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Joshua Blassmann Posted on Mar 10, 2017
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MY 2006 Explorer was not putting out any heat and the fan clutch would speed up and sound like a Hummer. I refilled the coolant resivoir, and the radiator. I noticed the coolant would just disappear but no visable leaks. I changed out the thermostat and that stopped the fan clutch issue but still noticed coolant dissapearing. I replaced the radiator and am still having the same problem, no heat unless I rev the engine and coolant disapearing. Finally last night I had the truck hot and kept on refilling the radiator then I seen the leak was comming from the passenger side middle of the truck near the running boards. Today I took off the running boards and saw 2 bursts in the heater hose that goes to the rear heater core. I followed the line to the heaer core and noticed another crack ( not a burst) in the same line. I think the rear heater core is clogged. How do I remove it and how do I repair the broken coolant line?

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Joe Stanton

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  • Ford Master 1,154 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 10, 2017
Joe Stanton
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You may be able to braze (2) 1/2 in. copper 90 degree water fittings back to back to install as a jumper. Install jumper well ahead of bad hoses. I have never seen a stopped up heater core. Replace any suspect hoses and temp control valves.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 405 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 01, 2008

SOURCE: 88 Bronco ii Coolant not circulating

Good Day,

Sounds like the thermostat is working properly, the only other cause for the valve/lifter noise could be the oil pump is not pumping enough oil up to the top of the motor. I suggest doing an oil change(if you haven'y aleready), be sure to flush several quarts through, after sitting for 5 years I'm sure the old oil is pretty sludgy, this well help rule out this possibilty. As far as the water pump goes, It either works or doesn't typically when they are on there way out the will leak from the gaskets. A bad head gasket would cause white smoke form the exhaust as coolant get's into the oil and is burned off, so I don;t hink this is the problem.

Here's a start for you, hope this helps and good luck

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Anonymous

  • 1263 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 22, 2008

SOURCE: 96 ford crown vic over heating

it seems you have to seperate issues here. fiirst let's start withtthe over heating. you stated that you have replaced the pump,thermosta,fan,clutch,all the hoses, and core. now my question to you is did you route the belt so it's circulating like it should? is it steaming out from under the hood? to be quite honest the vehicle should not even be close to overheating after driving only 3 miles. there is a possibilty that you have a bad sending unit for the temp if it is not steaming out from under the hood. your upper radiator hose is hot this tells you that the thermostat is operating as it should. the fan should be turning clock wise as you are looking at it from the front of the vehicle.when you fill the system with coolant make sure that you have the heater on high and to the hot setting. check to make open sure you have plenty of coolant and that the radiator is free of dirt and bugs.. now as far as not having anyheat in the vehicle check the fuse for your climate control. look under the dash and make sure you hooked all the cables for your fresh air door and blend door. when you changed the core did you connect the hoses in the right place?after you have checked all the hoses and the coolant is as full as can be and the heat is turned on to max ,keep the radiator cap off and start the vehicle wait for it to get hot check the upper radiator hose to see when the thermo stat opens you should see that the coolant should go down in the radaitor. do these things and check back with me on the results...please rate this help...thanks

Anonymous

  • 104 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 03, 2008

SOURCE: Where do you refill coolant for the radiator?

The heater core is located in behind the dashboard, I have seen trained mechanics take more than a day removing and reinstalling the dash on Taurus, probably not something to tackle at home unless you've done work like that before. But I would suggest that there may be another problem causing the no heat situation, unless the heater core is just blocked with rust. This can usually be flushed out to rectify the problem. The heater system is also electronically controlled on that model, and may have anything from a loose connection to a faulty servo motor or a broken door shaft that could cause the same fault.
As for the coolant level needing topped up frequently, it would be advisable to get this checked out first and repaired, as you will never have heat from the heater if there is no coolant in the system.

Hope this helps,
Mark.

Gene Pitts

  • 159 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 07, 2008

SOURCE: 2.3l ranger keeps overheating, been through two radiators already.

Hello Ranger Joe, eight months and two radiators is very uncommon. Question, Have you visually confirmed the leak in the radiators or is the leak near the hose connections? Replacing the radiator, cap, water pump, & the thermostat leaves only two others, the hoses and the engine block/heads. Far fitched will be something or somebody poking holes in the radiator.

Anonymous

  • 1959 Answers
  • Posted on May 09, 2009

SOURCE: smoke from the vents after upper heater hose replaced

Smoke through the vents indicates a heater core issue. If you are losing coolant and / or getting coolant inside the car (check the floor boards) this would tend to confirm a heater core. Best of luck to you.

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The electronically controlled fan clutch is controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM) based upon requests for airflow to cool the engine, transmission and A/C condenser. If no cooling is required, the electronics permit the fan to spin at a slower speed yielding improved fuel economy.
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Inoperative or damaged:
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If the cause is not visually evident, connect the scan tool to the Data Link Connector (DLC).
Retrieve any DTC Codes (Diagnostic Test Code). Autozone will do for free.

--------------------------------------------------------------

The cooling fan clutch actuator valve controls the fluid flow from the reservoir into the working chamber. Once viscous fluid is in the working chamber, shearing of the fluid results in fan rotation.

The cooling fan clutch actuator valve is activated with a pulse width modulated (PWM) output signal from the powertrain control module (PCM). By opening and closing the fluid port valve, the PCM can control the cooling fan clutch speed. The cooling fan clutch speed is measured by a Hall-effect sensor and is monitored by the PCM during closed loop operation.

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