I HAVE A SEAT ALTEA 19TDI YESTERDAY WAS WORKING FINE WENT TO USE LATER ON TURNED IGN ON THERE WAS NO GLOWPLUG LIGHT ON DASH TURNED ENGINE OVER WOULD NOT START TRYED AGAIN STILL NO LIGHT ON DASH SAME RESULT ANY HELP ON WHAT CAN BE CAUSING PROBLEM IF GLOW LIGHT ON AND FLASHING WOULD BE HEATERPLUGS

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aqu? este el diagrama

Seat Altea (2005) - fuse box diagram - Auto Genius

https://www.autogenius.info > seat-altea-2005-fuse-box...
Mar 8, 2018 - Seat Altea (2005) - fuse box diagram · Fuses box on the left side of dash panel · Location under steering wheel, on relay carrier · Fuses layout in ...

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IT IS A 10 AMPS NO4 OR 5 I THINK!!DO THE WINDOWS WORK OK?THEY HAVE THE SAME FUE!!

SEAT ALTEA ALT EUROPE 2005 ELECTRICS 93700 ONBOARD SUPPLY CONTROL UNIT... go there,

don t check fue,it is in the book,the fuse list,
but better check on wipermotor,
3 wires,2 big one fine,check if pos and neg arive WITH THE HOOD CLOSED if pos and neg found,change wiper motor,it is disease,

check the main engine fuse in the engine compartment

Hello, Most likely your Glowplug Relay is bad, and it supplies power to the Glowplug Timer which also may be bad.

Just follow the wires that are on the Glowplugs up to the Glowplug timer. Use a Voltmeter and check if the power wire that goes into this Timer has fire when the Ignition is turned to the RUN position. If there is fire going into the Timer from the power Relay, pull off one of the Glowplug wires and ground 1 end of a testlight and put the other end on the Glowplug wire.

The Timer itself will kill the power after a predetermined time based on Temperature. The colder the engine, the longer the Glowplugs stay lit. If you have power reaching the Glowplug, your power Relay is fine. You just have to observe how quick the Timer stays on.

The Glowplugs only have 1 or 2 chances to do their job at the Start-up. They are needed to make a Diesel start cold. Cold meaning at outside AIR temperature, and engine block temperature. There should be clicks under the hood and the lights should flicker in rhythm to the clicks if the Timer is working.

If you find that both the Timer and Power Relay are working, the Glowplugs need to be tested. They come out like sparkplugs. But you test them either on a special machine or use battery jumper cables. To test, hook one battery cable to the Glowplug base, avoiding the thread. Then take the other cable and arc it on the top of the Glowplug.

Caution, you can melt the Glowplug. If you get a bright glow, the Glowplug is good. If the Glowplug is dark or very slow to glow, it is bad. This should be all you need. Would appreciate a note after you fix it.

Hello, A diesel engine depends on the Glowplugs to start when the engine is cold. After the engine is running, it uses compression to continue.

This would mean you have a problem with the Glowplugs and the Glowplug Timer. The Timer is the device which works with the "Ready" light in the dash. The Timer will click off/on and can make the lights dim in sync with the clicks. The Timer is also responsive to temperature change; the colder the outside temperature, the longer the clicks cycle.

You also should pull the glowplugs and individually check them. Usually do 1 Bank at a time so you have 4 to chose from. Take a Battery jumper cable and connect one end to the base of the glowplug without damaging the threads and ground the cable end. Then take the other cable and connect one end to the hot post of the battery.

Touch the top of the Glowplug with the Pos battery jumper and be careful not to melt the Glowplug. When you get a good one it will glow quick and bright. When the glowplug stays dark or takes a long time to glow, it is bad. This is why I recommend doing 4 at a time. It is a matter of comparision. The short time is the real world example of mimicking the Glowplug timer. If you can not heat the Glowplug, the Timer will not either.

Once you get all the Glowplugs working like they should, you can evaluate the Timer. It may need replacing too! If you turn the Key to Run and let the "Ready" light work, the truck should start. If it does not, turn the Key and cycle the Timer 2 or 3 Times. Then try it. By repeated cycling of the Timer, if the truck starts better, it means your Timer is not staying on long enough for the glowplugs to work. Replace the timer.

Keep clean oil in the engine and consider "Flow" products to help the fuel and oil work better in Cold weather.

There is also a TSB 08-18-6. It is about low pressure on the Injection devices. Exhibits hard starting, no start condition.

I hope my solution is very helpful to you. You could give me feedback on the end solution for your problem.

Hello, there are several things as likely to cause this problem, either spark or fuel.

The glowplugs are needed to make a Cold engine start. You can take a testlight to the glowplug wire of several cylinders and it should light when the engine is put to the Run position. The glowplugs get their power from a Coldstart Timer and it may have an additional relay.

The Coldstart Timer is the part which clicks and makes the lights dim when it is cycling. It also controls the dash indicator and makes the dash light work when the glowplugs are ready. The timer changes the amount of time it cycles according to outside and engine temperature. If you have noticed the "Ready" light vary its timing, the timer is working.

Say you have no spark at the glowplug wire, work backwards to the Coldstart timer and see if it is getting power. Power in, none out, bad timer. No power in, work backwards for a Relay or fuse.

Now if you have power at the glowplug, remove several and test them with Battery jumper cables. Put the NEG on the base and touch the POS to the stem. You can melt them if you overdo it. The longer it takes for the glowplug to glow, the worse it is. Once you find a good glower all tests are relative to the good one.

Fuel problem. If the glowplugs test out, check the fuel. Long start times can mean the fuel drained back to the tank and has to be pulled all the way up front. You can unscrew your fuel filter and see if it is topped off or empty. Then you need to test the lines from the fuel filter back.

It is also possible an internal Solenoid in the Injector pump is sticking. A light tap before starting can indicate this problem if it starts better after tapping the pump.

Thats about it. I hope you find my Solution useful.

It sounds like the "Timer" for the glowplugs, but you may want to prime the Fuelfilter to provide a draw for the fuel. One of the problems is you lost the fuel in the lines as soon as the fuelpump was disconnected.

If you installed the fuelpump because of a "NO start" condition it may have been the Glowplug timer all along. You may have taken a wire loose for the Timer or broken a wire. The Timer box needs feedback from the Glowplugs.

Disconnect one of the Glowpug wires and put in a test light to the wire. Observe when you put the engine in RUN position if the Testlight will light up. If the Testlight does not light, you are not getting power to the Glowplugs.

Diesels need Glowplugs only for starting. After that, the compression operates the engine. The Timer for the Glowplugs regulates how long the Glowplugs work each cycle. You may have to test the Glowplugs if they get power but do not work.

Each Glowplug is like a sparkplug. You would need to pull them and connect 12 Volts to each. Use a jumper cable and do not touch the threads. Use power sparingly or you can melt them. But 1 by 1 you can see a difference in a bad or good glowplug by how each gets hot.

It should work fine without any problems
John