ?

When is the last time you had a complete tune up? What did you do to correct the misfire the first time it happened?

i think try TPS or idle air control motor pos....

Hello,
I doubt it has anything to do with your lighter/aux, but change the fuse on it and see if that corrects the problem. Check to see if you can pull the gas pedal back with your hand and see if that lowers the RPM. Old cars can wear the parts that make your pedal rise fully back up.
There is also the intake adjustment screw near where your intake meets the manifold. It's usually a phillip's screw. This will lower or raise your RPM levels on idle. You may have to adjust the screw. Every time you make 1/4 turn adjustments, you need to let the car run for awhile as the process is gradual and NOT immediate. This is the steps I would take because I know my cars, but if you feel uncertain, please take it to a mechanic. Best of Luck!

Check your fuel vapor recovery system, your van has unusual set up, and the effect is RAW fuel gets purged, rather than vapor.
The dead giveaway test is does the issue happen on light acceleration? Does it stop if you let off the throttle? Can you accelerate harder and "get past" the issue?

TAKE THE AIR CLEANER OFF THE INLET MANIFOLD LOOK DOWN THE THROAT AND SEE WHERE THE BUTTERFLY IS SITTING YOU WILL SEE WHERE YOU ADJUST THE IDLE,YOU ADJUST THE IDLE SPEED BY BY TURNING THE STOP PLATE ADJUSTING SCREW TO INCREASE RPM SCREW IN TO DECREASE RPM SCREW OUT__ NOW !!!BE SURE TO ....LOCK THE ADJUSTING SCREW WITH THE LOCKNUT I THINK THAT IS WHERE YOU TROUBLE WILL BE ...

1) It is very possible your engine mounts can be worn, but

2) the vibration you feel may be also due to the idle itself degrading to the point that the car is shaking. Does the engine sound like it is getting ready to die? what is the engine rpm when you feel the vibration? You may just have a dirty throttle body. In this case, clean the throttle body plate and bore and the problem will go away.

3) did the problem seem to come on suddenly or gradually, if gradually, you may just need some plugs and/or wires, and/or cap/ignition rotor, etc. (a tune up)

4) Also, do you only feel the vibration when the AC system is on?

5) there are some other reasons for abnormal engine vibration at idle, but the above are some of the most common, and simpler to repair.

All the best with the repair!

disconnect the battary for aprox 1 hr this will clear the computor of bugs then reconect drive for about 30mins and problem should be solved .
good luck