The resistor that connects to the coil does it connect to the poss. or neg. side of the coil?

The wiring of an ignition coil is fairly straightforward as there is only two terminals and regardless of whether there is an electronic distributor or the old fashioned contact breakers, in the basic 12 volt ignition system the wire from the ignition switch is connected to the + or Batt terminal of the coil and the single wire from the distributor connected to the - or CB terminal.

That system became quite rare over time as the ballasted system performed much better for little more cost. The primary resistance of the 12 volt coil is around 3 ohms and the ballast type around 1.5 ohms. It is important the correct coil is used.
You mentioned resistor so it is reasonable to assume it is a ballasted system. In this system one of three types of resistor is used - while many used a length of resistance wire integrated into the wiring harness the AC Delco system used a carbon "pill" type resistor mounted directly on the + coil terminal.
The third type is probably the best and is a ceramic unit with resistance wire inside, usually bracketed on the coil bracket or nearby.

The ballasted system uses a low resistance coil. One end of the resistor is supplied from the ignition switch and the other end is connected to the coil + terminal. There is a third wire directly from the starter solenoid also connected to the + terminal so when the ignition key is turned to crank the engine, battery voltage is supplied to the coil bypassing the resistor and producing a much more powerful spark making starting easier.

By 1986 many vehicles had begun to use either integrated distributors (with the amplifier inside) or a discrete amplifier mounted near the coil. The connections to these is fairly intuitive as multiway connectors take care of most of the wiring though the coil wiring remained basically the same on the + side.

The wire that goes to the distributor is the ground side of the coil. The other side is the positive side. Be careful if you plan to connect 12 volts to this terminal on the car, as most cars have a ballast resistor between the 12 volts and the positive of the coil. If you connect 12 volts directly to the coil you may burn out the coil. You are better to use a multimeter to check the coil as that will not damage it.

For coils to burn it indicates either the incorrect voltage coil in use or a dead short through the primary windings or failed resistor in the circuit.
Coils come in either straight 12 volts or 12 volts start but run on 7 volts through a resistor or resistor wire . If that resistor is shorted out the 12 v on the 7 volt windings will burn out the coil . Coils are connected in parallel and never in series as that increases the amp loading on the coil windings . Check the ignition module for the second coil as it may be shorting out internally.

Yes the battery can be effected (drain) but in any kind of weather, unless you turn the radio off when you turn the engine off. The power wire in either application is connected directly to the battery as opposed to being connected to the ACC terminal which will be switched on and off with the ignition. You should connect the power wire (should be RED in color) from the radio plug to the terminal (marked "acc") on your fuse box located somewhere under your dash board. It sounds as though it's possible that the RED power wire and the YELLOW "Memory" wire have been switched, the power wire should be switched with the ignition and the Memory wire should be connected directly to a Battery terminal (marked as Batt also on the fuse box) or to the battery itself. All of these wires should be labeled with a small tab indicating there connection. Example Red wire marked (+ poss power), Black wire (- Neg Ground) Yellow wire (Memory) and usually 2 Green, 2Grey, 2 Blue, 2Purple as for the Speakers Poss. & Neg. respectively.

The negative side of the coil goes to ground. The positive side goes to the ballast resistor. The other side of the ballast resistor connects to the ignition switch. More information might be had on manualsonline.com.

Use a test light and check to see if there is battery voltage present at the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position if no battery voltage is present at the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position then there is a power supply or wiring problem to the ignition coil, and if there is battery voltage at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then with the test light on the "Neg" (-) or negative side of the ignition coil crank the engine over. The test light should flash or pulse indicating that there is a dwell signal to the ignition coil, and if there is battery voltage to the "Pos" side of the ignition coil and there is a dwell signal to the "Neg" side of the ignition coil, and there is still no spark from the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If there is battery voltage to the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, and there is no dwell signal to the "Neg" side of the ignition coil, then the Ignition module, or the pick-up coil/stator would be the most likely cause of the problem.

Check to see if that ignition system actually used an ignition module on the side of the distributor, and if the distributor does have an ignition module mounted on the side of it, then it is most likely faulty and those modules were prone to failure from excessive engine heat. Also, remove the distributor cap and inspect the connector from the pick-up coil/stator where the ignition module connects to it, and if the connector is dark or burnt looking then also replace the pick-up coil/stator or the entire distributor. You might need a Ford ignition module wrench to remove the ignition module from the side of the distributor and most auto part stores will have one for only a few dollars.

Here are some images to assist you and notice the white connector on the ignition pick-up coil/stator and when that connector turns dark or burnt looking then it is faulty

The indicator has a very low draw so you can put it anywhere. It would be best to wire it into the ignition switch. Power to it will not say on and will only come on when the switch is turned on.

Very likely the points are bad.

if you have replaced the points and capacitor and the coil, then the only other components are the wires and the resistor.

It is simple to troubleshoot if you have a volt meter.

With the ignition on, there should be 12 volts across the primary side of the coil (the small connections).

Do not attempt to measure the secondary side of the coil (the big connection on the top) it will blow out your meter.

If there is no voltage on the primary side of the coil, it is a bad resistor or a broken wire.

This page has a diagram of an automobile ignition circuit that is similar to the one in your car.
Click Here

Good Luck!

look at battery and idenify neg and poss posts if the cabel from neg post is connected to the starter solenoid then it is poss earth no way can both be connected to ground it would cause a dead short

most likely blower motor, or poss connection to motor. however, these vehicles are common for blower resistors as well and would not be a bad idea to replace at all.. i dont think they are that much $$.