AC and heating won't blow. Dealership says it is the control unit in the dash but everthing I've read on the internet says the blades on the blower are usually stopped up with insulation of something. Does this sound right? They stated that everything checked out but the blower was not getting power. Oh, this is on a 2006 Jeep Commander.

what sub model accord, v6 LX ,
manual or full climate control option??? guess full.
fuses not checked PCM scanned for DTC errors EVAC, hopeless/?
so car starts and runs sand drives ok, <<< not told that.
yes the AC brain on most modern cars is BCM brain controls
and the brain does control the AC compressor. if that is dead so be AC, THE COMPRESSOR CLUTCH, is run by PCM RELAY.
NOT TOLD OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE NOR COUNTRY../
HERE IS A LIST.
1: CHECK ALL FUSES FIRST, CAB AND ENGINE BAY ALL FUSE BOXES SKIP NONE.
2: CHECK IP CLUSTER FOR ERRORS ,ALARMS ERRORS OR LAMPS GLOWING OR IMMO LAMP SHOWS IMMO IS UNHAPPY, MODE.
3: ENGINE STARTS AND RUNS AND CAR DRIVES.?????????
4: HEAD LAMPS WORK KEY ON AND OFF. ,
5: OTHER ELECTRIC FAILURES OR JUST THE BLOWER ONLY?
6: SCAN THE pcM FOR ERRORS, AC IS CUT DEAD EVEN FOR ENGINE OVERHEATING OR OVERLOADED !!! OR IN LIMP MODE/
yah can't fix modern cars lacking a scan tool, no way./

bLOWER FACTS
PER THE SM BOOK REAL

THERE IS A BLOWER RELAY AND SOME FUSES. 12VDC SIDE.
FUSE 30 DASH
AND 21 HOOD, BOTH MUST BE GOOD. and fuse 12 V6
THE bLOWER gets GROUND FROM THIS
Audio-HVAC--Display Panel
l AND ITS BLOW POWER TRANSISTOR MODULE
SO WE KNOW THE TRANSISTOR IS off. IS CAUSE 1.
ONLY WHY REMAINS!!!!
YES THE CONTROLLER DOES NOT WANT TO RUN ANY DEAD BLOWER AND RISK ICE DAMAGE TO THE EVAP CORE.

THE Audio-HVAC Display Panel, READS MOTOR SPEED ACTUAL. speed (a kind blower tachometer wire)
IF SAY A INSECTS NEST JAMMED UP THE BLOWER FAN
THE AUDIO -HVAC, MODULE SEE THAT AND CUTS AC DEAD BY DESIGN AND HARD GOOD REASons/
the THE Audio-HVAC , has the ICE up sensor and monitors R134a
high/low switch and if wrong, tells the PCM to shut down its
Clutch solenoid to compressor ending all AC .
I am no sure what blower does.
but I can say this tell of blower works in heat mode or blower + no AC no HEAT mode. yes then the blower is not bad, nor the controller
what is wring is inputs to the controller are dead wrong
and not scanning the PCM after fuses is why you don't know.

l;earn now this works
Audio-HVAC
Display
Module
https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp



not checking fuses first then scanning the PCm is why answers simple are not found.

like these and scads more.

Trouble Code: HVAC 12 (3.0L V6 VIN - Std)
A Problem in the Blower Motor Circuit

Trouble Code: HVAC 13 (3.0L V6 VIN - Std)
HVAC Control Unit Internal Error


Trouble Code: HVAC 14 (3.0L V6 VIN - Std)
An Open in the Evaporator Temperature Sensor Circuit (ICE Up preventions)

Trouble Code: HVAC 15 (3.0L V6 VIN - Std)
A Short in the Evaporator Temperature Sensor Circuit(ICE UP)

does the car have automatic climate control?

Hmm, sounds like your heating unit is gone. They are located behind the dash, usually behind the glove box. The heating unit is not an easy fix. Now If there is NO air at all, the actual blower unit is gone, also, not an easy fix, located also behind the dash, the common problem in the blower unit is the Copper Bushes. They wear down and no longer make contact with the blower motor, causing it to stop. Now for the heater unit, i will basically tell you this, take it to an Auto Electrician either way. I am one by trade, but can not help you over the internet to fix it as requires a lot of pulling your dash apart, i will save you the trouble and just take it to an expert to repair.

may be the blower relay ???

Hi,
Check the blower resistor block( that controls the speed and powers the fan blower ), u can locate it under the dash in the side of blower housing( usually u have to remove the glove compartment ). Check the continuity of the connection, if broken, u have to replace the whole resistor block.
Hope that helps u out!

The 1992 was prior to Buick putting cabin air filters in so there is not a possibility it is clogged. So more than likely your blower motor is going bad or your fan control switch is bad. Does this problem occur with heating as well as AC? Does it change if you switch between blowing on floor, face, window(defrost) If it doesnt change based on location of blow and type of air temp then I would start by turning fan on high and placing head (ear ) against dash in center of console area. Have someone turn fan knob from low to high with engine OFF...After goign from low to high and back a few times you can see if the blower motor is responding to signal from switch. Listen for a whine, squeal, rattle, or humm. A whine or Humm would indicate a bad blower motor... Squeal or rattle a bad squirrel cage/fan blower blades. If you hear no noise and no perceivable change in blower speed/noise then its possible your switch is bad. Unfortunately the only way to definitely diagnose either is to pull the switch from dash and use multimeter to test for voltage change and for blower motor to pull dash. There is a digital control unit for your car as well. Although rare sometimes the wires on this can loosen or it can go bad. But since you didnt state teh fan wasnt working at all and you are getting cool air, that woudl be teh last thing to check

SOUND LIKE BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR OR AC + HTR CONTROL SWITCH CAN BE BAD.

Your heater blower fan unit is in need of replacement.
It's a difficult job so take it to a service center.

If your unit is working on 1 and is just seeping warm air out then I don't believe it is the switch or HVAC unit. It is probably the blower motor circuit. I had the same problem when I bought by Tiburon GT. The blower worked on 3 and 4 though and eventually the blower quit altogether. Air would just seep out of the vents after that. I replaced the HVAC control unit and still no fix. So I got out my multimeter which I should have done instead of just replacing working parts and checked the blower motor and found a short in the circuit (the power wire was repaired at a prior time and the person who did it made a bad connection just crimped 2 wires together instead of soldering the points together). I repaired the bad wire and soldered it together and used heat shrink tubing to cover it, then viola I had heat and AC at all blower levels and bought the HVAC unit for no reason at all. The control unit is easy to replace. The center dash trim has four clips, 2 at the top and 2 in the bottom. Just get out a small pry bar or flathead (make sure you are careful not to mark up the vinal dash it marks easily I used cloth around the pry bar) and pry around the clips and it should pop right out. Then its just a matter of taking out 4 screws and popping the new one back in. Installation is just reverse. If it isn't a short it could also be the blower motor resistor (which is in case with the blower motor). I don't have specs right now but let me know if you need them. Replace the unit and if that doesn't work then follow the above description. Good luck.

my durango 2001 will not crank, appears not to be getting fule. the fule giage reads empty eventhoujgh i put gas in it. I,ve checked the fuses and find none blown. on the dash it reads " no buss" can someone give me opptionsbefore i go nuts mand burn it down? ;( Thanks Frank