When turning the key to start the engine the mechanism will not move to energizer the ignition switch. does not appear to be the key tumbler, and the ignition switch rod that fits into mechanism has not come out. what else could be wrong.This is on a1996 ford taurus Thanks mike

Is it shifter on the floor ?
Ignition Lock Cylinder Control Actuator
If the vehicle is equipped with a floor mounted console gear shifter, it has a ignition lock cylinder control actuator system in the steering column. The ignition lock cylinder control actuator's purpose is to prevent the ignition key from being turned to the OFF position when the transmission is in gear and the vehicle may still be moving. The column ignition lock system consists of a ignition lock cylinder control actuator , and a park position switch that is located in the A/T shift lock control switch. The ignition lock cylinder control actuator contains a pin that is spring loaded out to mechanically prevent the ignition key cylinder from being turned to the lock position when vehicle transmission is not in the Park position. If vehicle power is lost, and/or the transmission is not in the Park position the operator will not be able to turn the ignition key to the lock position and will not be able to remove the ignition key from the column.

GM had problems with these ! Has a TSB - technical service bulletin !
Automatic Transmission Shift Lock Control Description and Operation
The automatic transmission shift lock control system is a safety device that prevents an inadvertent shift out of PARK when the engine is running. The driver must press the brake pedal before moving the shift lever out of the PARK position. The system consists of the following components:
• The automatic transmission shift lock solenoid (serviced as the automatic transmission shift lock actuator), as well as the body control module (BCM) and the engine control module (ECM). The shift lock solenoid is located within the floor shift control assembly with vehicles equipped with floor shift.
• The BCM controls the voltage to the shift lock control solenoid through the shift lock control solenoid controlled voltage circuit. The following conditions must be met before the BCM will remove voltage from the shift lock solenoid:
- The ignition is in the ON position.
- The engine control module (ECM) sends an input via GMLAN serial data to the BCM indicating the transmission is in the PARK position.
- The BCM determines the brake pedal is applied according the brake pedal position.
Since the shift lock control solenoid is permanently grounded, the BCM supplies voltage to the automatic transmission shift lock control solenoid, mechanically locking the shift lever in the PARK position as the solenoid energizes. When the brake pedal is applied, the BCM turns the control voltage output of the shift lock control solenoid OFF, de-energizing the shift lock control solenoid. The de-energized solenoid releases the mechanical lock allowing the driver to move the shift lever out of the PARK position. When the transmission is out of the PARK position, the shift lock control solenoid remains de-energized.
During remote start operation, the BCM will energize the shift lock control circuit, locking the shift lever in the PARK position.
Replaced shifter on a cobalt , broken plastic part inside , wouldn't press on micro switch to disengage ! Found replacement shifter at auto slavage yard .$20.00 US

Some issues here, I'll give you a few thoughts. The antitheft system should have recognized that a key was not in the ignition. So something must have happened to the antitheft, but that is not a issue for the lock not turning enough. Some ignition switches have a sliding mount which times the mechanical distance of the control rod or cable that you are trying to move with the screwdriver in the ignition. This simply means that the ignition switch was secured too high on the steering column when it was mounted. Also some lock cylinders will fit inside the ignition but when they are installed 180 degrees off, it messes up the distance on the rod length. It is like the activating fixture(as say a half moon shape) is on the left instead of the right and now can not move the control rod far enough.

Getting back to the module, if it is not noticing you are not using a key and it starts and runs you have a problem. Hope this helps.

Unfortunately, you will not be able to do that. The key and tumbler are an intricate part of the vehicles "anti-theft system. If the ignition switch or tumbler is broken it will have to be replaced and the theft code relearned. When the key is turned in the tumbler, the switch reads the key code and sends the code to the BCM. The BCM verifies the code is correct and sends a start message to the ECM and allows the engine to start. With out that code verification, the engine will not start.

There could be some play in the ign switch allowing the voltage to be lost in certain position. Turn key to run position, do start engine. Turn on blower fan, turn signal, radio . Wiggle the key to see if they go off with key movement. If so replace electrical switch behind the key and tumbler

For one thing, disconnect the Negative battery terminal. See if it has any effect on the mechanism in the key/switch area.

There had to be a reason for working on the vehicle in the first place.

Ford uses an Interlock system which links the Transmission position, Brake pedal, and starter/keyswitch into 1 group. The usual problem with Ford makes is the Brake pedal lever switch under the dash is prone to damage by the Drivers foot.

This is usually revealed by the lack of Brake lights. The "command" for the Interlock to work on some Models starts when the Brake pedal is pressed. This allows the starter to engage if the Gearshift is in the proper position. But what can happen is parts slip from their intended position and prevent the Interlock from realigning for the next start. (Enough that the Key can't be removed)

Now if you have the adjustable ingnition switch, there should be slots on the housing of the Ignition switch. Say you did position the Ignition switch properly, but the Ignition switch moved by itself; it probably was pulled up or down the steering column by the linkage with the Gearshift Interlock.

The Ignition switch is at the top end of the Interlock rod or cable that the Ignition switch is attached to. You may be able to move the part from the bottom of the steering column and push the ignition key back into positon to free itself topside for removal.

Another idea is the spring release on the Ignition key lock cylinder. With the lock tumblers spread out from the stuck key, there may be enough play to allow the key to release. The spring loaded tumbler release is under the steering column plastic housing, a nail or drillbit will fit in the hole to allow for triggering the release mechanism.

Also if you have a tilt steering wheel, the Geometry of the position of the steering column may lengthen or shorten the Ignition Key rod inside the column. It may be worth an attempt at repositioning the tilt feature.

I hope my solution is helpful, please rate my idea.

The starter gets powered by the solenoid which is energized when the ignition key is turned to the start position. Look at the picture below and read the sequence of operation below it. Once you find out what is NOT happening - you can troubleshoot back from there.



The IGNITION KEY SWITCH is connected by a small wire to the terminal in the GREEN circle on the SOLENOID. The battery is connected by a thick, heavy cable to the terminal in the RED circle of the SOLENOID. The terminal in the YELLOW circle of the SOLENOID is connected to a thick, heavy cable that goes directly into the STARTER MOTOR.

The -12 volts from the battery is connected to the car's engine, frame and body. The entire car has -12 volts available to all electric (and mechanical) parts, so only one wire is needed to energize those parts.

When the key is held in the START position, +12 volts from the battery is passed through the IGNITION SWITCH to the GREEN terminal on the SOLENOID. This causes the SOLENOID to (1) become energized, (2) internally physically connects the +12 volts RED terminal to the YELLOW terminal and (3) physically engages the STARTER to the engine's flywheel. When this happens, the +12 volts from the battery appears on the YELLOW terminal; and directly into the STARTER MOTOR. The STARTER MOTOR spins. Since it is engaging the flywheel, the flywheel turns too and the engine attempts to start. Once the engine is running, the key is released. The SOLENOID (1) becomes de-energized (2) opens the physical connection between the RED and YELLOW terminals, (3) disengages the STARTER MOTOR from the flywheel and the STARTER MOTOR stops spinning.

I hope this helps!

defective ignition switch tumbler

the ignition switch is located under the dash at the bottom of the steering column.suspect a fault in the linkage connecting tumbler to switch.

Not an exact solution, but perhaps information that might lead to one.

1.Replaced the tumblers? I believe I would replace the entire ignition switch this time. It's my belief that the body of the ignition switch is worn inside, and will keep damaging the tumblers.

2.Do you have a tilt steering wheel? It's best to keep the steering column in straight line when starting the car, then tilt the wheel to where you want, after the car is started. When the steering column is in a tilted position, it puts undue strain on the ignition key switch, and the mechanism the ignition key switch operates, on GM vehicles.

This mechanism, consists of a half moon gear on the ignition key switch, that turns inside a 'Planetary' gear. I used the term 'Planetary', as the gear shape is hard to describe. It resembles an oblong loop, shaped like the number 9, with gear teeth on the inside bottom of the loop. This 'Loop' rotates, when the gear teeth of the ignition key switch, engage the teeth on the loop, and pushes a rod, or retracts the rod. The rod goes down the side of your steering column, and turns on, or turns off an ignition switch, located at the bottom left side of the steering column.

Having the steering wheel tilted, puts a strain on the ignition key switch internals, the oblong loop can break, and/or gear teeth can be stripped off.

Your ignition switch has piled up. Not the key and tumbler, the actual switch which is down at the bottom of your steering column. A rod that is connected to your key and tumbler pulls on the switch to start and stop your engine. You'll have to drop your steering column down to get at it, and replace the switch.