- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Assuming stock ignition, check for near battery voltage (within 3 volts or better) at the positive side of the ignition coil while the ignition switch is in the run position.
If no power at coil positive then likely a fuse has blown or other open circuit... miswire or open ignition coil resistor wire.
If power at coil positive, check for power at coil negative. If near battery voltage at coil negative then points are open and you should get spark at ignition coil secondary by flashing the coil negative with a jumper wire to ground.
Did you replace belt?Is it tight enough?Do you have fusible links?Check alternator wiring,may need replacing.Check battery,old alternator could of made it bad.Check ground battery cable,follow it's other end that is screwed into block.Also check positive cable to starter.Did you have the old alternator tested?Unlikely new alternator is bad.
after each step below check for power:
1. make sure you have a good ground. tighten battery negative if loose (also at the other end of the cable.) (tighten also the b+ if loose)
2. temporarily disconnect the wiring to the alternator. (tape any exposed wire.) (to verify if the alternator is not shorted)
3. check the ignition switch.
Blue wire to ignition switch,from alternator voltage regulator.( 12 volts ) ECU power wire, Red wire to battery terminal. Blue wire goes from alternator to the ignition switch. The voltage regulator senses the incoming voltage from the blue wire. ) it grounds the green field wire This energizes the alternator field, and the alternator begins to produce a charge and sends it to the battery via the main output wire. When the voltage regulator senses 14 volts from the blue field wire, it cuts the ground to the green field wire. Good-Day!
Is power getting to the ignition switch? Do the warning lights and gauges come on when key is turned to on? That would verify power in and power out at the switch. Then you would need to check the start circuit. A single start wire comes out of the switch, the signal travels through the neutral safety switch and a starter relay and then to the starter solenoid mounted on the starter. Solenoid closes contacts so battery power can operate the starter. If new starter doesn't work, power has been lost between the ignition switch and the starter. If no power to the ignition switch check maxi fuses, all fuses in fact, and possibly a fusible link from the battery that may be the feed for the switch.
Ground (almost always the black wire). Locate three or four connections on the alternator, depending on the type. One wired connection is black; another red; and the other can be blue, yellow, green and brown. The red and black wires are the main electrical connections. The others go to your ignition warning light system and voltage regulator.
Ensure the red wire is tightly connected to the alternator terminal. It usually is attached by a bolt. Move the wire to see whether it's loose; there shouldn't be any movement. If the wire is loose, tighten the nut using a suitably sized wrench.
Ensure the black wire is securely attached. It usually is connected to the alternator terminal using a bolt. Check whether the wire is loose; it should not move. If it does, tighten the nut using a wrench.
CHECK ALTERNATOR POWER FEED WIRE AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR WIRES FOR EXPOSED WIRES SHORTING TO GROUND.CHECK BATTERY POSITIVE CABLE FROM ALTERNATOR TO STARTER. LOOK FOR SIGNS BURNT WIRES.YOU HAVE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE SHORTING TO GROUND.OR STARTER SOLENOID OR STARTER SHORTING OUT.TRANSMISSION NEUTRAL SWITCH OR IGNITION SWITCH WIRES SHORTING OUT IGNITION.
CHECK BATTERY VOLTAGE ITS SHOULD BE 12.5 VOLTS.IF YES.I AM LOOKING AT BAD GROUND BATTERY CABLE OR LOOSE CORRODED BATTERY CABLES.REPLACE THEM IF THEY ORIGINALS CABLES.TURN OFF RADIO FIRST BEFORE REMOVING BATTERY CABLES.IF BATTERY AND CABLES GOOD.CHECK IGNITION POWER FUSES AND ALTERNATOR FUSE.IF ALL LOOK GOOD.YOUR ALTERNATOR COULD BE BAD OR A OPEN IN IGNITION SWITCH COULD BROKE OR LOOSE WIRE IN SWITCH.
Q1. Engine will not start or is hard to start (Cranks OK)A1 -Ignition lock switch faulty-Ignition coil faulty-Power transistor faulty-Spark plugs faulty-Ignition wiring disconnected or broken-Spark plugs faultyQ2,
Engine will not crankA2.
Battery dischargedBattery cables loose, corroded or worn outTransaxle range switch faulty (Vehicle with automatic transaxle only)Fusible link blownStarter motor faultyIgnition switch faultyIgnition lock switch faultyREMEDYCharge or replace batteryRepair or replace cablesAdjust or replace switchReplace fusible linkRepair starter motorReplace ignition switchReplace ignition lock switch
×